Once more - the Mark V comes through

[rjent]

Outstanding Charlese, as usual. First class workmanship.

[BuckeyeDennis]

Nice work, Chuck! I like the leg turnings in particular. Starting with a large blank, and then turning some small diameters, creates a degree of visual drama that is rare (and/or expensive) in production furniture.

I do have a question about the oak you used. Around here, we basically have white oak and red oak. The red oak has a warm reddish tone, and the white oak is much more neutral (but has the strong "rays" if quartersawn). I have a fair amount on each on my lumber rack, all from a single CL purchase. I don't think that any of those boards show a mix of the two tones.

But your oak definitely looks to have an interesting two-tone coloration. What kind of oak is that?

[charlese]

Thanks again, fellas, for the nice comments.

John: I'll take up the subject of router bits in a later thread. Looks like I/we could use more info. Admittedly, not knowing a whole lot about routing, I'll enlist some help from those who do.

ER - The legs will be covered in pictures at the bottom of this post. I think, maybe you were also asking about floating or loose tenons.

Buckeye: I use mostly red oak in my shop. Mainly because it is less expensive. Quarter sawn white oak sells at a premium. That is only purchased if the ray effect is wanted on the surface. I've only built one table using white oak and found it a bit harder to machine then red because rays are more likely to chip out.

The difference in tones is common in all the red oak I've run through my shop. This became obvious to me in my first project - a couch table. I randomly glued up pieces to make Queen ann legs. Didn't realize the color differences until sawing out the legs. This difference became more obvious after finishing. (Oh well! Wife says it's O.K.) Now I TRY to separate pieces with color changes. Some of this change is the way finish is absorbed. Some is sapwood vs. heartwood. Much of the differences have faded over the years. (about 20 yrs)

Legs for the bench were made in three steps.
1) saw boards to proper width and cut off to proper length
2) face glue boards together to form blanks
3) lathe turn to shape desired. Don't forget the top tenon. (hint) be careful of fingers getting thumped by the parts remaining square

Pictures:

LEG MAKING (1).JPG (63.36 KiB) Viewed 2388 times

LEG MAKING (2).JPG (81.3 KiB) Viewed 2388 times

LEG MAKING (3).JPG (64.06 KiB) Viewed 2388 times

This was my original project. If you enlarge it you can see color chanes in the legs and also the edge boards of the top.

EDIT: FOUND A BETTER PIC OF THE COUCH TABLE

Couch table (2).jpg (119.99 KiB) Viewed 2384 times

[algale]

Thanks again, fellas, for the nice comments.

John: I'll take up the subject of router bits in a later thread. Looks like I/we could use more info. Admittedly, not knowing a whole lot about routing, I'll enlist some help from those who do.

ER - The legs will be covered in pictures at the bottom of this post. I think, maybe you were also asking about floating or loose tenons.

Buckeye: I use mostly red oak in my shop. Mainly because it is less expensive. Quarter sawn white oak sells at a premium. That is only purchased if the ray effect is wanted on the surface. I've only built one table using white oak and found it a bit harder to machine then red because rays are more likely to chip out.

The difference in tones is common in all the red oak I've run through my shop. This became obvious to me in my first project - a couch table. I randomly glued up pieces to make Queen ann legs. Didn't realize the color differences until sawing out the legs. This difference became more obvious after finishing. (Oh well! Wife says it's O.K.) Now I TRY to separate pieces with color changes. Some of this change is the way finish is absorbed. Some is sapwood vs. heartwood. Much of the differences have faded over the years. (about 20 yrs)

Legs for the bench were made in three steps.
1) saw boards to proper width and cut off to proper length
2) face glue boards together to form blanks
3) lathe turn to shape desired. Don't forget the top tenon. (hint) be careful of fingers getting thumped by the parts remaining square

Pictures:

LEG MAKING (1).JPG

LEG MAKING (2).JPG

LEG MAKING (3).JPG

This was my original project. If you enlarge it you can see color chanes in the legs and also the edge boards of the top.

Couch Table.JPG

Thanks for the explanations and I'm sure any of us would be happy to make something as beautiful as that QA table even with the color changes.

[ERLover]

Charlese, beautiful work on the table. As far as the queen ann legs I tried a similar, a claw food, after a mock up out of pine, decided I did not have the talent/expertise for it. Nice work!!!!!!!!

[charlese]

Charlese, beautiful work on the table. As far as the queen ann legs I tried a similar, a claw food, after a mock up out of pine, decided I did not have the talent/expertise for it. Nice work!!!!!!!!

There are several woodworking things I've not tried.
I've been scared to try a claw foot! Best I can figure it is an oversized round foot then carved to reveal the claws. Three claws and a dew claw.

If I were ever going to try them, I'd make them with a tenon, so they could be inserted into the legs. Never would I try to make them after making the legs.

[ERLover]

My mock up was with all and then do some carving, or Dremel Tool work. all for a foot stool,audimin (freaken spell check)to match a leather Wing back chair with claw feet. I went with a straight fluted leg on it, which worked out better because the legs are straight down and the others would extend out and be in the way.
BTW I am cool with you, it was a fun thing, and learned a bit about my way, how those can be in others misinterpreted!!!