Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.
mountainbreeze wrote:I think I am missing something. The length of the screw and the thickness of the white disk did not change, so how does countersinking the hole help?
I think the head on the screw was 'bottoming' out on the bar. The counter sink 'relief' allows the screw(and head) to be advanced further 'into' the bar. The screw head advancing expands the white disc to minimize slot/bar slop.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG40504 wrote:I think the head on the screw was 'bottoming' out on the bar. The counter sink 'relief' allows the screw(and head) to be advanced further 'into' the bar. The screw head advancing expands the white disc to minimize slot/bar slop.
I will let you know tomorrow when my order from SS arrives.
Fred Sheldon
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
Thanks to the advice about countersinking the holes, I gave it a try, not only on the IBOX bar, but also on my newly received Incra 120 Miter Gauge. It worked, and I'm now able to snug up the bars in the slots.
I'm also learning about countersinks. I bought a single fluted countersink made in the USA, but the shaft and bit weren't concentric, and I wound up with smooth but oval holes. I then went back to the hardware store and exchanged it for a chinese made four fluted countersink. It made round but chattered holes. The chattering is probably my fault for only using hand pressure, and not a clamp to hold the bar in the miter slot while drilling. I was also relying on the Power Pro recommendation of 760 rpm for countersinking ferrous metal, so I don't know if the speed had anything to do with the results.
I think both problems were caused by workpiece movement relative to the bit. I do not know how an off center shaft on a single flute bit would make oval holes otherwise. Spindle slop might cause it also.
Similar to getting three sided holes when using a two fluted drill bit.
Increasing drilling pressure(feed) can help minimize chatter.
OK bar in miter slot only allows the workpiece to move back and forth in the slot = oval holes. The narrow side of the 'oval' is facing the direction of movement in the slot.
The back side of a single fluted bit should be closer to the axis since it rides in the 'not yet cut side of the hole'.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
reible wrote:I am wondering if anyone else who owns one of these has done the countersink and if so how did that work out for you?
Also has any one checked to see if your bar has any sort of countersink from the factory?
Ed
Ed,
I don't have the iBox but your thread has me wondering about my relaitvely recently acquired v120. When I got it I noticed it was impossible to snug it up as much as I was used to on my 1000HD which I bought to use on another table saw I no longer own (I no longer own the 1000HD either, having gifted it to my BIL). At the time I didn't think much about it because (1) it snugged up better than the standard issue Shopsmith miter bar and (2) I had bigger problems with trying to attach my safety grip to the v120 (a problem which Shopsmith ultimately fixed). So now I will take a look to see if the bar has the countersinks and I will report back.
Al
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
I don't have the iBox but your thread has me wondering about my relaitvely recently acquired v120. When I got it I noticed it was impossible to snug it up as much as I was used to on my 1000HD which I bought to use on another table saw I no longer own (I no longer own the 1000HD either, having gifted it to my BIL). At the time I didn't think much about it because (1) it snugged up better than the standard issue Shopsmith miter bar and (2) I had bigger problems with trying to attach my safety grip to the v120 (a problem which Shopsmith ultimately fixed). So now I will take a look to see if the bar has the countersinks and I will report back.
Al
Any else recall a similar problem(flat heads bottoming out due to no relief) with the Incra safety grip mount?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG40504 wrote:Any else recall a similar problem(flat heads bottoming out due to no relief) with the Incra safety grip mount?
Sorry for the confusion; the safety grip mounting problem I had with the v120 was not related to flat head screws bottoming out. In my case, the mounting post for the safety grip was out of tolerance per Shopsmith (which replaced it). That problem consumed a lot of my attention, however, and stopped me from paying much attention to the miter bar and whether I was getting as snug a fit as I had experienced with my old 1000HD (in a different table saw).
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!