Shopsmith Forums

Yea- I don't have anything in the way of doing this on either my main table or my aux table.
Luck of the draw for this particular application I guess.

b

Bainin,

Thanks. Yeah, for a platform that A LOT of us tend to think of as being unchanging and mostly the same over the decades, surprisingly has quite a few manufacturing variations over the years. I know Russ has done well in quantifying some of these in his posts from time to time for us (thanks Russ!), but still it is hard to keep track of all of the different versions of Mark V hardware. Sorry for any confusion in my prior post, but clearly it wouldn't have worked on my Mark V main table!

On a sample of two 520/M7 extension tables I checked, the front and rear extrusions were slightly proud, on both sides, of the 'straight' part of the table. (Which wasn't all that straight and may or may no be true to the blade.) This would be easy to remedy, but this ain't for me. It's a variation on the guide strip method that typically runs the strip on the fence, for me the con's outweigh the pro's. Mainly because I want to be able to observe that contact between the strip and whatever is acting as the fence so I know I'm guiding it straight and can adjust if needed.

The "Inspire Woodcraft" host bainin linked was working around a rip capacity limitation of his very nice cabinet saw. He described the more traditional guide strip cut at the beginning and I did not follow exactly why the other version was chosen. The 520/M7 (similar on 510) have an advertised rip capacity of 98" with stock accessories. (Even I wouldn't try this at home with only stock accessories though. ) So the limitation he was working around doesn't really apply to the Mark.

As I mentioned earlier, you can use the guide strip method on both ends if you're not comfortable with the material being between fence and blade.

ETA: After writing this, I thought 98" rip capacity? Can that be right? Comes from: https://www.shopsmith.com/markvsite/table_saw.htm And I quote:
The standard extension tables that come with your machine give you up to 102" of side-to-side support... and a ripping capacity of up to 98". That's over 8-feet of ripping width -- well beyond that of all but the most expensive commercial table saws! Its floating extension tables and telescopic support legs can also be configured to provide up to 72" of infeed-outfeed support for ripping long boards.

I'm not sure how you'd set the machine up to achieve this!
- David

Hmmm … I shudder to think!

Let’s see. Move headstock and main table all the way to the right. Install aux table on left end. Daisy-chain floating tabes to the left, using connector tubes and outboard support legs. Mount rip fence on farthest outboard floating table.

Who knows, that might get you 98” between the rip fence and the saw blade. Anyone want to try that cut?

Okay... the job is done... This SS never ceases to amaze me... God I love this thing. I had my Mark 5 and had used it some (small jobs) before I got the Mark 7 but never really got totally comfortable with using it. Especially something this big. I used the SS Crosscut Blade as well and it was like cutting butter... I have cut Walnut on other saws in the past and they seem to struggle with it. The Mark 7... Never bogged or burned or anything. The edge was amazing.

So I used the Woodshop Nerdy technique on YouTube [youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LLqtDnqKFjY[/youtube] and it worked flawlessly. Perfectly square and I was, and felt in complete control the entire cut. Then I adjusted and cut it to length as if it was a sheet of plywood. Never bound or even hinted at binding. Another very easy cut.

Then I ripped it to width and I was golden. Now I have several Dado cuts to make but that is another day. But I'm feeling much more confident that I can make those cuts on that table.

Thanks for all the ideas and techniques guys. I greatly appreciated them.

KCollins wrote: Sun Oct 23, 2022 4:58 pm Okay... the job is done... This SS never ceases to amaze me... God I love this thing. I had my Mark 5 and had used it some (small jobs) before I got the Mark 7 but never really got totally comfortable with using it. Especially something this big. I used the SS Crosscut Blade as well and it was like cutting butter... I have cut Walnut on other saws in the past and they seem to struggle with it. The Mark 7... Never bogged or burned or anything. The edge was amazing.

So I used the Woodshop Nerdy technique on YouTube [youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LLqtDnqKFjY[/youtube] and it worked flawlessly. Perfectly square and I was, and felt in complete control the entire cut. Then I adjusted and cut it to length as if it was a sheet of plywood. Never bound or even hinted at binding. Another very easy cut.

Then I ripped it to width and I was golden. Now I have several Dado cuts to make but that is another day. But I'm feeling much more confident that I can make those cuts on that table.

Thanks for all the ideas and techniques guys. I greatly appreciated them.

Kevin,

Glad it worked it out and you got the cut you were looking for. So, in the end, you used the technique that bainin suggested for the initial cut, right? I didn't realize you had a Mark 7 (PowerPro). Yeah, a PowerPro should have NO problem cutting through 3/4" walnut. IF it did, you should return it!