Shopsmith Forums

mickyd wrote:Roll pin on the left, spring pin on the right. Most likely, you have a spring pin. (torsion springs be different...like in mousetraps, garage door opener assists, ER10 trunnion stop lever spring......I know you know that....must be a case of 'sometheimer's' disease ).
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But But But they BOTH use torsion to 'do their thing'!:D

Actually they both are 'springs', and both are 'rolled', hence the confusion on my part!

No I cannot think of a more concise way to describe/differentiate them. other than good and better or older and newer.

So there are flat(leaf/wire) springs, coiled(extension/compression/'torsion') springs, plate(flat/domed) springs and now 'squeeze' springs.

BTW Whatza a 'slinky'?

Any others?;)

[quote="JPG40504"]But But But they BOTH use torsion to 'do their thing'!:D

Actually they both are 'springs', and both are 'rolled', hence the confusion on my part!

No I cannot think of a more concise way to describe/differentiate them. other than good and better or older and newer.

So there are flat(leaf/wire) springs, coiled(extension/compression/'torsion') springs, plate(flat/domed) springs and now 'squeeze' springs.

BTW Whatza a 'slinky'?

Any others?]
Your engineering logic is in exactly the right place but what they call stuff vs. logic are independent of each other..... Just investigate the words bolt vs. screw.

My lingo is the most widely accepted "industry" terms. Roll pin came from the founding company Spirol and it is now officially designated a "spiral coiled spring pin".

I guess no one has bothered trying to come up with a unique name for a spring pin on the right in the above photo that is just shy of one complete coil. Maybe they should call them "circumferential spring pin"????

And a slinky..........it's called "boring"!!:D

Don't know if a sheet metal screw would work or not. Maybe it would get enough bite without expanding the spring pin too much.

Drilling through SPRING PIN worked!!!

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And after punching through 'new' hole!:)

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Now for another question????????

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It seems to me that the 'top' caster set has the cam shaft reversed right to left. (or the same for the bottom one)(they should be left right pair)

Opinions PLEASE!!!

Left and right are mirror images of each other. Here's mine. I combined them into this one photo.
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If this is how you got the unit, it would have had one lift pedal on the front of the unit and the other in the back (in err).

p.s Did you drill through the other side of the casting to give yourself a through hole or did you leave the original blind hole?

mickyd wrote:Left and right are mirror images of each other. Here's mine. I combined them into this one photo.
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If this is how you got the unit, it would have had one lift pedal on the front of the unit and the other in the back (in err).

We agree! I did not notice the pedal front/rear flip. I believe it had two identical assemblies. Either one was reassembled in error, or somebody had two sets and got them mixed up, or somebody really wanted them that way. Obviously the one with the blind spring pin bore was not disassembled b4.

Thank you for verifying my 'conclusion'.

Subject change: Electrolysis. I am de rusting the leg pair(simultaneously), but it is taking a long time. I 'paint stripped/derusted' my anodes by running it in reverse(alternatively), and am suspicious my 'solution' is compromised by being contaminated. It is drawing about 10A and is paint stripping the legs nicely, but as I said, it seems a bit slow to me.

Comments?

mickyd wrote:p.s Did you drill through the other side of the casting to give yourself a through hole or did you leave the original blind hole?

I drilled through the spring pin from the 'open' side. I then flipped it and enlarged the new bore to the size of the original bore.

The pix above(below the happy dance) is the NEWLY drilled hole. The pix shows the former blind end of the pin.

JPG40504 wrote:We agree! I did not notice the pedal front/rear flip. I believe it had two identical assemblies. Either one was reassembled in error, or somebody had two sets and got them mixed up, or somebody really wanted them that way. Obviously the one with the blind spring pin bore was not disassembled b4.

Thank you for verifying my 'conclusion'.

Subject change: Electrolysis. I am de rusting the leg pair(simultaneously), but it is taking a long time. I 'paint stripped/derusted' my anodes by running it in reverse(alternatively), and am suspicious my 'solution' is compromised by being contaminated. It is drawing about 10A and is paint stripping the legs nicely, but as I said, it seems a bit slow to me.

Comments?

24 hours was always my benchmark. Your solution hasn't lost it's ability to pass electricity.

The legs have a lot of surface area and mine took a couple days, doing one at a time. As I recall, amperage stayed quite high.....8amp if memory serves me right.

What are you using for anodes, sheet metal?

mickyd wrote:24 hours was always my benchmark. Your solution hasn't lost it's ability to pass electricity.

The legs have a lot of surface area and mine took a couple days, doing one at a time. As I recall, amperage stayed quite high.....8amp if memory serves me right.

What are you using for anodes, sheet metal?

5"x15" x 4(count) 1/8" landscaping 'bar stock'. It was rusted and painted. That paint was very reluctant to jump off it. I am sure it was baked on(maybe powder coated.

The anode is suspended across the middle of a 18 gal tote(plastic storage) and the two legs are resting against the sides of the 'container'. I spent a day getting the anodes prepped(rust/paint stripped) but was not satisfied with the result.

Currently I have flipped the legs and am cleaning up the outer
(less rusted) side.

I noticed the 'charger' is cycling on and off so it must have some current limiting/time interruption function interfering with my intent. I did not know it did that. FWIW, The voltage drops to about 9V and the current is almost 10A. This is NOT a typical operation point for a 12v battery charger. I have to assume it has some source resistance that is decreasing the voltage. That would be consistent with a need to 'trickle' charge after battery gets fully charged, but the values do not make sense. There is something 'clicking' on/off and I assume it is heat triggered. Will investigate after legs are 'done'.

If ya want, I can post a pix of setup.