Shopsmith Forums

charlese wrote:You got it right Al -- I assumed bent gluing.

Another question - Why can't you use Titebond III instead of epoxy on the scarfs. It's water proof! And easier to work. 10 minute open time. Longer time for adjustments after the joint is closed. Easier cleanup! You can run a peg through the joint and clamp firmly. http://www.titebond.com/titebond_wood_g ... _Glue.aspx

Back to making scarfs. I made mine on a RAS. No jig needed.

That's an interesting question about using Titebond III instead of epoxy, but I don't know the answer. Both canoe-building books I have say to use epoxy, as do all the boat/canoe building web sites I've visited. Maybe Titebond III is too plastic and allows the joint to creep under stress? But your peg would solve that. I suspect that when our esteemed ship-building forum member checks in we will get an authoritative answer.

I guess greater faith in epoxy.

Or put another way, little faith in any glue.


That is limited to boats.





I am not sure I would have sufficient faith in glue that is subject to frequent saturation, but then me not a boat builder.

In any shipyard I ever worked in, pva glue was just not seen. Some may use it inside but I've never seen it used structurally outside. Before epoxy became the norm it was urea formaldehyde and before that resorcinol. I would not use pva in this application.
There may be clues in this discussion of glues.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_glue

From the Titebond III website -

"Not for continuous submersion or for use below the waterline. "

I know that the gunwales aren't below the waterline, but I'd rather use a glue without that restriction.

Mike

Mike907 wrote:From the Titebond III website -

"Not for continuous submersion or for use below the waterline. "

I know that the gunwales aren't below the waterline, but I'd rather use a glue without that restriction.

Mike

The way I paddle, the gunwales are as likely to be below as above the waterline.

shipwright wrote:In any shipyard I ever worked in, pva glue was just not seen. Some may use it inside but I've never seen it used structurally outside. Before epoxy became the norm it was urea formaldehyde and before that resorcinol. I would not use pva in this application.
There may be clues in this discussion of glues.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_glue

You are absolutely correct, Paul! PVA is not the best choice. In the old days I used resorcinol for everything. Easy to mix up and easy to use. Also didn't have to worry about glue supply getting too old to use. Just carried a little can of powder on the shelf. Just put a some powder in a mixing bowl and then add water slowly & stir until you get a paste you can spread.

Without much experiance with epoxy - I know resorcinol is very easy to use and clean up.

Thanks for reminding me of this glue.

Well, I just unclamped the remaining gunwales and I think I've got a lost less mess to clean up.

Things I did differently:

First, I used a thicker sheet plastic to protect the aluminum angle(actually part of a plastic drop cloth), which unlike the Saran Wrap (a) didn't melt and (b) pulled away from the cured epoxy squeeze out no problem.

Second, before applying epoxy to the faces of the scarf joints, I applied some paste wax to the surrounding surfaces. The cured epoxy popped right off of these areas (at least where I applied enough wax). If you try that trick, absolutely make sure you don't get any on the mating surfaces and make sure you clear off any remaining wax before finishing the gunwales with clear epoxy/varnish.

Third, I used a lot more micro fibers to thicken the epoxy mix (although probably still not thick enough).

I will try to post some pix later.

How would you go about doweling these three pieces (parts of future canoe deck) together using the Shopsmith?
I am thinking in vertical drill press mode, pieces on edge, table tilted to counteract the slope. The miter gauge locked in place with an extension to serve as the fence.

Open to other suggestions.

With epoxy the dowels would be just for looks ...... and you can't see them. :-)
Put them together with a masking tape hinge, open, add thickened epoxy and close.
That's it ........ that's it!
(You can squeeze it a little with a rubber band or bungee to reduce the glue line if you want)

shipwright wrote:With epoxy the dowels would be just for looks ...... and you can't see them. :-)
Put them together with a masking tape hinge, open, add thickened epoxy and close.
That's it ........ that's it!
(You can squeeze it a little with a rubber band or bungee to reduce the glue line if you want)

Thanks as usual, Paul!!!! Just saved me quite a headache.