Shopsmith Forums

algale wrote: I used the jig to cut the first two scarfs, which I dry fit to check the fit. Looks pretty good. There's about 6.125 inches of joint over the .75 inch width of the joint, so 8:1, which I read was sufficient (someone speak up if they think that's too short?).

Tomorrow I'll mix up some epoxy and glue 'em up.

WOW! 8:1 is definitely not too short! WoW again! I haven't even thought of making scarf joints in the last decade or two! Scarfs are a real neat solution for making longer length from short ones. I had completely forgot about them.

CONGRATULATIONS ON THAT JIG!!! And your work BTW, would have taken me a day or so to figure that out!

The last time I used scarfs was to construct a laminated wood beam to support the upstairs I was building. The Douglas fir beam made it possible to make a 25 foot long, 8 foot wide walk in closet for my wife. No longer live in that home. The slope on those scarfs were 10:1. Just about the same as 8:1. Over kill? Don't know!

Paul or anyone else who is an epoxy expert -- I'm planning on adding mirco-fibers to the epoxy to make up the glue for the gunwales. What kind of consistency/thicknes am I looking for in the mixture? Thanks in advance.

Just thick enough to keep it from running Al.
Apply it with a "pukemouse". It will save a lot of cleanup.
To see what a pukemouse is, check out this blog about epoxy handling.

http://lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/26382

Thanks, Paul. I've read the pukemouse blog before, but will re-read. Some of the canoe building website recommend first painting the joint with unthickened epoxy to get it to soak in before applying the thickened stuff. Any thoughts on that wisdom?

This jig took longer to put together and was not made for cutting scarfs, but, it would do so.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/gener ... 14024.html

A different approach.

Well, I learned something.

I had the clever idea to put some Saran wrap under and over the scarf joint so the epoxy wouldn't get all over the piece of aluminum angle I was using to align and clamp the joint to.

Well, it protected the aluminum angle alright, but it created problems.

One, I couldn't get under and around the joint to clear off the excess epoxy (it was probably too runny -- another learning experience).

Then it melted and stuck to the Saran.

Here's a couple of photos of the mess (temporarily clamped to the canoe).


But, the joint seems like it is otherwise ok.

Now I need to decide whether to sand down the mess or, since I have extra length, just cut out the offending section and start over.

One thing is for sure, I need to devise a clamping jig that leaves the joint exposed on all sides so I can clean it up!

Bench chisel to remove stuck/loose, then sand.

You WERE going to sand it anyway.

Worth a try.

JPG wrote:Bench chisel to remove stuck/loose, then sand.

You WERE going to sand it anyway.

Worth a try.

Great advice, JPG! I think I've got it!
Now, about a gluing jig so I don't have to go through that three more times...

So, what material does epoxy NOT adhere to? Teflon HDPE nylon ???

JPG wrote:So, what material does epoxy NOT adhere to? Teflon HDPE nylon ???

It has popped out of various plastic mixing containers (leaves a perfect mold of the cup) and the plastic spreaders used to wet out the fiberglass. Which is why I figured the Saran Wrap would not give me a problem.

I don't know if the micro fibers are what made it stickier or if Saran Wrap is just subject to getting stuck in it.