billmayo wrote:The first Greenies (1954-1955?) had a solid drive sleeve hub. I have only found a few of these solid hubs which I removed and replaced with the drive sleeve clutch as the Gilmer belt had lost all of its teeth on each one or broke.
The Gilmer clutch is a finely designed unit with very close tolerances. It took me many years to find a way to add an additional clutch disk and plate to make up for the worn disks. These disks and plates are only available from used units. I never found a new replacement for them. I find 10-20 ft pounds of torque is needed to allow the clutch to function (slip) correctly. Almost all Gilmer clutches I test are frozen from from years of no slippage. I find a few that no longer proving any drive force (mostly slipping).
What do you reccommend based on what I have wrote in the last few posts. I don't have a way to test this one.
My quick way of testing the Gilmer clutch function in the headstock is to jam a plastic 1" wedge (big box stores for window and door frames) between the gilmer belt and the headstock top open space with the motor off. I mount the sanding disk on the arbor and turn in the direction to force the wedge between the belt and housing stopping the belt from moving. If unable to turn the sanding disk, then the clutch is frozen. Do not apply too much force as you can tear the teeth off the Gilmer belt. This allows me to test the condition of the Gilmer belt to see if it needs replacing. It should be somewhat easy to turn the sanding disk if the cluthch is working. If very easy (no effort) to turn, then the clutch needs rebuilding or replacing. I do have rebuilt and tested Gilmer Drives if anyone is interested or I can rebuild yours. Contact me at my Email address for more information.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
I need to purchase the bearings. Do I need to get them through SS or would a local bearing supply have them?
Is there a breakdown of exactly what to ask for in a bearing, or just use the existing number on the old bearing and they could cross match from there?
mrhart wrote:I need to purchase the bearings. Do I need to get them through SS or would a local bearing supply have them?
Is there a breakdown of exactly what to ask for in a bearing, or just use the existing number on the old bearing and they could cross match from there?
I recommend buying (2) 6205-ZZ-Premium Bearings 25x52, 6205Z/C3, ABEC 3 + from usabearingsbelts Ebay item # 390250795688. I have been buying and using these Drive Sleeve bearings from this supplier for years.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
My quick way of testing the Gilmer clutch function in the headstock is to jam a plastic 1" wedge (big box stores for window and door frames) between the gilmer belt and the headstock top open space with the motor off. I mount the sanding disk on the arbor and turn in the direction to force the wedge between the belt and housing stopping the belt from moving. If unable to turn the sanding disk, then the clutch is frozen. Do not apply too much force as you can tear the teeth off the Gilmer belt. This allows me to test the condition of the Gilmer belt to see if it needs replacing. It should be somewhat easy to turn the sanding disk if the cluthch is working. If very easy (no effort) to turn, then the clutch needs rebuilding or replacing. I do have rebuilt and tested Gilmer Drives if anyone is interested or I can rebuild yours. Contact me at my Email address for more information.
I used to have an 8' brush cutting mower that used a similar clutch to protect the tractor drive-line only it was much bigger, about 10" across. You checked its setting by temperature. They said to run it a while under load then "carefully" feel the unit. If it was just warm it was OK. If it was hot it was slipping too much. You were to tighten it a half turn at a time until it ran just warm. If it was cold it was not slipping at all. If so you were to loosen it a half turn at a time until it was getting warm. It came with its own big wrench to adjust it with.
Really scientific huh?
.
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
mrhart wrote:What about the bearing in my single quill?
I'm pretty sure the number for the quill bearing is 1623-2RS. I've found it very useful to get a reasonably priced caliper both for shop use & for measuring bearing dimensions. If you have the dimensions, it doesn't matter if you forget to keep a list of which bearings go where. (like I obviously have)
Maybe someone can confirm the number I listed as quill bearing.
Many bearing sources on ebay offer free shipping.
My dad's 1951 10er, 2 more 10er's, same vintage, a Goldie MK5, a 510 shortie with 34inch tubes, bandsaw, jointer, jigsaw, belt sander, a ton of small SS goodies and still looking...you just can't have enough Shopsmith stuff
The single bearing quill takes a 5/8" X 35mm X 11mm bearing. I try to find a ABEC3 rated bearing. You can get a sealed (rubber) bearing 6202Z-2RS-10 or a shielded (metal) bearing 6202ZZ. The original Mark V quill bearing was a 202KDD5 C1 bearing which is the best bearing. Many of these early greenie quill bearings are still operating with little play. They have became very difficult to find and are very expensive.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
billmayo wrote:The single bearing quill takes a 5/8" X 35mm X 11mm bearing. I try to find a ABEC3 rated bearing. You can get a sealed (rubber) bearing 6202Z-2RS-10 or a shielded (metal) bearing 6202ZZ. The original Mark V quill bearing was a 202KDD5 C1 bearing which is the best bearing. Many of these early greenie quill bearings are still operating with little play. They have became very difficult to find and are very expensive.
