Porkchop Control Clip and Roll Pin

[jtrainer]

So the Speed Control Retaining Clip and Roll Pin came off of my control Sheave. The clip was spread out and found under the motor. I'd love to bend it back closed and put back on but I read that this may be a sing of the control sheave having a wear issue. I've been unable to locate a thread that suggest how to reinstall said Retaining Clip and Roll Pin.

Any suggestions so I can get this old girl running and the wife off my arse for not using it?

Looks like the Retaining Clip is #111 in the exploded view.


[ATTACH]16110[/ATTACH]

[wa2crk]

Jtrainer;
See the hole? It is the spot where you drop in some lightweight oil to lubricate the sheave shaft. Try to rotate the small shaft where the clip and roll pin go. If it is hard to turn then the bearing in the end of the control sheave may be bad. The reason that the clip comes off is that too much pressure is put on the clip when the control arm pulls the control sheave along the shaft. There is a person on E Bay that repairs these items. The center bearing is held in place when the shaft is peaned over during the manufacturing process and is not an easy replacement.
Please post your location, City and state, there may be someone close to you that can give some help in person.
Lubricating the shafts where the sheaves move along the length of the shaft is VERY inportant in these machines to prevent the problem that you have.
And by the way WELCOME TO THE FORUM.
Let us know how you make out, there are a lot of very knowledgeable folks who have experience repairing these machines.
The bottom line is that it is repariable.
Bill V

[JPG]

[ATTACH]16112[/ATTACH]

Just to clarify location of lubrication point!

Unusual wear tis a clue! Notice the wear on the end on the control sheave.

It may be that excessive pressure has been applied by the porkchop when adjusting the speed towards slow. It may have been caused by the clip being out of normal position. It may have been dinged at the factory.

However the porkchop does not 'pull' the control sheave by way of that clip when 'all is well'. That pulling occurs if the floating sheave on the motor shaft is sluggish and does not push the control sheave towards the porkchop when belt tension is lessened by the porkchop moving to the left in the pix. The clip has slop to allow the porkchop to move to the left without pulling on the clip. If the speed is adjusted to rapidly towards fast, the floating sheave must move faster to prevent the 'pulling'.

The pin is simply a tension(roll) pin that is a tight fit in the bearing button hole and the clip is inserted into the id of the pin.

The bearing can be 'lubricated by generous(10 drops) of oil in the control sheave oil hole(in 'fast position' and raising the ss to vertical over night thus allowing the oil to seep into the bearing).

Do oil the floating sheave on the motor shaft. It is likely that is what caused the clip to disconnect etc.

The purpose of the clip is to prevent the center button on the bearing from rotating. That button should be constantly pressing against the porkchop when under load. The button not rotating prevents wear to the hardened steel strip on the face of the porkchop.

[wa2crk]

JPG
I saw that too but I thought the ding was from the peening of the shaft to hold the bearing in place.
Bill V

[JPG]

JPG
I saw that too but I thought the ding was from the peening of the shaft to hold the bearing in place.
Bill V

Could be, but I am not used to seeing it so 'localized'.

[nuhobby]

I've seen good sheaves with peen-marks like that, too.

[jtrainer]

OK so last night I turned up the unit into drill press mode. I've been putting drops of oil into the hold designated in the picture above, that's where I've been oiling all along (along with the lower sheave oil hold behind the spring).

So far turning by hand I've been unable to get it to move. The center bearing (Pin/Clip Hole) spins freely. I can secure it with a Allen key and spin the assy by hand.

Here's a pic of the recovered pin and clip. I think it can be bent back and replaced on a future parts order.


[ATTACH]16129[/ATTACH]

If this can't be fixed, I've watched Saw Dust Session #23 a few times. Rebuilding the Drive Train. This looks straight forward however I'm stuck in slow, would I try to remove the drive belt using the same manor as described in the video however on the control assy?

As for location I'm in Simi Valley, CA. Please spare me the PRC (Kalimexifornia) jokes... I know were screwed up.

I have seen Lancaster, CA on someones profile. I also know there are 2 other ShopSmith's in the neighborhood. On 4 or 5 doors up the street.

[JPG]

OK so last night I turned up the unit into drill press mode. I've been putting drops of oil into the hold designated in the picture above, that's where I've been oiling all along (along with the lower sheave oil hold behind the spring).

