Shopsmith Forums

sehast wrote:

reible wrote:Flat doesn't cut it necessarily when you do radial only measurements. You would need to do across hatch pattern as well. Even doing this will not show if a mounted disk is perpendicular to the main shaft. The perpendicular is the critical element to using a plate for an instrument of alignment.

Ed

Maybe true, but we are only concerned with the radial flatness because that is what we are using for the table set up. I am assuming that you will use the full diameter of the disk with its center directly at the top of the table for measurements.

JPG wrote:

sehast wrote:

reible wrote:Flat doesn't cut it necessarily when you do radial only measurements. You would need to do across hatch pattern as well. Even doing this will not show if a mounted disk is perpendicular to the main shaft. The perpendicular is the critical element to using a plate for an instrument of alignment.

Ed

Maybe true, but we are only concerned with the radial flatness because that is what we are using for the table set up. I am assuming that you will use the full diameter of the disk with its center directly at the top of the table for measurements.

No maybe!

Flat is necessary for perpendicularity.

Perpendicular to the quill shaft axis.

reible wrote:Just like a saw blade you loose part of the blade below the table. I forget the numbers but maximum depth of cut is about 3-1/4" on a 10" blade. Like wise the sanding disk is going to be restricted to what 4-1/4" above the table so the area you are using will never ever be radial. Some one can get an actual measurement.

Now if you move to having the disk outside the table you can get to this but this is not what Dusty has been showing.

I personally invested in a Master Plate many years ago.

Now it is interesting that so many of you can measure to .001" with a feeler gauge. I have several sets and the lowest they go is .0015" What brands did you buy to get the .001"?

Ed

sehast wrote:

reible wrote:Just like a saw blade you loose part of the blade below the table. I forget the numbers but maximum depth of cut is about 3-1/4" on a 10" blade. Like wise the sanding disk is going to be restricted to what 4-1/4" above the table so the area you are using will never ever be radial. Some one can get an actual measurement.

Now if you move to having the disk outside the table you can get to this but this is not what Dusty has been showing.

I personally invested in a Master Plate many years ago.

Now it is interesting that so many of you can measure to .001" with a feeler gauge. I have several sets and the lowest they go is .0015" What brands did you buy to get the .001"?

Ed

Lee Valley
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.a ... 1657,32527

sehast wrote:

reible wrote:Just like a saw blade you loose part of the blade below the table. I forget the numbers but maximum depth of cut is about 3-1/4" on a 10" blade. Like wise the sanding disk is going to be restricted to what 4-1/4" above the table so the area you are using will never ever be radial. Some one can get an actual measurement.

Now if you move to having the disk outside the table you can get to this but this is not what Dusty has been showing.

I personally invested in a Master Plate many years ago.

Now it is interesting that so many of you can measure to .001" with a feeler gauge. I have several sets and the lowest they go is .0015" What brands did you buy to get the .001"?

Ed

.
Mine is only 0.0015.


Lee Valley
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.a ... 1657,32527

sehast wrote:

JPG wrote:

sehast wrote:
Maybe true, but we are only concerned with the radial flatness because that is what we are using for the table set up. I am assuming that you will use the full diameter of the disk with its center directly at the top of the table for measurements.

No maybe!

Flat is necessary for perpendicularity.

Perpendicular to the quill shaft axis.

I think I already stated that arbor run out was not measured and would effect the table setup but not the flatness of the disk.

dusty wrote:I have been grossly over thinking this Main Table Alignment Tool. In reality, two pieces of wood cut to the correct width is all that is required.

Once you have the two pieces of wood (get them to the correct dimension any way you know how), you are ready for a quick and dirty alignment.

Get the Mark into saw mode. Loosen all four trunnion bolts, remove the table insert and drop the table down as far as it will go without altering the horizontal position.

Insert one of the two freshly milled pieces on the left side of the blade where the table insert would be. Now insert the other on the right side of the blade. The table has now positioned itself so that the miter slots are parallel to the blade and the blade is in the center of the cutout.

Tighten the trunnion bolts and you are done.

BuckeyeDennis wrote:

dusty wrote:I have been grossly over thinking this Main Table Alignment Tool. In reality, two pieces of wood cut to the correct width is all that is required.

Once you have the two pieces of wood (get them to the correct dimension any way you know how), you are ready for a quick and dirty alignment.

Get the Mark into saw mode. Loosen all four trunnion bolts, remove the table insert and drop the table down as far as it will go without altering the horizontal position.

Insert one of the two freshly milled pieces on the left side of the blade where the table insert would be. Now insert the other on the right side of the blade. The table has now positioned itself so that the miter slots are parallel to the blade and the blade is in the center of the cutout.

Tighten the trunnion bolts and you are done.

That is indeed quick & slick! But first, I'd measure the sides of the table-insert slot, to verify they are precisely parallel to the miter slots.