The greenie parts that I have are not consistent. I have attributed that to fading.
Nice to see an original(all same date) set of parts.
I seem to have some Mark 2 parts that are green as well.

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Hopefully Mike I will be blasting my Greenie this week if the weather will cooperate, will post pictures, past experience results in parts that look like raw new castings.oldiron wrote:When possible, can someone post pictures of soda blasting aluminum parts of the shopsmiths. I've been thinking of buying a soda blaster and would like to see the results!
Mike
Making Progress, the darker green is as follows.JPG wrote:This should prove interesting!!!jjbuzard wrote:OK so the Verde is close to the Darker Green, but the lighter color is also GREEN, not silver, I pulled the cover off the end and used rubbing compound on the inside where it hasn't faded to hold up color chips to to find out the true color, upon settling on this paint chip and because it was easier to use one of the outside pieces which also weren't faded to show thew comparison, I chose the Tail Stock, rubbed it out and then clamped it in the vise and held the chip next to it. I went through years of color chips and this is an almost perfect match.JPG wrote:Verde Green and silver both hammered by rustoleum are close.
It is definitely Light Green, this color is 1968 - 1972 Freightliner "Pinehurst Green Poly", so because I can't get this mixed in Hammered Finish, I will take a quart of Rust-o-lium Verde Green Hammered and add Rust-o-lium Silver Hammered until it matches this chip.I will record how much of each color it takes to match. You can buy the Hammered in quarts and when spraying thin it to spraying consistency with Xylol, a fast drying thinner.
School colors would be easier!dusty wrote:Thanks for the information about soda blasting you have provided in this thread and others.
I just blew my budget for other items so the blaster will have wait BUT I am going to get one. I just may strip down my Shorty and redo it (in school colors, maybe).