Newly acquired 510 - Control Sheave not moving

[sssteve]

I purchased a Mark V 510 this past weekend which was manufactured in 1988. I am new to Shopsmith – had not seen one before seeing this one listed on craigslist and then doing some research. It was used off and on for the first 10 to 12 years, but seems to not have been used much at all the last 10 years. It was stored in a garage and looks to be in decent shape. Seems to have most, if not all, of the accessories, and includes a jointer, band saw, belt sander, planer, and dust collector. I was able to get all of this for $400 knowing that the speed changer was not working properly at fast speed.

The drive operates fine at slow to medium speed, but then stops when trying to increase to faster speed. I believe that this is due to a lack of lubricating or no attention of the last 10 years. The Floating Sheave was not moving and I was able to free it up by oiling and leaving overnight. Done the same with the Control Sheave, but still frozen.



I have removed the drive belt and ready to proceed to moving the Idler Shaft if I must, but would like to find out if anyone has any tips on freeing up the Control Sheave without removing the shaft. I was hoping to get the sheaves working properly and then do some cleaning up and lubing on the unit. Any advice would be appreciated.

[beeg]

Why knot just clean and lube it up first? That just might take care of your control sheave.

[dusty]

I purchased a Mark V 510 this past weekend which was manufactured in 1988. I am new to Shopsmith &#8211]http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/attachm ... 1291747171[/URL]

I have removed the drive belt and ready to proceed to moving the Idler Shaft if I must, but would like to find out if anyone has any tips on freeing up the Control Sheave without removing the shaft. I was hoping to get the sheaves working properly and then do some cleaning up and lubing on the unit. Any advice would be appreciated.

If I had to deal with your problem right now, I would drop the motor pan by removing the five screws and disconnecting the power wires . With this done, the unit can go into the vertical mode (drill press) leaving the motor pan setting on the bench tubes.

In this position you can see and clean the headstock much easier. I would then lubricate the control sheave and let it soak. With the drive belt disconnected, the control sheave should move back and forth on the shaft with little or NO resistance.

PS: The control loop (the wire spring) also needs to be disconnected to free the control sheave for this test. Your attached image clearly shows that it is not. This can be done only with the speed control set at high speed. It appears to be at high speed in your image.

[henecle]

I wondered how long it would take for the guy who beat me to that deal to surface . Best advice is to get a copies of the manuals from SS and pull maintenance and alignment services on everything you got before using it. Also, read through PTWFE. This forum is a great source of info and assistance.

[bestdust]

If it was my machine I would strip out the intermediate shaft and dissasemble all the parts on it. Lube it up and make sure it moves easily, replace the drive belt with a link belt and grease that poor speed control worm gear and porkchop. It looks to me like it has never had any lube on it or there should be dried grease and dirt/sawdust crudded up on it. This is what I did with the 1981 vintage machine that I just purchased and it works beautifully now. Also lube the motor sheave and work it in and out a few times to spread the oil. There is a very good video on here somewhere about how to recondition a headstock but I can't seem to locate it right now.

[sssteve]

I have decided to go ahead and disasemble, clean and lube things well at this point. Is 3-in-1 oil ok for the lubing on this? Please provide reference/location to recondition video if you can find it.

Thanks,
Steve

[dusty]

There are two threads here on the forum, one by JPG and the other by Micky that provide a lot of very valuable information and many good photos that show what needs to be done and what a poorly cared for unit can become.

In addition to that, there are several Sawdust Sessions that provide a lot of good information. Of special note are the last four sessions (#21 thru#24).

[JPG]

There are two threads here on the forum, one by JPG and the other by Micky that provide a lot of very valuable information and many good photos that show what needs to be done and what a poorly cared for unit can become.

In addition to that, there are several Sawdust Sessions that provide a lot of good information. Of special note are the last four sessions (#21 thru#24).

Point him to your 'index' Mike.

[bestdust]

Looks like you already got your answer. The sawdust sessions are very good at explaining the guts of the machine and how to dissasemble/reassemble them. Good luck, they are not that challenging if you have a bit of mechanical ability. Just remember to never overwrench the locking bolt on the eccentric belt adjuster as those wings in the aluminum casting will break very easily. Even when rusted/coroded these machines should come apart easily without a lot of heavy pounding. I use a good Volvo penetrating oil spray and let it work for a while but any good one will do the trick.

[mickyd]

Point him to your 'index' Mike.

There is still so much to add to it...