Shopsmith Forums

JPG40504 wrote: FWIW I would file a small flat on the tubes so that the burring caused by the set screws(cup or serrated cup) would not interfere with later removal of the tubes or score the bore of the castings as they are removed.

I think that this would be an excellent solution for a non problem. I don't know about you but I don't expect to be pulling those tubes and reinserting them on a weekly basis. A minor score or two inside of those sockets "will not" affect the alignment of the machine. They are a great machine but they are "not" built to that kind of super specs. It is an easy matter to remove any burr before reassembly.
All of the tubes on the units I bought did not show any traces of ever having been apart and reassembled in a different spot and I assume most if not all had never been apart before I bought them. The ones I refurbished and reassembled will likely never be apart again in my lifetime. Yes the tie bar does get removed for headstock repairs sometimes but I still think the setscrew marks are a non problem.
Then again some folks would use a try square to check their toast before buttering it...

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robinson46176 wrote:I think that this would be an excellent solution for a non problem. I don't know about you but I don't expect to be pulling those tubes and reinserting them on a weekly basis. A minor score or two inside of those sockets "will not" affect the alignment of the machine. They are a great machine but they are "not" built to that kind of super specs. It is an easy matter to remove any burr before reassembly.
All of the tubes on the units I bought did not show any traces of ever having been apart and reassembled in a different spot and I assume most if not all had never been apart before I bought them. The ones I refurbished and reassembled will likely never be apart again in my lifetime. Yes the tie bar does get removed for headstock repairs sometimes but I still think the setscrew marks are a non problem.
Then again some folks would use a try square to check their toast before buttering it...

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No burrs removes the temptation to use a 'hammer'! I agree with most of the above. Just a matter of pickiness!;)

Hm, I wonder if we're all talking the same things here.

I for one take things on and off of my shopsmith constantly. Those tubes are going up and down in their recepticals sometimes several times a day, and get locked and unlocked every time I do that. That's why I bought a shopsmith, for the ability to do just that. As do many other users, I suspect.

That's what I was talking about with regards to the locks and serrations and such. The spinning tube handle/lock thingie presses smooth flatish feet against the tubes, locking whatever I'm setting up at the moment (lathe tailstock, bandsaw, extension table, etc). Having a flat spot ground into the tube for the "perfect" location is a non-sequitor as that "perfect" spot will frequently change with application. Nor do I want those tubes roughened up from serrated teeth cutting into them, because I use that smooth sliding action to get things adjusted just the way I want.

On the other hand, perhaps you all are talking about the same tube, but the set screws in the base of the accessory, that you use to align the tubes with. Those do dig into the tubes, locking it quite nicely. Those set screws are hardened and have a sharp cutting end. Most, if not all of my used accessories, show scars on the tubes from multiple readjustments. Be it from going to different units (not all my accessories came with my shopsmith), different owners, readjustments, maintenance, etc. Trying to grind a flat for that set screw to jam into would be pointless, as it already jams in. Drilling a hole in the tube for the set screw to go into would make for a weaker and sloppier joint.

Notice that there are no set screws that tighten down on a spot where either the carriage or the headstock slide. Burrs, whatever their cause, in these areas would be a BAD.

Burrs in locations like where the tie bar secures, or where the way tubes are locked into the Base Mount could be an issue BUT only if building up or tearing down a Mark V. Fortunately, most of us do not do that very often.

I still have a hard time understanding how this "alleged defect" could have contributed to the reported accident. Like so many lawsuits....the plaintiff appears to be the major contributor.

dusty wrote: Like so many lawsuits....the plaintiff appears to be the major contributor.

"Somebody planted a tree in the path of my car". "It's all their fault"...


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foxtrapper wrote:Hm, I wonder if we're all talking the same things here.

I for one take things on and off of my shopsmith constantly. Those tubes are going up and down in their recepticals sometimes several times a day, and get locked and unlocked every time I do that. That's why I bought a shopsmith, for the ability to do just that. As do many other users, I suspect.

That's what I was talking about with regards to the locks and serrations and such. The spinning tube handle/lock thingie presses smooth flatish feet against the tubes, locking whatever I'm setting up at the moment (lathe tailstock, bandsaw, extension table, etc). Having a flat spot ground into the tube for the "perfect" location is a non-sequitor as that "perfect" spot will frequently change with application. Nor do I want those tubes roughened up from serrated teeth cutting into them, because I use that smooth sliding action to get things adjusted just the way I want.

On the other hand, perhaps you all are talking about the same tube, but the set screws in the base of the accessory, that you use to align the tubes with. Those do dig into the tubes, locking it quite nicely. Those set screws are hardened and have a sharp cutting end. Most, if not all of my used accessories, show scars on the tubes from multiple readjustments. Be it from going to different units (not all my accessories came with my shopsmith), different owners, readjustments, maintenance, etc. Trying to grind a flat for that set screw to jam into would be pointless, as it already jams in. Drilling a hole in the tube for the set screw to go into would make for a weaker and sloppier joint.

My part of the discussion was in regards to the ends of the way tube in the end pivot and the tie-bar.
You are right, all of those other areas where we move them regularly do need to be treated with extra respect.
You don't want your Shopsmith to be named Rodney Dangerfield...

foxtrapper wrote: . . .
On the other hand, perhaps you all are talking about the same tube, but the set screws in the base of the accessory, that you use to align the tubes with. Those do dig into the tubes, locking it quite nicely. Those set screws are hardened and have a sharp cutting end. Most, if not all of my used accessories, show scars on the tubes from multiple readjustments. Be it from going to different units (not all my accessories came with my shopsmith), different owners, readjustments, maintenance, etc. Trying to grind a flat for that set screw to jam into would be pointless, as it already jams in. Drilling a hole in the tube for the set screw to go into would make for a weaker and sloppier joint.

The reason is to prevent the burrs created by that 'digging in' to not cause damage(yes Francis, it is slight) to the casting bore as they are subsequently removed. IMHO 'Flatting' is a good thing anywhere such 'digging in' occurs.

I Agree not a good thing, but not sure I agree it would be sloppier or weaker! It would depend upon how 'well' it was done. I do not recommend it anyway!

robinson46176 wrote:"Somebody planted a tree in the path of my car". "It's all their fault"...


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Sadly more 'typical' than not!:mad: