Shopsmith Forums

Chettrick has a good idea- why couldn't you just cut a slit in the rubber ring, remove it when you do lathe work, then put it back on when you're done? Yes, it would probably deform a bit if you push the carriage hard against the headstock, but hopefully, if the tubes are well waxed, you don't have to use that much force anyway....

Gary

greitz wrote:Chettrick has a good idea- why couldn't you just cut a slit in the rubber ring, remove it when you do lathe work, then put it back on when you're done? Yes, it would probably deform a bit if you push the carriage hard against the headstock, but hopefully, if the tubes are well waxed, you don't have to use that much force anyway....

Gary

That's exactly what I have done. My first rubber ring was mistaken for packaging material and I cut it off and threw it away. Only a few months ago was I aware of what I had been missing. I worked for years without one. I bought a new ring but had issues with it while turning a pepper mill top from scrap. (Shouldn't have had the issue, but I did) So I sliced the ring with my pocket knife and removed it. The ring is now back on the SS held together with electricians tape (less than one wrap). It performs admirably - just as good as new!

charlese wrote:That's exactly what I have done. My first rubber ring was mistaken for packaging material and I cut it off and threw it away. Only a few months ago was I aware of what I had been missing. I worked for years without one. I bought a new ring but had issues with it while turning a pepper mill top from scrap. (Shouldn't have had the issue, but I did) So I sliced the ring with my pocket knife and removed it. The ring is now back on the SS held together with electricians tape (less than one wrap). It performs admirably - just as good as new!

A "removable spacer". Sounds like a new ShopSmith accessory.

cincinnati wrote:A "removable spacer". Sounds like a new ShopSmith accessory.

You know I think I remember that part, isn't it 5555555 and sells for $55.55.

OK I'm kidding. But I have been thinking about a part like has been mentioned that would let you return to set-ups and have the table and blade come back to say .001" of the previous set up. I have prototyped one but have a few things I don't like about it. (It has been pending revisions for about 9 months now.) It would also provide for re-zeroing the scales and rip fence.

So if someone has some spare time and wants to do a service for all of us develope one of these pieces.

Ed

I like many others removed my spacer when I unpacked the machine. Sometime later I found out it was missing and put it back. Then I did some upgrade and it no longer fit because it was too wide, I think for the 520 fence. I also found out it did prevent damage if parts came together too fast, so I modified it to fit and put the remainder on the other side of the headstock.

If someone does figure out how to make this useful I would be interested.

Ed, what issues are you trying to solve with your prototype?

paulmcohen wrote:I like many others removed my spacer when I unpacked the machine. Sometime later I found out it was missing and put it back...
If someone does figure out how to make this useful I would be interested...

I have an old style, home made panel sled that fits on the left side of the saw blade. I have found with the aid of the spacer, the right side of the sled fits right up against the left side of the saw blade every time. The advantage here is when I mark the workpiece to size - all I have to do is place that mark right on the edge of the sled and "BINGO" the cut is exactly right on!:D