Page 3 of 3

Posted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 6:41 pm
by sssteve
The key on the idler shaft seems to be fine - there is really no movement of the control sheave on the shaft, and the control sheave slides freely. I did mildly file and polish the sides of the sheave vanes that were making contact. Also was able to seat the loop bearing back into the control sheave. Then assembled again and turned the shopsmith on. I was able to change the speed, but when I got to the slowest speed and then started increasing the speed, the speed was not increasing. I turned the switch off and found that the sheaves on the idler shaft were again sticking together. I broke the control sheave free and then turned the switch on. I can run the shopsmith and vary the speed as long as I do not slow it to the slowest speed. I think I can use it for now and may decide to replace the control sheave or the idler shaft assembly in the future. Thanks so much for the advice and guidance offered.

Posted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 7:20 pm
by dusty
I have not experienced this myself but Bill Mayo has reported that he often must hand select sheaves to get a pair that do not interfere with one another. I say this because you said you might buy replacement sheaves. Doing so might not be a guaranteed solution.

If the loop comes out again, you can still operate and have some speed control so long as you remain in the middle to upper speeds. The spring tension on the drive sheave working in conjunction with the friction/pressure applied by the belts will move the sheaves in and out.

If you dial down to low speed the sheaves may again bind more than can be overcome in this cripple mode.