I was just thinking of another option that I will mention. The problem might be finding one the right size.
I don't know if you are familiar with tenon cutters. I got my first one to size the end of a cane I was making so I could fit a 3/4" tip on it. I have since gotten a few other sizes as needed, 3/8", 5/8", and 1". When looking on line I see that the smallest offered at MLCS is 3/8" but maybe someone else has them in say 1/4" or 5/16". The main page is:
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite ... tenon.html
If this sort of idea is of interest I can provide more details.
Ed
Project Help
Moderator: admin
I was going to edit my last post to add this reference to pictures of the cane, ( I have posted them before and then again about a year ago but we always have new people here who have not seen them). Anyway I can't seem to get the edit to work????
So here it is once again.
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=2708
Ed
So here it is once again.
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=2708
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
I reviewed this thread and learned that the Greene and Greene pegs are just rounded over on the part that shows. For some reason, I thought they had a pyramid shape. Since they are rounded over, a dowel steady rest will make this really easy. Sand the face with several different grits while the peg is spinning in the steady rest. Then use the chisel to make the dowel. Cut off the finished peg and advance the quill to start the next peg.bluekayak wrote:I should say that I do not know exactly what a Greene and Greene peg looks like ...
Jerry Floren
St. Peter, MN
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mickyd
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Found this site that shows Greene and Greene plugs being made. Good photos of the 'rounded' tip.bluekayak wrote:I reviewed this thread and learned that the Greene and Greene pegs are just rounded over on the part that shows. For some reason, I thought they had a pyramid shape. Since they are rounded over, a dowel steady rest will make this really easy. Sand the face with several different grits while the peg is spinning in the steady rest. Then use the chisel to make the dowel. Cut off the finished peg and advance the quill to start the next peg.
Jerry Floren
St. Peter, MN
(I thought from other photos I had seen online that they were pyramid shaped also.)
http://lumberjocks.com/ChicoWoodnut/blog/5921
Mike
Sunny San Diego
Sunny San Diego
I thought the same thing...mickyd wrote:Found this site that shows Greene and Greene plugs being made. Good photos of the 'rounded' tip.
(I thought from other photos I had seen online that they were pyramid shaped also.)
http://lumberjocks.com/ChicoWoodnut/blog/5921
Thanks for the link, Mike. I also found this at the LJ site:
http://lumberjocks.com/schroeder/blog/12085
But those square holes and getting them perfectly sized are still kind of intimidating. I'm wondering what will be more time consuming - taking a square peg, pillowing the end, and turning part of it round to fit in a round hole, or using a small hand chisel to make a square hole for the square peg?
I have some errands to run in town this morning after breakfast (and we're already getting a LATE start on that), but I'll fit in some experimentation today.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
The Quickest & Easiest Way
From my experiments, thinking about this is much more difficult than actually doing it. Once I started it was really easy, and I think you will find the same thing.
Start with a square dowel, that is much easier than trying to square up a round dowel.
The square dowel actually turns very nicely in the round hole. However, you probably should also wax the dowel.
Round off the face while the square dowel is spinning in the dowel steady rest.
Rounding off the square dowel with a sharp chisel is really easy, but if you have never turned before, you might have some concerns. Try it and be prepared to be plesantly surprised. Just gently easy the sharp chisel into the turning wood. Start at the slow (jig saw) speed. You can test how round it is by either stopping it, or by resting the flat part of the chisel on the part you are turning. Once it is rounded off, you can turn the speed up a bit.
The one challenge is getting the diameter of your turning to the proper size. A caliper would help, especially a vernier caliper. You might want to finish off with coarse sandpaper on a flat sanding block. You could actually have a front and back rest. The front rest would be for the chisel. When the work is close to the size you need (the size of the hole you will drill), finish off by putting the sandpaper on both rests. Then the turned portion on all the plugs have the same diameter.
Jerry Floren
St. Peter, MN
Start with a square dowel, that is much easier than trying to square up a round dowel.
The square dowel actually turns very nicely in the round hole. However, you probably should also wax the dowel.
Round off the face while the square dowel is spinning in the dowel steady rest.
Rounding off the square dowel with a sharp chisel is really easy, but if you have never turned before, you might have some concerns. Try it and be prepared to be plesantly surprised. Just gently easy the sharp chisel into the turning wood. Start at the slow (jig saw) speed. You can test how round it is by either stopping it, or by resting the flat part of the chisel on the part you are turning. Once it is rounded off, you can turn the speed up a bit.
The one challenge is getting the diameter of your turning to the proper size. A caliper would help, especially a vernier caliper. You might want to finish off with coarse sandpaper on a flat sanding block. You could actually have a front and back rest. The front rest would be for the chisel. When the work is close to the size you need (the size of the hole you will drill), finish off by putting the sandpaper on both rests. Then the turned portion on all the plugs have the same diameter.
Jerry Floren
St. Peter, MN
I spent most of the day in town yesterday and ended up having to do some emergency rust removal when I got home (another thread coming soon) so I didn't have much experimentation time last night. But, what I did get to do gave me a lot of confidence.
Making the square holes by hand with a chisel wasn't too hard. I drilled out the center of the hole with a bit slightly smaller than the width of the hole. Then cleaned out the corners with the chisel. Worked great!
