Fence Issues

[wa2crk]

I have found that checking for straightness is to use a good quality level. They have to be straight to do their job properly.
Aluminum rulers for sewing and other tasks are not suitable for this job. I tried to use my wife's sewing straightedge and I was shocked at how much it was bowed. Make sure your straightedge actually has a straight edge.
Bill V

[babalaisi]

Thanks for the information and help forum. i think I got the fence well aligned to at least where the miter slot is for now but I ran into the issue with the table because as I said earlier, when i checked the table it was not aligned and when I set alignment it moves out of alignment when I start snugging the table bolts to set alignment....
And Yes, the fences, at the 2 that I have, are not perfectly straight but was able to get things aligned at the in-feed and the out-feed side.
Anyone has any tricks to get the table alignment set and not move when tightening the bolts?
Thanks

[jsburger]

Thanks for the information and help forum. i think I got the fence well aligned to at least where the miter slot is for now but I ran into the issue with the table because as I said earlier, when i checked the table it was not aligned and when I set alignment it moves out of alignment when I start snugging the table bolts to set alignment....
And Yes, the fences, at the 2 that I have, are not perfectly straight but was able to get things aligned at the in-feed and the out-feed side.
Anyone has any tricks to get the table alignment set and not move when tightening the bolts?
Thanks

It is probably always going to move a little bit.

You know how far the table moves out of alignment. Set the table that amount in the opposite direction before you start to tighten the bolts. It should then move to the alignment point. It might take a couple of tries. Very gently snug the bolts and check. Snug again and check and again and again until they are tight.

[algale]

You know how far the table moves out of alignment. Set the table that amount in the opposite direction before you start to tighten the bolts. It should then move to the alignment point. It might take a couple of tries. Very gently snug the bolts and check. Snug again and check and again and again until they are tight.

This is what I do with the table (and what I suggested be done with the fence) and it works quite well -- requires a dial indicator, IMO, to measure the movement and then to compensate in the opposite direction. Be sure you snug bolts in same order when testing for movement and then (after compensating) re-tightening.

[dusty]

Main Table alignment has been the point of discussion on many forum threads. Getting proper alignment can be time consuming and frustrating but I believe I have refined my procedure so as to make it a simple and accurate method. I can readily get my table aligned to within .003" in a matter of just a few minutes.

I loosen all four of the trunnion bolts and then press the table to the right as far as it will go and while holding it there finger tighten all four trunnion bolts. I then use a wrench and more firmly tighten the left rear trunnion bolt just tight enough to restrict "free movement" of the table.

This done, a take readings using the instruments of choice to position the table so that the miter slot on the right hand side of the blade is equal distance from the blade at both the infeed and outfeed side of the blade. With this done I tighten the left hand trunnion bolts doing first the infeed side bolt and then the outfeed side bolt. The "right hand trunnion" bolts are still no more than finger tight.

Check alignment and if not satisfactory loosen the "left hand trunnion" bolts and repeat the previously described procedure. I seldom have a need to do a repeat setup.

When done (this far) tilt the table to gain access to the two "right hand trunnion" bolts and tighten them tight.

Set the table back to horizontal and lock the tilt. Check alignment for parallelism between the blade and the right hand miter slot. At this point, hopefully, the alignment procedure is complete.

I very seldom have need to realign the table. It maintains alignment through many, many setups without going out of alignment.

WORDS OF CAUTION: All such measurements and alignments MUST be done with all five of the locks secure (most especially the carriage and tilt locks.

I use an alignment plate for this procedure but a saw blade or metal sanding disk works just as well.

I use a dial indicator for my measurements but this procedure can be done quite satisfactorily (if you don't need glasses) using a good metal ruler with 1/64" markings.

OPINION: If you need more precise alignment than this procedure enables - you are using the wrong table saw.

[reible]

I find I can get it done quicker if I get one of the bolts snug and which one is not all that importation as different tables have different arrangements. I then snug up a second one and check the alignment. I try to get it pretty close then lightly tighten on of the bolts. In most cases there will be movement so I remeasure and lightly tighten the second bolt.

At this point the table is no longer sliding around but can still be moved/adjusted with the aid of a persuader in the form of a plastic or rubber hammer. It should not be so tight that you have to give it a big wack to move it but just light taps. At this point the table no longer moves when finishing the tightening.

Yes it does take practice getting things aligned and then adjusted and yes the method is more of an art form then scientific but it works for me and I've done this for years now and it does work, well at least for me.

I shoot for less then .005" but in most cases it pretty easy to get to about .003" and I never attempt to try and get that last couple of thousands, it is a case of diminishing return. The good news is I can go for years without needing to do it again. The bad news is you get out of practice so there is another reason to have a half dozen machines, they keep you tuned up.

Ed