Shopsmith Forums

Interesting comment that you feel safer with the SS. When one talks to non believers that is the one thing they consistently say which is they don't think a SS is safe. Of course they have never used one !
Paul

Love the shopsmith, however I do despise cutting bevels on it. DESPISE. A 45 degree bevel is ridiculously awkward, but it does get it done.

I have been tempted to get a cheap table saw just for that, however I'm going to buy my first miter saw and hope it will satisfy my needs for bevel cuts.

But I do still want to see that redesigned contractor w into self made table saw.

Beave2012 wrote:Love the shopsmith, however I do despise cutting bevels on it. DESPISE. A 45 degree bevel is ridiculously awkward, but it does get it done.

I have been tempted to get a cheap table saw just for that, however I'm going to buy my first miter saw and hope it will satisfy my needs for bevel cuts.

But I do still want to see that redesigned contractor w into self made table saw.

Cant rip a bevel on a miter saw, go for a used nice contractor table saw or a the next level up. I have a jet 10 used on CL with a great fence delivered for $500.00. I use my SS's for all other things but not a TS. Lunch box planer, just dont want to spend $400 ish for a used SS one when I can get something else for a $100 or less, last one was $35.00, plus my wood supplier has a 48 or 52" one and a 48" drum sander and a very minimal charge.

Beav I am the opposite on the bevel issue. I prefer the SS to all others on doing bevels. Having the table tilted for me is the best solution. I like the fact the piece is slanted downhill and against the fence using the weight of the piece to hold it against the fence and stabilize it.
Paul

Today, I spent some time on my Shopsmith in table saw mode, first time in a long time. Just have the 500 table. In any event, it was accurate, and only the miter guage needed to be squared. No bevels cut today. However, it was kind of strange when compared to the table height and table size of the Delta Contractor saw. In any event, it felt good to use it again; but, I think I will stick with the Delta for table saw duty.

I find I made few bevel cuts on the shopsmith but when I do I've not had any problems doing so. For one thing I grew up with a tilting table saw in our basement shop. We had both types but for a lot of my birdhouse building as a kid I use the smaller tilting table saw.

Things I do with the shopsmith like cutting wood for french cleats are fine or other such projects, I wouldn't like to think about doing larger pieces however, and of course some things are beyond the capacity of a shopsmith, there is only so much distance from the blade to the ground.... and then the depth of cut is effected with the lift assist......

I have a project for this year where I need to cut(rip and cross cut) parts at a 10 degree angle and I'm looking forward to seeing how the guided saw system works for that. The track saw has a lot of advantages and when you add the MFT for cross cutting it is like having a whole other way of doing things. The more you try with track saws the more you find you can do.

I parted with my rockwell table saw back in 1977 or 1978 and have used my shopsmith ever since for everything. Even with the 500 table and a few extra jigs it is amazing all that you can do. I've never wished for another saw but I did upgrade to the 520 and I did add a Jointech saw train system so I haven't stayed stagnate either. And well yes I did get the powerpro for it too. And yes I do spend a few dollars on things for woodworking but I don't see me ever spending money even a couple of hundred on a table saw.

Ed

I do not find that cutting bevels on the tilted table presents a big issue UNLESS the cutoff is wide (heavy). When I cut bevels, I have narrowed the work piece to the approximate width of the the finished item. The cut piece can then be allowed to go where it will.

If that can not be done, a helper is in order.

If you do not like tilting the table build a jig.
Most old "quality" cabinet shops still use jigs to cut bevels rather than tilting blade or table.

In fact one cabinet shop I know has never tilted the blade once the saw was finally adjusted. They just do not want to mess around with tilting. They have jigs for common bevels and use miter saws or track saws for everything else.