Shopsmith Forums

"Anyone have any good ideas on the best way to drill out pen blanks? SS drill press or horizontal configuration? Jigs anyone has come up with to hold the blanks firmly in place ?"

PSI has a pen blank cutting system, basically it cuts a round blank, and drills the hole at the same time. It looks very promising as it should have a perfectly concentric hole and outer diameter. I haven't tried it yet, but I will be getting one soon. Has anyone used this device?

major_bob wrote:I guess that expands my question a bit. Should I be considering putting the blank into a chuck and spinning into a stationary bit on the tail stock ?
I'm a novice, but seems like a lot of trouble to drill a hole

Do not chuck them and spin them onto a tail stock mounted bit. Many blanks are not symmetrical. IMHO, it is too time consuming to mount each one in a lathe to drill the hole.

I have used both Horizontal boring and a Pen vise in drill press mode. The only reason I favor horizontal boring mode is to keep change-over time to a minimum. I used the table height adjustment and fixed the miter gauge in the track to position the pen blank. However, because of the taper on the back face of the miter gauge it's difficult to clamp the blank to the miter gauge fence. Too much clamping force over stresses the blank. I have had it crack and collapse as the hole is drilled through the blank. The last 4 pens I made, I drilled in Horizontal mode.

I have a pen blank drilling vise. I paid $50 for it at Woodcraft and frankly I hate it. General Products has what looks like a good one but it's in that same price range. There are many inexpensive ways to make one from using a couple of boards and a hinge to modifying a screw clamp.

major_bob wrote:I guess that expands my question a bit. Should I be considering putting the blank into a chuck and spinning into a stationary bit on the tail stock ?
I'm a novice, but seems like a lot of trouble to drill a hole

Do not chuck them and spin them onto a tail stock mounted bit. Many blanks are not symmetrical. IMHO, it is too time consuming to mount each one in a lathe to drill the hole.

I have used both Horizontal boring and a Pen vise in drill press mode. The only reason I favor horizontal boring mode is to keep change-over time to a minimum. I used the table height adjustment and fixed the miter gauge in the track to position the pen blank. However, because of the taper on the back face of the miter gauge it's difficult to clamp the blank to the miter gauge fence. Too much clamping force over stresses the blank. I have had it crack and collapse as the hole is drilled through the blank. The last 4 pens I made, I drilled in Horizontal mode.

I have a pen blank drilling vise. I paid $50 for it at Woodcraft and frankly I hate it. General Products has what looks like a good one but it's in that same price range. There are many inexpensive ways to make one from using a couple of boards and a hinge to modifying a screw clamp.

I use a drilling jig that is not much different from ideas seen here. I would suggest additional thoughts. After measuring holes in blanks and the tubes to be inserted I came to the realization that tubes and drill bits are not always sized the same. I use care to buy drill bits for pen blank drilling from the same vendor as the tubes. I also double check the measurements periodically to be certain I am getting the right diameter holes. While drilling it is important to back out the bit frequently in order to displace loose sawdust, this will insure more evenly drilled holes and reduce both the frequency of loose or ill fitting tubes and the number of broken blanks. I keep a brass brush handy to brush drilling residue from the bit each time it is removed from the hole. Slow and easy is the best policy. In addition may I suggest that an insertion tool be used that allows the tubes to be turned as they are inserted into the blanks. Better spreading the adhesive makes for better adhesion. I do also as suggested previously and use emery cloth to rough up the brass tubes prior to insertion, While doing so I wear rubber gloves to keep finger oil from the outside of the tubes. About the insertion tools. I use one from PSI. I also find it important to keep a small flat bade screw driver handy to separate the insertion tool from the brass tube after inserting. Yeah I know I am picky. On the other hand I hate doing anything twice. Wow I guess I beat that to death. Sorry, good luck with your pen turning. I truly enjoy turning pens. Especially the smile every time I give one away. fjimp

Jim,

Each and every step, method, etc. that you pointed out comes from experience, both good and bad, that you learned from making your pens! By taking these steps, each and every time, you have insured yourself a high degree of success!

Pointing out these steps are an immense value to the Forum, and hopefully, others will value the information, saving themselves a lot of grief down the road.

Anyone that has done any amount of turning knows that at any stage something could go wrong. Most of the time, it occurs when one is almost finished with a project.

By taking the time to do the steps that you mentioned, you eliminate many of the possible problems that could occur!:)

Good Job!

FlashbacPT
John

I just wanted to add an update to the thread. I realise that this may grate on Cincinatti10, but...

I just drilled a couple sets of blanks using my new Barracuda2 chuck and a drill chuck on a lathe arbor in the tail-stock. It worked GREAT. The holes were dead-center in the blanks, and setup / switchover time from drilling to turning was seconds. The blanks were different sizes (one was 3/4 x 3/4" and the other was about 7/8 x 7/8") and I didn't have to make any adjustments to anything in order to keep the drill centered on the blank, it just works... The only thing I'd recommend if someone else wants to try this method is, since the drill bit is NOT turning, it is not PULLING the shavings out of the hole, you must back your blank out often to clean the flutes out.

Tom

You can reverse the setup and install the chuck on the tailstock. It would be easier then to drill a little and back the drill bit out.

Mark

mbcabinetmaker wrote:Tom

You can reverse the setup and install the chuck on the tailstock. It would be easier then to drill a little and back the drill bit out.

Mark

Mark, I might be able to do that in the future, but not yet... I ordered a lathe arbor from ShopSmith, but it was backordered, so as of yet, I can not mount anything that accepts a 5/8" round shaft on the tail-stock. I have to admit, I got "antsy", and went to Rockler yesterday and purchased a drill chuck with a MT2 shaft so I could drill. As I am right now, I can put a drill chuck on the tail stock, but I have no method of mounting my Barracuda2 chuck on the tail stock until I get the Lathe Arbor in from ShopSmith. That being said, your suggestion does make sense and I will try that once I receive my SS Lathe Arbor.

Tom,

Have you checked with the folks at Penn State Industries? Then have a lot of the chucks and adapters for the Mark V. Generally speaking they are my number one source for turning accessories not available from Shopsmith. fjimp

fjimp wrote:Tom,

Have you checked with the folks at Penn State Industries? Then have a lot of the chucks and adapters for the Mark V. Generally speaking they are my number one source for turning accessories not available from Shopsmith. fjimp

Jim, yes I do check out PSI regularly, and I did get my Barracuda2 chuck and the adaptor to fit it to the Mk-V from them. This was just a matter of impatience... PSI is about 10 days from order to delivery and Rockler was 1-1/2 miles down the road...