54 Greenie Restore

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Feb 14, 2012 3:34 pm

holsgo wrote:The shaft does wiggle in a single bearing quill.

And that washer that is often mistaken for a second bearing is there to hold the wobbley splined shaft so it is centered when attaching the quill to the headstock.

mrhart · Post by **mrhart** » Tue Feb 14, 2012 4:10 pm

How then does one determine to replace the bearings or not? I have bearing experience on vehicle drive shafts, rear ends, 4x4 hubs and furnace blowers. Bad ones are leaking, noisey, no free play, sloppy ect but I guess I'm making too much out of the bearing thing. The main drive shaft spun by hand and would continue a revolution or two after I spun it. The bearing in the quill I just noticed some side to side play, but it's on a long shaft where the leverage to move it around in your hands is probably unfair. I can see where a second bearing would make it more stable but I don't think I'll be going that route.
I'm wondering, because of the nature of the headstock (sort of tidy) that someone had been down this route before--11/8 motor pretty darn clean, cord and switch replaced, belts not cracked, bearings seem to spin free, all splines ect look good.

You know a side note, I did see a handwritten signature on the bottom cover of the headstock. It was a guys first name. I can't recall it, but I'll look when I get home. Maybe it was sent in to service and just not painted.

mrhart · Post by **mrhart** » Tue Feb 14, 2012 8:29 pm

I looked when I got home, someone signed the bottom cover pan of the headstock.
Last name of REEVE sorry could not get the camera to focus well

Mean anything to anybody

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JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Feb 14, 2012 8:49 pm

Well it does have a Reeves drive!

Bearings should revolve smoothly(no gritty or bumpy feeling). They should not be free spinning(should contain grease). The inner race should not wiggle(too much). They will usually have a very small amount of play.

FWIW. when torn down this far, replacing them becomes a minimal extra effort. Compared to having to tear it down to get at them!

If those bearings are original, I would replace them, but keep them as future spares.

mrhart · Post by **mrhart** » Wed Feb 15, 2012 7:42 pm

billmayo wrote:Use a small flat blade screwdriver (4") and slide it around the inside headstock drive sleeve hole. There is tang on the retainer ring that you have to hook and pry out and up and then your rotate the screwdriver slighty to where your fingers can remove the retainer ring. I takes me many tries some times to hook and lift the tang to where I can remove the retainer ring. I never remove the back inside drive sleeve retainer ring.

I use a 18" 1/2" rebar with the tips ground down to remove the drive sleeve. Many times the inner bearing will hang in the outter bearing bore and stay in the headstock as you drive (large hammer) the drive sleeve out of the headstock. Then the bearing can be tapped back into the headstock. Be sure to clean and gently remove any sharp edges or scratches in the headstock bore.

Sir, probably my confusion, I removed the ring on the outside of the headstock as I read. You are saying there is another ring on the "inside" of the headstock as well?
I put the quill in with a block between as I have read here also, it seems pretty stiff and I'm afraid to apply too much pressure. My next move is to tap it out as you describe but I want to make sure there is not another retaining ring. I have looked and felt around and don't see one.

mrhart · Post by **mrhart** » Wed Feb 15, 2012 7:45 pm

JPG40504 wrote:Well it does have a Reeves drive!

Bearings should revolve smoothly(no gritty or bumpy feeling). They should not be free spinning(should contain grease). The inner race should not wiggle(too much). They will usually have a very small amount of play.

FWIW. when torn down this far, replacing them becomes a minimal extra effort. Compared to having to tear it down to get at them!

If those bearings are original, I would replace them, but keep them as future spares.

Sorry for my ignorance sir, I had never heard the drive system refered to with that name. i did a search here and see where its out there, I've just missed it. I was hoping it was a famous electrical machinist, and my piece of art was worth about the cost of a new M7.

mrhart · Post by **mrhart** » Wed Feb 15, 2012 7:48 pm

fiatben wrote:Two years ago I bought a '55 and went thru it:

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=5449&highlight=lady+green

Had a lot of similar issues, maybe my experiences and pictures can help you thru yours.

One thing I found invaluable was the Sawdust Sessions on rehabbing a used Shopsmith. The link can be found under the Maintenance Forum stickys.

Been through your whole post, very informative thanks.

jcraigie · Post by **jcraigie** » Wed Feb 15, 2012 7:51 pm

mrhart wrote: Sir, probably my confusion, I removed the ring on the outside of the headstock as I read. You are saying there is another ring on the "inside" of the headstock as well?
I put the quill in with a block between as I have read here also, it seems pretty stiff and I'm afraid to apply too much pressure. My next move is to tap it out as you describe but I want to make sure there is not another retaining ring. I have looked and felt around and don't see one.

Yes there is another retainer on the inside just like the one you removed. Dont worry about removing it unless you need to for some reason (I found that one kind of a pain to put back in) just use a dowel or brass rod to gently hammer it out. Remove the quill insert with said persuder rod and gently tap with a hammer to drive it out. Go slow and make sure it comes out square not cocked.

mrhart · Post by **mrhart** » Wed Feb 15, 2012 7:55 pm

jcraigie wrote:Yes there is another retainer on the inside just like the one you removed. Dont worry about removing it unless you need to for some reason (I found that one kind of a pain to put back in) just use a dowel or brass rod to gently hammer it out. Remove the quill insert said persuder rod and gently tap with a hammer to drive it out. Go slow and make sure it comes out square not cocked.

Thankyou sir, outside I go..........

mrhart · Post by **mrhart** » Wed Feb 15, 2012 8:25 pm

Wa-la.
The first bearing slide out pretty smooth, the second one slid into the hole in the headstock casting, and with a little stronger effort stuck there and the shaft and outer bearing popped out and left the inner bearing stuck in the hole, but tapped it right out.
I'm glad for taking it down this far. The outer bearing does not turn smooth-hangs up a little and "feels" rough inside.
I will do as JPG suggested and replace all the bearings while I have it out and both belts.
Thanks for the assist.

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