Shopsmith Forums

OK thanks for all the ideas and suggestions, the sheaves are now lubed , but the speedchanger is still stiff, it also makes a grating noise near slow and another as it gets to high speed, (i think the pork chop or something is rubbing on the sheave at high speed, I rememebr seeing on a sawdust session that this may happen if the high speed isnt adjusted correctly?)

the mystery of the quill has been sorted, there was a burr, on the edge of the groove that had been raised and a couple of strokes with a file smoothed it and now the quill retracts and the spring seems good and strong.

the poly V belt seems a little tight says in the manual that soft pressure should deflect it 1/4 inch well this is way tighter, so will see to that, off now to look at the sawdust session video on the speedchanger - i have a feeling that there is crud in there, or that the sheaves havent had time for the lube to work (using portuguese 3 in 1 oil (tres en um) which took a while to locate. its weird because form slow it is difficult and when you get about halfway it is easier, anyone have any ideas?

once again Msany Thanks for the helpful advice, and the discussion on 30 wt versus 10 wt oil, I am trying light oil first as I think it needs to be less viscous so that it can get to where it needs to be , and I may try 30 wt later.

have a good evening everyone
regards from the Azores
nath

tunznath wrote:OK thanks for all the ideas and suggestions, the sheaves are now lubed , but the speedchanger is still stiff, it also makes a grating noise near slow and another as it gets to high speed, (i think the pork chop or something is rubbing on the sheave at high speed, I rememebr seeing on a sawdust session that this may happen if the high speed isnt adjusted correctly?)

the mystery of the quill has been sorted, there was a burr, on the edge of the groove that had been raised and a couple of strokes with a file smoothed it and now the quill retracts and the spring seems good and strong.

the poly V belt seems a little tight says in the manual that soft pressure should deflect it 1/4 inch well this is way tighter, so will see to that, off now to look at the sawdust session video on the speedchanger - i have a feeling that there is crud in there, or that the sheaves havent had time for the lube to work (using portuguese 3 in 1 oil (tres en um) which took a while to locate. its weird because form slow it is difficult and when you get about halfway it is easier, anyone have any ideas?

once again Msany Thanks for the helpful advice, and the discussion on 30 wt versus 10 wt oil, I am trying light oil first as I think it needs to be less viscous so that it can get to where it needs to be , and I may try 30 wt later.

have a good evening everyone
regards from the Azores
nath

I recommend removal of the speed changer so that you can remove the control sheave completely from its shaft. You can than remove all gunk from the shaft, key/keyway and sheave. It should move in and out quite freely! I do not understand why #30 is even on the table? It really needs to be light weight oil!

This will also allow you to closely examine the speed changer to cure any ills it may have. This is more effort now, but will pay off in longer term trouble free operation later. The 'grating' sound is probably caused by mashed gear teeth of the porkchop. The high speed 'sound' is much more alarming than 'grating'.

OK just found a inch set of allen wrenches for sale here (everything is metric here) so now can continue, cant find any inch wrenches, so will just use an adjustable, will update once done.

thanks again to all
nath

ok removed the speedchanger, and the floating sheave cleaned the floating sheave, The speedchanger was the cause of the problem, right at the back of the worm gear where slow speed is engaged) was impacted sawdust and really hard grease, almost like beeswax, so i dont think I am going to put toilet bowl wax on it - sorry Beeg;)

I also think that the Bill mayo fix for the rollpin is a brilliant idea, it seems that the tolerance on the fork is a bit sloppy and this allows the worm gear to move left and right in the threads of the pork chop, , the holes that the roll pin fits into on the fork are a bit also sloppy and this allows that to happen, with the result that the worm gear moves left and right and then it gets hard to turn and then the fork bends, and the whole process just compunds - any thoughts on this?

oh by the way JPG40504, with the cap screw and the lock washer and nut is there a problem with the speedchanger touching the floating sheave?

just checked my supply of capscrews left over from a marine diesel engine, and I dont have one that will fit, right length but too short, how about a stainless steel machine screw or bolt? - not that I have the right one handy either, but I think I would be able to find one a lot easier here - also whats the metric equivalent for a #10 capscrew?

thanks all for the help, after my coffee, i am back to reassembly

will do the capscrew fix another time

Hi,

Send me a PM. I have about 50 pcs of #10-24 screws that have just the right length to have the threads where you need them (for your star washer and nylock nut), and plain-shaft where you want the porkchop to rotate on the screw.

beeg wrote: Have ya lubed the pork chop yet. I use bees wax from a toilet bowl ring.

Hi,

Might want to re-think bee's wax if you have a cold shop... See this posting for what I learned:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=5036

Ed

tunznath wrote:ok removed the speedchanger, and the floating sheave cleaned the floating sheave, The speedchanger was the cause of the problem, right at the back of the worm gear where slow speed is engaged) was impacted sawdust and really hard grease, almost like beeswax, so i dont think I am going to put toilet bowl wax on it - sorry Beeg]is there a problem with the speedchanger touching the floating sheave?
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just checked my supply of capscrews left over from a marine diesel engine, and I dont have one that will fit, right length but too short, how about a stainless steel machine screw or bolt? - not that I have the right one handy either, but I think I would be able to find one a lot easier here - also whats the metric equivalent for a #10 capscrew?

thanks all for the help, after my coffee, i am back to reassembly

will do the capscrew fix another time

No interference if high speed adjustment done properly.

Try 3/16-24 cap screw!


Although the softness of the arms is a factor, IMHO the bending is caused by too aggressively changing speed to a lower setting(or when parts not revolving).