Zero clearance plates

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damagi
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Post by damagi »

dusty wrote:I've done a couple using 1/2" MDF and I used the router in a table to cut away unwanted material on the bottom. This worked fairly well. It seems like a perfect job for the OPR.

[ATTACH]12075[/ATTACH]
oh, you mean the OPR that finally just arrived after 2 months...what a great idea :) just have to set it up
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thomas2938
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o Clearance insert

Post by thomas2938 »

How did you solve the problem with lengthening the slot for the riving knife?
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

thomas2938 wrote:How did you solve the problem with lengthening the slot for the riving knife?
After lowering the table to make the blade slot, I simply flip the ZCI over and around, set it down on the blade, put the rip fence in place and cut it a little bit farther.

If I am not cutting fine wood or laminates, I continue to use the ZCI even after the slot has been widened. In other words, I have a sloppy ZCI. Its primary purpose is to close the gap so that small pieces do not get down between the blade and table top.
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

mbcabinetmaker wrote:Dusty the inserts are pretty much universal on all of my 510's and 520's. The thickness may need to be tweaked but other than that I do no see a problem.

As to the cut out all I did was lower the blade and very slowly tighten the table lock. It moved just a bit but with the blade still running It will stretch the cut out to the correct size.
I used to use paper shims to level the inserts with the table. I have switched to Gorilla Duct Tape. It is about the right thickness, adheres extremely well and is durable.
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stephen_a._draper
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Post by stephen_a._draper »

I make my inserts using 1/4" hardboard with formica glued on top. It is exactly even with the tabletop with no shims on my Model 500.
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Gene Howe
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Post by Gene Howe »

My ZCI is mdf and walnut. The center strip of walnut is replaceable. To change it out, I just need to make the center strip. I keep a few in reserve.
See it here.
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Gene

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