Shopsmith Forums

First gunwale screwed on, initial leveling (belt sanding) done, and screw holes filled with contrasting maple plugs. Obviously, these will be cut close to flush and sanded smooth.
W.L. Fuller makes great countersinks and matching plug cutters if you are in the market.

algale wrote:First gunwale screwed on, initial leveling (belt sanding) done, and screw holes filled with contrasting maple plugs. Obviously, these will be cut close to flush and sanded smooth.

IMG_2622.JPG

W.L. Fuller makes great countersinks and matching plug cutters if you are in the market.

A truly admirable effort algale. I am looking forward (as i am sure you are as well LOL) to seeing this work of art finished ....

rjent wrote:

algale wrote:First gunwale screwed on, initial leveling (belt sanding) done, and screw holes filled with contrasting maple plugs. Obviously, these will be cut close to flush and sanded smooth.

IMG_2622.JPG

W.L. Fuller makes great countersinks and matching plug cutters if you are in the market.

A truly admirable effort algale. I am looking forward (as i am sure you are as well LOL) to seeing this work of art finished ....

Thanks! When you have only a couple of hours a weekend to work on a project like this and when everything is a first time doing it, the project takes soooo looong.

True, but it will be sooooo nice!

And you soooooo want to get it right ....

If anyone else builds one of these, here's a couple of stupid things to avoid while doing the gunwales to avoid extra work.

Do not bother sealing the top or the outer side of the outer gunwale or the top of the inner gunwale before putting them on. For obvious reasons, these will all get sanded and you will just need to re-seal them. My canoe book said to finish three sides. Dumb (at least with respect to the outer gunwale). Do seal the bottom sides of both gunwales and the sides that attach to the hull.

Don't ease the edges of the gunwales before putting them on, as I did, or if you do, do not ease the edges that go against to the canoe's hull. This creates a thick joint at the gunwales/hull interface and you will just want to sand down below the easing to get more of a knife edge. This one I can't blame on my book; it was my very own dumb idea! Nothing fatal, fortunately. Just time wasted.

The maple plugs is a great idea...that will look very nice. Am really enjoying watching this boat come together.

Anticipating a little challenge and soliciting advice. The canoe design I'm building has quite a bit of "tumblehome" in the middle of the canoe -- meaning in cross section the sides curve inwards at the top. This means the gunwales slope inwards from the outer gunwale to the inner gunwale.

It looks great; however, it creates a challenge for attaching the center thwart/yoke. The center thwart/yoke goes beneath the inner gunwales and is bolted through the gunwale. But, with the gunwales sloping if I do nothing to the thwart/yoke it will only make contact at the outer edge of the gunwale and there will be a large gap.

How do I measure the angle I need to cut out of the thwart/yoke so that it makes solid contact with the inner gunwale and how do I make that cut?

The photo shows the thwart resting on top of the gunwale but should give you an idea of the problem when the thwart is placed below.

Slip a square piece (gunwale scrap) up under the gunwale and Mark the end of it with a stick in the place the thwart will go. That will give you the angle. Then I would just rip that piece (one each side) on the line just marked and glue (bed) it in place leaving you a flat mating surface for the thwart.

Easy peasy. :-)

Paul

shipwright wrote:Slip a square piece (gunwale scrap) up under the gunwale and Mark the end of it with a stick in the place the thwart will go. That will give you the angle. Then I would just rip that piece (one each side) on the line just marked and glue (bed) it in place leaving you a flat mating surface for the thwart.

Easy peasy. :-)

Paul

Thanks, Paul. That sounds like the way to go!