A Slow Boat To Nowhere

[algale]

As explained above... Bow and stern line attachment points for various purposes. Far more secure and stable than a deck or stem mounted ring. In my case the most likely use is for car topping.

[JPG]

Any chance/need to fill the interior with a block for greater support in the area of the 'hole'?

[jsburger]

I am not sure I could have LOL. There is no other way? Wow is all I can say. I trust you, but just Wow ....

Some folks put a piece of hardware like a ring on the deck or the very top of the stem but it just isn't nearly as secure an attachment method and if lining or towing the boat a high attachment makes it much more prone to capsizing according to folks with a lot more canoeing experience than I.

Believe me I dreaded doing it and my hands were shaking as I drilled
it.

I guess the question is why would you want to tow a canoe? When I hunted Mose in Quebec we went to the camp with a 22' freighter canoe with a 20HP motor. The small canoes (16') were upside on top of the freighter. I can not envision a case where I would want to tow a small canoe at any speed that would cause it to capsize or tow it at all. Just turn it upside down on the power boat.

In Quebec we had rapids that we had to unload the canoe and portage everything around including the canoe. If you ever have to portage your canoe you will love the yoke you made. It is perfect and you will be able to carry that canoe with no problem. That is assuming it is in the proper balance point bow to stern. Some of the smaller rapids we could rope the canoe. Leave most of the cargo in the canoe and tie a rope to the seat and let the canoe float down on its own with a little help/guidance. Pulling the canoe up through a rapid was more difficult. The force of the water with pulling on the rope would make the bow dive down. If you didn't slack up and pull gently the canoe would be sunk. It only happened once in 10 years.

All I can say is that I would never have done what you just did. However it is so nice and you should be VERY proud of it. As I said before I would love to be in that canoe by my self and paddle it.

[algale]

Any chance/need to fill the interior with a block for greater support in the area of the 'hole'?

The copper pipe is already epoxied in place so there is no chance of installing a block at this point. As for need for such reinforcement, I wouldn't think so -- I'd think the force on any line is going to be at the ends of the pipe which are supported by solid 1/4 thick wood reinforced on both sides with fiberglass. But I'm not an engineer let alone a naval engineer....

The designer of this canoe, Gil Gilpatrick, didn't mention a need for any reinforcement in his book, which describes this pipe installation, and I do know that there have been hundreds and probably thousands of his canoes built and used over the 35 years since he published the 1st edition, so I figure he knows what does and doesn't work.

[jsburger]

As explained above... Bow and stern line attachment points for various purposes. Far more secure and stable than a deck or stem mounted ring. In my case the most likely use is for car topping.

As you said before it is very light. A couple of cargo straps and it should not be a problem.

[jsburger]

Any chance/need to fill the interior with a block for greater support in the area of the 'hole'?

The copper pipe is already epoxied in place so there is no chance of installing a block at this point. As for need for such reinforcement, I wouldn't think so -- I'd think the force on any line is going to be at the ends of the pipe which are supported by solid 1/4 thick wood reinforced on both sides with fiberglass. But I'm not an engineer let alone a naval engineer....

The designer of this canoe, Gil Gilpatrick, didn't mention a need for any reinforcement in his book, which describes this pipe installation, and I do know that there have been hundreds and probably thousands of his canoes built and used over the 35 years since he published the 1st edition, so I figure he knows what does and doesn't work.

I don't question the solidarity of it. I just question why it is needed. It seems to me a mar on an otherwise beautiful canoe. Don't get me wrong, it is still beautiful and those that don't know will still think it is perfect as I do.

[algale]

I am not sure I could have LOL. There is no other way? Wow is all I can say. I trust you, but just Wow ....

Some folks put a piece of hardware like a ring on the deck or the very top of the stem but it just isn't nearly as secure an attachment method and if lining or towing the boat a high attachment makes it much more prone to capsizing according to folks with a lot more canoeing experience than I.

Believe me I dreaded doing it and my hands were shaking as I drilled
it.

I guess the question is why would you want to tow a canoe? When I hunted Mose in Quebec we went to the camp with a 22' freighter canoe with a 20HP motor. The small canoes (16') were upside on top of the freighter. I can not envision a case where I would want to tow a small canoe at any speed that would cause it to capsize or tow it at all. Just turn it upside down on the power boat.

In Quebec we had rapids that we had to unload the canoe and portage everything around including the canoe. If you ever have to portage your canoe you will love the yoke you made. It is perfect and you will be able to carry that canoe with no problem. That is assuming it is in the proper balance point bow to stern. Some of the smaller rapids we could rope the canoe. Leave most of the cargo in the canoe and tie a rope to the seat and let the canoe float down on its own with a little help/guidance. Pulling the canoe up through a rapid was more difficult. The force of the water with pulling on the rope would make the bow dive down. If you didn't slack up and pull gently the canoe would be sunk. It only happened once in 10 years.

All I can say is that I would never have done what you just did. However it is so nice and you should be VERY proud of it. As I said before I would love to be in that canoe by my self and paddle it.

I may never tow it or even line it through the rapids. On the other hand, I will car top it every time I take it out and these pipes will make for very secure bow and stern lines (in addition to the two belly lines I will use for car topping). You have far more canoing experience than I, but I read a number of post on various canoe forums where people installed a pipe like this (there's even a commercial product based on the same idea available for installing in canoes that don't come with a hole for attaching lines). Perhaps they are all wrong. Too late now, however.

[shipwright]

I like the low centre of pull. It makes a lot of sense and the through hole is much cleaner than any external eye or cleat. As far as strength is concerned the epoxy will take care of that. It may be the strongest part of the boat because it forms a rigid triangle. If you really wanted to reinforce it you could filet the pipe on the inside but I really doubt the need.

I like it a lot!

[BuckeyeDennis]

It's definitely an eye-of-the-beholder thing. The engineer in me likes it a lot, functionally. I also think it I will like it aesthetically, especially if the tubing ends have nice clean/polished ends.

And besides, there is good precedent for installing round fittings on beautiful wooden boats.

image.jpeg (1.1 MiB) Viewed 6453 times

[algale]

It's definitely an eye-of-the-beholder thing. The engineer in me likes it a lot, functionally. I also think it I will like it aesthetically, especially if the tubing ends have nice clean/polished ends.

And besides, there is good precedent for installing round fittings on beautiful wooden boats.

image.jpeg

Is that your runabout? Absolutely breathtaking!