Router bits - Buy individually or buy a set???

[dkerfoot]

I am a believer in buying a medium-large set of cheap router bits and replacing the ones you wear out with top quality (Whiteside is my personal favorite).

Nothing is sadder than a high-quality tool that sits unused. On the other hand, I hate having to spend good money on a mediocre bit at the local hardware store because I got half-way into the project and realized I needed a profile I don't already have. By having a fairly large cheap set, you avoid this trap.

And yes, there will absolutely be some bits in a bigger set that you never use in your entire life. I look at those and am thankful that I didn't pay top-dollar for that profile in a Whiteside bit!

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[charlese]

Cheap or expensive? That is one question concerning tools! What do we need in our home shops? Another question is; What will work in our shops? A major answer to those questions is; What can we sharpen?

I now believe I know the difference between cheap and expensive tools. The major differences are in the steel used and workmanship. Duh!!

Router bits, bench chisels and hand planes all can be put into these two (cheap or expensive) categories. (Also drill bits and saw blades)

I think I also understand the major difference between run of the mill hand planes and the real good ones from Leigh Nielson/ Veritas. Besides the steel is the difference in the leveling (lapping) of the sole and other workmanship. However with a lot of hand work, a person can make a run of the mill plane/shave as well as the better tool.

A 'cheap' bench chisel can be turned into an excellent, very sharp tool with a little work of lapping and sharpening. The edge won't last as long as a higher quality chisel, but for a while it will perform just as well. Never think that a chisel is sharp, just because it is new.

NOW TO ROUTER BITS - Also - Just because a bit is new we should not anticipate that it is sharp! If we take care to carefully lap a 'cheap' router bit, it will perform as well as a high quality bit - at least for a while, until the poorer grade steel or carbide dulls.

Once again, we all need to learn to sharpen our tools!

[shipwright]

Complete agreement Chuck. The old boatbuilder I learned sharpening from had a saying; "If you can see the edge, you don't have one". I had very good eyes back then so by the time I could meet that standard I had very sharp tools. There's nothing like planing the seam edge of a twenty foot plank of clear yellow cedar and trying to get it all in one long shaving.

Paul M

[dkerfoot]

NOW TO ROUTER BITS - Also - Just because a bit is new we should not anticipate that it is sharp! If we take care to carefully lap a 'cheap' router bit, it will perform as well as a high quality bit - at least for a while, until the poorer grade steel or carbide dulls.

I generally agree regarding sharpening, but for those of us who have limited shop time, it is a balancing act. Every minute spent sharpening is a minute of woodworking missed. I have restored several old planes and love them once they are done, but am getting to the point where I stop and remind myself I enjoy woodworking, not metalworking.

As far as router bits, I would never for a moment consider using a steel bit now that carbide bits are cheap and plentiful. Life is too short for that! Likewise with lapping router bits. Carbide is simply too hard to gain noticeable improvement in what I would consider a reasonable amount of time.

Now, with all that said - If I were retired and had more shop time available, then I might approach it differently. Sharpening can be a rewarding task of its own, but for now I try to maximize my time applying the tool to wood. For that reason, I replace my cheaper bits and pay to have my high-end bits sharpened.

[machinistchest]

I only buy what I need at the time I need it.

In regards to resharpening I haven`t figured out how to regrind a 1/2" radious without changing that radious.

MC

[charlese]

In regards to resharpening I haven`t figured out how to regrind a 1/2" radius without changing that radius.
MC

You don't touch a stone or diamond paddle to the outside of the bit. Just re-flatten the flat part. Go back and read the attachment on this post. https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=60763&postcount=25

Yes, if there are some nicks in the sharp edge, a complete re-sharpening will, of course, shorten the radius by the depth of the deepest nick. Hopefully this won't be an amount large enough to matter.

On the other hand a HEAVY SHARPENING may be enough to turn a straight bit into one that will make a perfect dado or groove sized for plywood. That would require a lot of work and it is probably better to buy a plywood bit if money is available.

[wannabewoodworker]

Funny you should discuss the sharpening aspect. That has always been a thorn in my side and I have tried several different tools and methods to sharpen all of my tools and knives. This has been a maddening journey and i finally got fed up and lucky. I found a Tormek T7 sharpening system on Craigslist and contacted the woman who was selling it via a Tormek users group. I obviously was the first one to contact her as she told me she would hold it for me and right after that a bunch of guy's posted they would buy it as well. I got it very cheap and it included the hand tool accessory kit which by itself costs almost $300. I got the whole package shipped to me for $450.00 and it is virtually brand new she told me. She was planning to start a sharpening business but changed her mind after taking a course and decided to sell the equipment.

I should have the stuff tomorrow via UPS and I am pretty excited. I should now be able to put a keen edge on all of my knives and other tools without much brain power having to go into the exercise. I will probably acquire the woodworkers sharpening kit at some point that allows you to sharpen all your woodworking tools as well as moulder knife blades and jointer knife blades. I will post a pic if anybody cares to see the setup once I get it.