Shopsmith Forums

The ferrule has no taper at all. It is not intended to keep the blade in, just to strengthen the area and to keep the wood from splitting or chipping away.

If you own any shopsmith lathe tools take a look at them, they are the same way. All the lathe tools I own are that way but I can't say that some some buddy else might do it different.

I need to order two more ferrules anyway to finish up the other two tools. No $$ until the weekend so this is now officially on hold for a while.

Ed

I'm a novice in this but is it possible to cut a hole in a piece of two by lumber the size of the wood insert and the place it over the brass and continue to press it on or tap the wood against the brass. Like I said a novice.

A counterbore might work. A through hole the size of the handle and a larger hole the od of the ferrule. It would need to be 'hard' wood.

Probably not a good thing unless a scrap piece is available.

wrmnfzy wrote:I'm a novice in this but is it possible to cut a hole in a piece of two by lumber the size of the wood insert and the place it over the brass and continue to press it on or tap the wood against the brass. Like I said a novice.

This is how I do it if I cut the tenon too long.

If too short, I either trim or use epoxy to fill the void.

I use 3/4" copper pipe for ferrules. (I'm too cheap to go buy brass ones), some also use brass or copper fittings. I have a section of copper pipe that has been sitting around so I use that when I need a ferrule.

Possibly under the "too much info" / "thread creep" category:

If you happen to have a tool that you can finish-turn after putting the ferrule on, it can be taken to the next level:

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I had thought about doing this but wondered if the plywood scrap I have would hold up. This morning when I read you message I figured I'd give it a go.

Found a drill bit the was almost a perfect size, just smaller then the brass. Drill in about an 3/16" to allow the extra tendon to come through and some room for compression. Added the 1/4" through hole and it was done.

It worked but a piece of hardwood would do a much better job, when I can get to my scrap bin I'll look for some oak or other hardwood.

Ed

wrmnfzy wrote:I'm a novice in this but is it possible to cut a hole in a piece of two by lumber the size of the wood insert and the place it over the brass and continue to press it on or tap the wood against the brass. Like I said a novice.

The added detail is nice. I hope I can remember this when I do a screwdriver project (another thing I like to do).

I guess another option would be to turn the brass before hand. I could do that for my next two tools.


I don't think I'll try on the lathe tools I've already done as re-chucking would be a lot of effort at this point.

Ed

nuhobby wrote:Possibly under the "too much info" / "thread creep" category:

If you happen to have a tool that you can finish-turn after putting the ferrule on, it can be taken to the next level:

[ATTACH]24627[/ATTACH]

Here is some other information that might interest some of you. Especially if you like wood handles on your lathe tools. You could save some money if your time is free and you don't mind the efforts.

If you don't feel like turning your own handles you can buy them pre-turned but you will need to drill your own hole to fit the tool. Here is a reference for some ash ones in 12", 15-1/2" and 17".

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/7/2 ... ool-Handle

Two sizes of ferrules are here if you want to go that route.

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/7/2 ... le-Ferrule

These are the ferrules I've used in this thread.

If you want the wood and the ferrules here is an example:

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/2/- ... dle-Blanks

You can also buy unhandled tools. As an example I'm looking at a Easy Detailer, the mid-sized one costs $94.99 or $118.99 with the handle.

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/7/2 ... y-Detailer

These are only examples and there are a lot of options to chose from out there.

Ed

Just finished another tool. This it is a drill bit in a handle.

This is still lathe related. This is one way to mark the depth of a bowl, find the depth you need, mark the bit, drill in that far and then stop when the drilled hole runs out.

The one I referenced used a 3/8" bit so I follows that lead. As you will it is a brad point but I'm thinking a regular bit would work as well. Just remember to account for the brad point in your planning.

The tool is just under 15" long, handle made of ash. The stop is part of a set of 7 split ring collar I have for just this sort of thing.

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Will give it a try after the epoxy has time to setup. I really like the shape of the new handle for this application, feels good in my hand.

Ed

I used to be a stone carver back in the 90s, and I happened upon something called oil hardening drill rod. Heat it red, beat it out, sharpen and do whatever, then heat it red, quench in old motor oil, then temper after sanding it shiny by holding it over a gas cook stove till it turns gold, then let it cool. That was just like Mr. Davenport taught us in 8th grade metal shop. I made many an air chisel bit that way, and that oil hardening rod will hold its edge under some real punishment. I got the stuff at Grainger.

I know many gunsmiths don't much like stainless, and I've not found many stainless knives I like very much, for what it's worth. I still have some of that drill rod left over, and I know once I start turning wood, I'll have to make some specialized lathe knives.


Old buck saws are made of good steel, but they are likely not thick enough. Old mill bastard files might be the best bet, long as one is patient and doesn't heat it too much while grinding.

Nice work on the handles and ferrules, gents!