I also came up with (what I believe) is a great way to make the square plugs. I was worried about this since they are so small - 5/16" square. Taking a small board that I wanted to use as my plug material, I used a dado blade (in my case, the Craftsman 8" wobble dado that I got with my used Mark V), to cut a rabbet where the material that was left was 5/16". I then set the rip fence on my table saw to 5/16" and ripped off a strip that was now 5/16" square. I made several test/practice cuts first to get the measurements right.
Then, over to the miter saw. I remembered the Wood Whisperer video where he used his saw with the bevel set to 15 degrees to cut his plugs. My miter saw isn't a "compound" one so I just set the miter to 15 degrees. I clamped a stop block to the table to butt the strip against. I then cut all 4 sides leaving a very short pyramid. Tear-out was a problem, but wrapping the end with blue painters tape helped a lot. Some fine sandpaper helped clean up the edges (sandpaper on a sanding block, sanding toward the tip of the pyramid only). Then I used a fine tooth hand saw and one of those cheap plastic miter guides to cut the end of the plugs off. Some more light sanding on the bottom edges to clean them up and give them a slight bevel to make it easier to get a tight fit in the hole. Adjust the stop block on the miter saw and repeat the process.
I'm liking how they're turning out. I've got 11 of the 12 I need cut so far (I'm only inside because LOML lured me in with some hot fresh peach cobbler!) I'm going to cut a few extra just in case. I picked up some ebony stain last night and will apply a coat or two to dry overnight while I work on the holes.
I'll post pictures later, but back to work for now!
Making the square holes by hand with a chisel wasn't too hard. I drilled out the center of the hole with a bit slightly smaller than the width of the hole. Then cleaned out the corners with the chisel. Worked great!
I also came up with (what I believe) is a great way to make the square plugs. I was worried about this since they are so small - 5/16" square. Taking a small board that I wanted to use as my plug material, I used a dado blade (in my case, the Craftsman 8" wobble dado that I got with my used Mark V), to cut a rabbet where the material that was left was 5/16". I then set the rip fence on my table saw to 5/16" and ripped off a strip that was now 5/16" square. I made several test/practice cuts first to get the measurements right.
Then, over to the miter saw. I remembered the Wood Whisperer video where he used his saw with the bevel set to 15 degrees to cut his plugs. My miter saw isn't a "compound" one so I just set the miter to 15 degrees. I clamped a stop block to the table to butt the strip against. I then cut all 4 sides leaving a very short pyramid. Tear-out was a problem, but wrapping the end with blue painters tape helped a lot. Some fine sandpaper helped clean up the edges (sandpaper on a sanding block, sanding toward the tip of the pyramid only). Then I used a fine tooth hand saw and one of those cheap plastic miter guides to cut the end of the plugs off. Some more light sanding on the bottom edges to clean them up and give them a slight bevel to make it easier to get a tight fit in the hole. Adjust the stop block on the miter saw and repeat the process.
I'm liking how they're turning out. I've got 11 of the 12 I need cut so far (I'm only inside because LOML lured me in with some hot fresh peach cobbler!) I'm going to cut a few extra just in case. I picked up some ebony stain last night and will apply a coat or two to dry overnight while I work on the holes.
I'll post pictures later, but back to work for now!
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Here are the pictures.
Here's the 5/16" square hole I cut in my scrap/prototype piece using a 9/32" drill bit and a 1/4" chisel.
First attempt at a plug by sanding it to size. A good try, but rough.
I didn't take a picture of the process for creating my 5/16" square by 12" long "dowel." So I hope the explanation in the previous post was good enough. I also didn't photograph the actual cutting of the "pyramid" with the miter saw, but here is the end of the dowel after each side was cut at a 15 degree angle. The focus isn't great, but the lighting shows the four sides.
Then I cut the end off with a hand saw and miter box.
Continued:
Here's the 5/16" square hole I cut in my scrap/prototype piece using a 9/32" drill bit and a 1/4" chisel.
First attempt at a plug by sanding it to size. A good try, but rough.
I didn't take a picture of the process for creating my 5/16" square by 12" long "dowel." So I hope the explanation in the previous post was good enough. I also didn't photograph the actual cutting of the "pyramid" with the miter saw, but here is the end of the dowel after each side was cut at a 15 degree angle. The focus isn't great, but the lighting shows the four sides.
Then I cut the end off with a hand saw and miter box.
Continued:
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
After cutting with hand saw:
Why didn't I cut them longer and make the hole deeper so I could handle them easier? Lack of experience, I reckon. I sure wish I had done that now! I don't know why I was so set on making them so short.
Do that 13 more times and I get...
I folded some freezer tape over to make it double sided and stuck each peg to it so they would be held in place while applied the stain using a paint brush for painting plastic models (another hobby of mine).
The sides are laid out with the center points marked and I'll cut the square holes tomorrow.
Why didn't I cut them longer and make the hole deeper so I could handle them easier? Lack of experience, I reckon. I sure wish I had done that now! I don't know why I was so set on making them so short.
Do that 13 more times and I get...
I folded some freezer tape over to make it double sided and stuck each peg to it so they would be held in place while applied the stain using a paint brush for painting plastic models (another hobby of mine).
The sides are laid out with the center points marked and I'll cut the square holes tomorrow.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
.