Page 3 of 3

Posted: Sat Feb 11, 2012 1:56 pm
by peterm
gucho
Go here for the story on the face plates:
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... =faceplate

I recently used the face plate with a 1/4" x 20 threaded hole in its center to make the kind of chuck that has a center wood screw to hold a small turning. I just used a hanger bolt, the kind with a wood screw on half and 1/4" machine thread on the other half.

Posted: Sat Feb 11, 2012 10:17 pm
by gucho
I could not find them anywhere there! Dang! no dice!
Im thinking I might make some of the big one way jumbo jaws out of some hard plastic. Make it easier to finish the bottoms.

like these
http://www.busybeetools.com/products/JU ... .0IN..html

I like the idea of the face plate mounting for the ringmaster, im going to be putting a lot of lumber through that unit!! when it becomes nice I will post some pictures.
so many jigs and gadgets so little time.... :D

Posted: Sat Feb 11, 2012 10:52 pm
by THOMRIDER
Did you just hook a speed dial straight to the shopsmith motor to reduce speed. Or will that not work.

Posted: Sat Feb 11, 2012 11:36 pm
by peterm
THOMRIDER, are you referring to the "poor mans speed reducer" or something else?

If you are, the router speed control only works on motors having brushes, so will not work with a Shopsmith motor. For more, take a look through this thread:
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... otor+drive

If not, perhaps someone else can reply.

Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 6:59 am
by THOMRIDER
Yes poor man's speed control.

Poor Man’s Speed Reducer/Increaser

Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 4:30 pm
by billmayo
I took a Gilmer Drive headstock and removed the broken Gilmer belt. I installed a 1 1/2" OD V-belt pulley (machined ID to 5/8") on the idler shaft and the largest V-belt pulley (around 8"-9" OD) that had a long hub on the drive sleeve shaft that would fit. I installed a second set screw on the larger pulley's hub side that did not have one. I used a 5/8" ID to 3/4" OD long insert drilled to allow the set screws to go through to the shaft. I added a short 5/8” stub shaft to allow the an accessory hub to drive the bandsaw. I used a link belt. I believe this gave me around 225 RPM at the slowest speed. I had removed the belt housing when first using this set-up but put it back on later. It was not a pretty sight but worked. I had planned to make a belt guard for these pulleys but never got around to it. I reversed the pulleys and used the headstock to check the quill and drive sleeve bearings at 12,000-15,000 RPM until they got real noisely. I was trying several makes of bearings to determine the best priced bearing for higher speeds.

I used this headstock to drive my bandsaw which I used to cut aluminum and metal material. I finally brought 2 metal cutting bandsaws, one for steel and one for aluminum. Then, I sold the headstock after 5 years of use to a customer to use for bowl turning.

Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 11:08 pm
by gucho
I dont think I have the guts to start messing around with the gearing in the machine, But since i just acquired a second machine I just might!!!!

Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 11:37 pm
by JPG
gucho wrote:I dont think I have the guts to start messing around with the gearing in the machine, But since i just acquired a second machine I just might!!!!
Only gears are on the speed control knob and the quill feed!

Posted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 6:19 am
by jm51
I was trying several makes of bearings to determine the best priced bearing for higher speeds.

This might be of interest Bill, for his tool post grinder he uses some type of oil bath bearing. You'll probably understand it better than me:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d-woPRV_lac

My idea for a light use speed reducer was a variac :eek: but haven't come across a cheap enough 8 amp unit yet and am not brave enough to try my 2 amp one.