Shopsmith Forums

JPG40504 wrote:???Blade guides. ???upper guide adjustments proper. ???lower blade guide position relative to both wheel and upper guide.

All adjusted correctly as far as I can tell.

JPG40504 wrote:BTW are you attempting too small a radius cut for a 1/4" blade?(<3/4")

I don't think I am... It just seems that when I start a curve, the blade gets pulled to the side one way or the other a little far before it actually starts cutting a curve. But again, maybe it's my technique. This is one of those times where teaching myself is frustrating because I don't know if the problem lies in the equipment or me or both.

Heath;
Just an opinion and nothing more here. Did you check all of the components of the tensioning mechanism for possible cracks that would appear under tension? Remove the spring and put the upper end into a machinist's vice and with a large crescent wrench try to flex the spring to see if a crack opens up.Also with the blade under tension take a good look at the upper wheel lift arm and all of the related parts to check for cracks. I was looking at the spring in your first four pix and the bottom end of the spring seems to be bent too far. Could be one of my "optical delusions". If you have someone near you with a SS bandsaw you may want to swap out the spring as an experiment and see if anything changes.
Bill V

Heath;
Just a quick addition, I checked my saw and the spring does not deflect as much as yours. A new spring on the SS site is $6.23.
Bill V

[quote="wa2crk"]Heath]
The bottom end looks like it is bent too far, because it is bent too far. The screw is all the way 'tight'. That is why I said "stop doing that!".

I doubt the spring is cracked since reversing it makes no difference.

There is no cracking of the arm evident in the pix.

For $6.23, try a new spring(next time ya order something).

IMHO things appear to be 'normal'(or mine has the same condition as yours)!

JPG40504 wrote:IMHO things appear to be 'normal'(or mine has the same condition as yours)!

Maybe so. I just can't help but feel there is a lot of "slop" in the blade unless I tighten it up. I'll keep working at it, though.

heathicus wrote:Maybe so. I just can't help but feel there is a lot of "slop" in the blade unless I tighten it up. I'll keep working at it, though.

You are lowering the upper guide to near the top of the workpiece?

JPG40504 wrote:You are lowering the upper guide to near the top of the workpiece?

Yes. And the guide blocks are spaced from the blade as described in the user manual (distance of a piece of cellophane tape).

heathicus wrote:I measured last night and with both the 1/4" and 1/8" blades, when adjusted to a tension that felt right (tight, but not too tight), my wheels were right at 19" apart. I could easily deflect the blade at least 1/4" or more right above the table. And my tension gauge was well beyond the appropriate blade marking. I tried readjusting the indicator, but I can't move it any further in the correct direction.

I would suggest that you take the blade off and then adjust the tension mechanism as if you were trying to increase tension to maximum. Once there, lift the upper wheel as high as the mechanism will allow. This should put the top edge of the wheel about 1/4" below the top of the bandsaw housing.

If this works out - I don't know what might be wrong.

The upward motion is limited by a rib in the middle of the casting. With no blade, tightening the tension screw pushes the arm up against the rib. This occurs near the end of the screw's range.

JPG40504 wrote:The upward motion is limited by a rib in the middle of the casting. With no blade, tightening the tension screw pushes the arm up against the rib. This occurs near the end of the screw's range.

I think that we are in total agreement here.