Shopsmith Forums

Probably a good idea. I learned to work with long needle nose pliers and a screwdrivery pretty quickly.

mgbbob wrote:Probably a good idea. I learned to work with long needle nose pliers and a screwdrivery pretty quickly.

Tip #3 . . . . If you must insert hand into that hole, make sure the SS is not plugged in!:eek:

That is the best tip! Move to the head of the class.

Thanks guys

OK I've removed the porkshop assy and still with a better grip am unable to slide the control sheave out to release that half of the belt tension. Still stuck tightly too.

Soaking/spraying a breakfree solution.... I assume the oil holes are where this should be centered, perhaps on the control sheave spraying the end near the control pin/loop and bearing?

Please clarify the breakfree locations, also is there a set of products that I should look for? I just don't want to use the wrong type of chemical and screw something else up...

As for being timid, no, I figure I'm getting dirty so lets jump in... I just want to fix it so I can get SWMBO off my back and I can begin cutting wood again.

Seriously I bought this used 7 or so years ago... for the last 4-5 years it's sat collecting dust as the garage turned into a warehouse for storing family members crud. Now that I've cleared most of that out, rebuilt my lighting system I'm ready for my shop projects to begin again... What I can say is it helped me build an awesome pine wood derby track and sets of cars. I oiled it with 3 in one and the day after I oiled it last I bought the zoom oil. Then the storage wars began....

So tonight I'll go over today's recommendations and read the other thread end to end a couple of times...

John

jtrainer wrote:Thanks guys

OK I've removed the porkshop assy and still with a better grip am unable to slide the control sheave out to release that half of the belt tension. Still stuck tightly too.

Soaking/spraying a breakfree solution.... I assume the oil holes are where this should be centered, perhaps on the control sheave spraying the end near the control pin/loop and bearing?

Please clarify the breakfree locations, also is there a set of products that I should look for? I just don't want to use the wrong type of chemical and screw something else up...

As for being timid, no, I figure I'm getting dirty so lets jump in... I just want to fix it so I can get SWMBO off my back and I can begin cutting wood again.

Seriously I bought this used 7 or so years ago... for the last 4-5 years it's sat collecting dust as the garage turned into a warehouse for storing family members crud. Now that I've cleared most of that out, rebuilt my lighting system I'm ready for my shop projects to begin again... What I can say is it helped me build an awesome pine wood derby track and sets of cars. I oiled it with 3 in one and the day after I oiled it last I bought the zoom oil. Then the storage wars began....

So tonight I'll go over today's recommendations and read the other thread end to end a couple of times...

John

The terminology used in the other thread is somewhat ambiguous and not consistent with use on this thread(I have learned to be more specific and less ambiguous]BTW[/B] it might be easier for you to remove the motor shaft spring with the motor/pan still in the headstock, but we have not yet determined that is necessary. It is placed back into the headstock quite easily.


All g
this is 'food' for thought. Let us know what course you want to take.

A couple of pix first though!

If you have two people the lower sheeve spring is easy to remove. I alsothink you will need to pull the upper sheeve out to free it up. Once I was able to get mine to move I worked a couple of hours to make sure it was really moving free back and forth. It is not really as bad as it sounds. The trick is getting the speed control back in time but that is covered in one of Nick's videos.

I also pulled the motor and pan. My wiring was good but it give you the chance to clean things up a bit. I found the anti-rattle spring in the bottom.

If you only have one person I used a couple of bar clamps to compress the spring. It worked great. I tried the intertube method and didn't have much luck. I did use the piece of 1x2 with a hole and then a bar across the bottom. A bit tricky by myself but once I had it clamped it was safe.

mgbbob wrote:If you only have one person I used a couple of bar clamps to compress the spring. It worked great. I tried the intertube method and didn't have much luck. I did use the piece of 1x2 with a hole and then a bar across the bottom. A bit tricky by myself but once I had it clamped it was safe.

I am still hoping spring removal will be avoided.

Well if the spring removal is needed, I have a harbor freight 1 block away (5 min on my bike) so clamps or ratchet tie downs may come in handy.

Here is the current belt position on the motor and fan sheaves.
[ATTACH]16201[/ATTACH]

Another pic from under the motor of the same Motor/Fan sheaves.
[ATTACH]16202[/ATTACH]

Current position of the belt on the control/idler sheaves.
[ATTACH]16203[/ATTACH]

I have 2 more pictures for the next post....

Ok here is a shot of the belt relaxed as it sits today. The far side is against the way tube.
[ATTACH]16204[/ATTACH]

Same shot but this time my thumb is attempting to push on the belt to show how much it deflects.
[ATTACH]16205[/ATTACH]

Finally a shot of my power switch from the inside. No matter how fotog crazy I get with settings, I'm having a hard time shooting through the opening and getting a clear sharp image. Sorry.
[ATTACH]16206[/ATTACH]

John