Shopsmith Forums

JPG wrote:Looks like the tooth is setting on the insert.?

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ZCI are not purchased for different blades. They are made from a blank that has the kerf cut by lowering the table down onto the blade thus cutting to fit.

This pix puzzles me. Looks like it cannot fit into the insert slot. Was the table lowered, then the blade rotated on to the insert? The blade may have been hitting the insert. Check for missing/loose teeth.

Regardless that blade is not suitable for that task.

Dang! Ol' eagle-eye strikes again. I took me a good five minutes to find that in the original photos, even after I knew what I was lookin for! JPG, you been moonlighting as a radiologist?

JPG wrote:Looks like the tooth is setting on the insert.?

Clipboard01.jpg

ZCI are not purchased for different blades. They are made from a blank that has the kerf cut by lowering the table down onto the blade thus cutting to fit.

This pix puzzles me. Looks like it cannot fit into the insert slot. Was the table lowered, then the blade rotated on to the insert? The blade may have been hitting the insert. Check for missing/loose teeth.

Regardless that blade is not suitable for that task.

Haha, I was perplexed by this, and I'm the one that took the picture. I went out there to see what was up with that, and it's just an optical illusion (though I had a hard time recreating it). I had the flash turn on on my phone, and it picked up the gray lower guard. The black is simply the shadow of the blade teeth. It certainly looks like the tooth is resting on something, but I assure you it isn't. Only the red insert is surrounding the blade at the table height, nothing else.

Made the rough cuts for the plaques. Sanded one after taking the pictures.

A few thoughts. I like the uses of the "red stripes" being a different size to let them stand out more. Also, I really like the raw look of it as it currently sits. I did but a small thing of natural stain to try on a few test pieces. I don't completely dislike it but I'm unsure.

Obviously I do want my work protected by something. But what can I use to protect the wood that won't really change the coloring nor give it any real shine?

EDIT: Also, regarding glueing the pieces together. Any suggestions? I think the curvature may provide some difficulties. And do I sand the sides to be glued or does that make it harder for the two to stick together?

I also like the contrasting colors - should turn out very nice!

In general, you want glue joints to fit together tightly. If you use a regular wood glue such as Titebond, this is essential for a strong joint. If you have gaps, then you need a glue that doesn't shrink as it dries or cures. Think epoxy.

That said, gluing end grain generally makes for a very weak joint. What happens is that the pores in the end grain wick up all the glue, and there is little left for the actual joint. Long-grain glue joints, on the other hand, are typically stronger than the wood itself.

I can't tell from your photos if you intend to rely on end-grain butt-joints alone. I would advise against that -- they will be very weak. But if your are gluing them up atop long boards on the bottom, those boards will provide the strength you need.

As for finish, you can get a pretty good idea of what a finish will do to the color of the wood by simply wetting it. Water works, but may raise the grain a bit (which can easily be sanded out). I usually use mineral spirits, or denatured alcohol if I want it to evaporate within a few seconds. Choose a "matte" or "satin" finish if you don't want it to be shiny. Different woods respond differently to finishes, so I always like to test a candidate finish on a scrap of the same wood I used for my project, before I make a final decision.

As for a "raw" vs. "refined" look for your woodworking, that's entirely a matter of personal taste. Unless you're planning on selling it, go for whatever look you like!