Shopsmith Forums

I would think that a small dab of Loctite on the threads of any/all set screws would alleviate any concern over them loosening during normal operation.

JPG40504 wrote:We do not know how the tailstock center was being used(if indeed it was) since the project was to turn a chalice.

I would not attempt to turn one without a chuck(not a spur center etc.). I doubt the 'victim' had one!

chucks for wood lathes (and bowl gouges too) are realatively new products that have only been around since the eighties.

Dalton, today I looked at the set screws in a greenie and in a model 510. The set screws in the greenie have a smooth end, like the one you posted a picture of. The 510 has set screws with "teeth" on the end that appear like they would bite into the way tubes and therefore hold tighter.

ddvann79 wrote:
Did I also hear someone say the set screws were visible from the top of the tubes?

Yes, on my fairly late-model 510, the way-tube setscrews at the pivot/tailstock end can be accessed from the top.

JPG40504 wrote:The damning detail was that Yuba Power Products (or the salesperson who sold it to his wife) extolled the safety of the shopsmith and assured her it was 'safe'. Had that not been the case I do not think the case would have been decided as it was. I believe the 'guilt' lay in the assertion of its being safe and the inadequate performance of assuring that degree of safety.

A few years ago, when I attended one of the last of the SS Traveling Acadamies, I found it eyebrow raising that the teacher was strongly proclaiming the inherent safety in lathe work and how it was all but impossible to be injured doing it. How things would just fall peacefully to the floor, etc.

At the time, I thought that was an invitation for a lawsuit.

Kinda double funny, since my particular group was the one that sent a block of wood flying across the room when it came off the chuck, and launched a chisel on another occasion. Neither fell peacefully to the floor. In fact, I think that block of wood wizzed right by the instructers head.

One has to be carefull when bragging to a customer. And really, one should be careful about that bragging. Caveat emptor, certainly. But caveat venditor as well.

Falling peacefully to the floor after the third ricochet does not count...


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This is some good information. I thought the footnotes from the "chalice" case that noted the advertising literature, extolling the virtues of it's safety was a bit braggadocios. But I guess we're looking back at it from our current vantage point.

What does everyone think about the base tubes being held in place only by the tube lock bars? I'm not saying it's inadequate, I'm just curious. The unit is quite sturdy and I can't torque the legs around so they have to be doing the job.

I'm thinking about tapping some new set screw holes from the top of the way tube tie bar and base arm. At a minimum, I think replacing the old set screws with the new serrated ones is the cautious approach and maybe a good idea, especially if my son will be working with this machine one day. Funny how it doesn't matter so much when it comes to my own safety but thinking of the boy's safety really changes my perspective.

ddvann79 wrote:Funny how it doesn't matter so much when it comes to my own safety but thinking of the boy's safety really changes my perspective.

Aint that the truth! Doubly so, since my twirp watches me and mimicks me. This "setting a good example" stuff is exhausting!

As for the base tubes being held by the lock bar, I've no problem with this. But I do have mine set up so that when I drop it in place, it's in position. I'm not adjusting the height with the lock bar. I did not loc-tite it, but I could easily enough.

I would not go with a serrated foot because damage to the tubes will tear up the casting they slide into, and create bind problems. Nor would I drill the tubes for perfect positioning, because I'd invariably get it wrong, and because pushing things through the holes would prevent seating and locking of the threaded parts.

If I were to start worrying about the handle vibrating loose, I'd be far more inclined to clamp a vice grip on it, in order to prevent rotation.

Went out to check the set screws on my Goldie's way tubes, and picked up a Greenie tie rod of unknown history (other than I got it on e-bay). It had cup setscrews(the kind that will bite in a 'continuous' circular pattern).

Moving on to my Goldie, a startling discovery was made. NO SETSCREWS in the tie bar! NO MARKS on the tubes where they should have been.

Needless to say I have never done the extensive alignment that I have described on my 510 for the tubes. I was intending to do that when the Goldie gets torn down for refurb.

FWIW I would file a small flat on the tubes so that the burring caused by the set screws(cup or serrated cup) would not interfere with later removal of the tubes or score the bore of the castings as they are removed.

JPG40504 wrote:...Moving on to my Goldie, a startling discovery was made. NO SETSCREWS in the tie bar! NO MARKS on the tubes where they should have been...

Wow. Factory oversight?

JPG40504 wrote:...FWIW I would file a small flat on the tubes so that the burring caused by the set screws(cup or serrated cup) would not interfere with later removal of the tubes or score the bore of the castings as they are removed.

Not a bad idea. I would be concerned the screw might miss the flat. My goldie had cup point set screws for tie bar but regular blunt setscrews for the base arm. Those points really bit into the steel of the way tubes. Someone cranked down on them.