So far turning by hand I've been unable to get it to move. The center bearing (Pin/Clip Hole) spins freely. I can secure it with a Allen key and spin the assy by hand.

Here's a pic of the recovered pin and clip. I think it can be bent back and replaced on a future parts order.


[ATTACH]16129[/ATTACH]

If this can't be fixed, I've watched Saw Dust Session #23 a few times. Rebuilding the Drive Train. This looks straight forward however I'm stuck in slow, would I try to remove the drive belt using the same manor as described in the video however on the control assy?

As for location I'm in Simi Valley, CA. Please spare me the PRC (Kalimexifornia) jokes... I know were screwed up.

I have seen Lancaster, CA on someones profile. I also know there are 2 other ShopSmith's in the neighborhood. On 4 or 5 doors up the street.

Unable to get what to move?

Spinning what 'assembly'?

Make sure ALL bends are a right angle(espesially the short legs).

That rolled wire on the end should rotate freely.

The belt is only removable from the motor pulley. It has an open end - the idler pulley does not.

The idler pulley will not rotate unless the motor pulley also rotates if the belt is attached to both.

The control sheave will not move in/out on the idler shaft if the belt is pulled down into the pulley(fast position).


Your next step is to pull the belt off the motor pulley thus making every thing free to move independantly and then ascertain what (if) anything is 'stuck'.


FWIW, the pic in your first post shows the control sheave not in the 'fast' position. The button bearing should be closer to the pork chop.

The belt must be positioned near the outer circumference of the motor pulley(fast position) to remove it.


....:)As possible clarification: the idler 'pulley' consists of the control 'sheave' and the idler 'sheave'. The motor 'pulley' consists of the floating 'sheave' and the fan 'sheave'. Both pulleys consist of a 'fixed' sheave and a 'floating' sheave. The control sheave is sometimes(by Nick) referred to as the floating sheave. Correct, but can lead to confusion. In practice the control sheave(idler shaft) is positioned by the speed control, and the floating sheave(motor shaft) repositions(floats) to maintain belt tension.

Truth be told, sheave is somewhat ambiguous as a half of a pulley. Flange could also be used to describe them, but is itself also ambiguous. We go with SS terminology!

[mgbbob]

Hi folks,

I just went through this. I am guessing the upper sheeve is stuck. Mine was in slow speed. I dropped the cover and pulled the spring on the lower sheeve. the belt will come loose and well the best thing is to watch the videos several times.

I soaked mine and kept working it back and forth. Everything finally smoothed up. I think I put it partially back together a number of times before I figured out the right sequence.

Good luck.

Bob

[jtrainer]

I appreciate your patience I'm still very green in ShopSmith land. I'm fulfilling child hood dreams

Unable to get what to move?
Spinning what 'assembly'?

OK Sure I wasn't very clear. By hand turning the Quill Assembly using the drill chuck. I thought and could be wrong, but if the oil is helping then with the porkchop moved just off the Center Pin/Hole assy mimicking the speed increase when spun by hand the upper sheaves would start to separate and allow me to get to the full speed position.

Make sure ALL bends are a right angle(espesially the short legs).

That rolled wire on the end should rotate freely.

OK It's not bad but getting that perfect right angle is going to be hard to get, but I'll give it a whirl.

The belt is only removable from the motor pulley. It has an open end - the idler pulley does not.

The idler pulley will not rotate unless the motor pulley also rotates if the belt is attached to both.

The control sheave will not move in/out on the idler shaft if the belt is pulled down into the pulley(fast position).

Your next step is to pull the belt off the motor pulley thus making every thing free to move independantly and then ascertain what (if) anything is 'stuck'.

FWIW, the pic in your first post shows the control sheave not in the 'fast' position. The button bearing should be closer to the pork chop.

The belt must be positioned near the outer circumference of the motor pulley(fast position) to remove it.

OK Herein lies part of my problem, I seem to be stuck in Low/Slow speed and am unable to get to high speed. Thus if the belt can't be taken off in this position, I'm I to think the only alternative is to cut said belt?

So once that belt for the motor pulley is off, the control and idler sheaves should be able to separate by hand, regardless of the poly-v/glimmer belt still being in place?