Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.
wannabewoodworker wrote:Well I just got finished ordering up all the parts for the bearing retrofit on my bandsaw. Figured since my Table Retrofit kit is in back order limbo I would do something else while I wait FOREVER for SS to ship my table kit. I did however get the extension table for the aluminum table today although it won't do me any good until the table itself shows up. I currently am using cool blocks and was wondering if you folks thought that the ceramic blocks were any better than the cool blocks for keeping the blade tracking straight? I had the saw tracking perfectly when i first got it but it has somehow gotten out of the perfect alignment that I had originally aligned it to. I am seeing a lot of blade drift now that i was not seeing before for some reason? I was able to resaw pretty thin pieces before but now the saw doesn't seem to want to cooperate. I think that part of the problem is the blade it self.
Can a bandsaw blade be sharpened in the shop or is this something better left to a sharpening service or is it better to just spring for a new blade as they are not all that expensive???
I just changed blades lately, after over 2 years of occasional use on the last one. I think what did mine in was a recent MDF-cutting job (really should use carbide blades with MDF). Anyway, I do consider them affordable enough to lend to my changing types and styles occasionally to see what best suits my needs. A new blade is a very pleasant change when you treat yourself to it. I've never seriously looked into re-sharpening bandsaw blades.
For minimized noise, I find the main (double) blade bearing (nearest the tension-adjust system) to be quite sensitive to alignment. I spend a little time (unplugged) free-wheeling the bandsaw to see how the blade "likes" to go without that bearing-pair. Then I align the bearing-pair to get the valley well-matched to the blade path.
I'm using ceramic guide-blocks from Bill Mayo. I think they're what you want if you're doing heavy-duty work. I tend to associate the Cool Blocks with direct-contacts on thinner blades, but some folks on this forum use them for all types of blades, even bigger ones.
I wanted to resurrect this thread for a couple of reasons:
1- I'm a SS newbie with a used bandsaw that I have several questions about.
2-Wanted to see if anyone had any left-over parts for sale for the dual bearing mod for the tensioning and guide bearings (specifically the McMaster's shims and bronze bushings- I can get bearings easily).
I've never owned a bandsaw, so this is all new (I'm up to speed on most other woodworking tools,though). The blade currently on the saw is a 3/8". I see no bends or kinks. It look good and is sharp. The tires are rubber and seem to be in decent shape.The wheels are free-turning.
When I run the saw, the tensioning bearing (a single) is not touching the blade at all.The blade is deflecting from side to side about 1/4". Is this normal? Will the switch to dual bearings help this, or is it an adjustment issue? There is also a repetitive loud click. Is this a blade imperfection?
I have always been bandsaw challenged and I just learned to live with the fact that my cuts were never to be for anything but rough work. I just recently did this double bearing upgrade and spent a lot of time understanding all the adjustments of my saw. I can say that the bandsaw is now one of my go to tools. Take your time and understand all the adjustments and then the double bearings will make even resawing a breeze.
I have 4 bearings, 4- 1/4 x 20 bolts, 3-of the .125 Steel Shims and 4-of the .0625 steel shims that you are welcome to. All are from McMaster-Carr direct from the diagram from this thread.
fgrule wrote: . . .
When I run the saw, the tensioning bearing (a single) is not touching the blade at all.The blade is deflecting from side to side about 1/4". Is this normal? Will the switch to dual bearings help this, or is it an adjustment issue? There is also a repetitive loud click. Is this a blade imperfection?
Thanks for any help....and suggestions!
Fred
If you are referring to the upper left single bearing, it is a 'guide' bearing. Tension is applied by means of the spring bar and is adjusted by means of the screw at the rear. The spring bar pulls the upper wheel 'up'.
Side to side deflection is puzzling unless the blade is bent/kinked. That could cause a 'click'.
I think we need pix.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Just curious as to the number of folks that have made the two bearing modification to their saws since I posted the modification back in 08 and if it worked well for you?
ldh wrote:Just curious as to the number of folks that have made the two bearing modification to their saws since I posted the modification back in 08 and if it worked well for you?
ldh
I think I was the first person to do it and it works great, and I originally purchased enough to do 10 saws. I have no spare parts left so I assume at least 9 others did it also.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
JPG40504 wrote:If you are referring to the upper left single bearing, it is a 'guide' bearing. Tension is applied by means of the spring bar and is adjusted by means of the screw at the rear. The spring bar pulls the upper wheel 'up'.
Side to side deflection is puzzling unless the blade is bent/kinked. That could cause a 'click'.
I think we need pix.
Yes, I'm referring to the upper left single bearing. I had seen it referred to as as the "tensioner" bearing, I assume to nail down it's location. I am familiar with the tensioning process and how that works. Sorry for the confusion.
Can you think of any other reason (than a bent/kinked blade) why the blade is not going from the lower wheel to the upper wheel in a straight line?
Guess I need to try a new blade first. Should following your post on adjustments help? Or dual bearings?
Also, should the blade touch all 3 bearings when running, but not cutting?
Fred
The blade should touch the guide bearing (upper left) at all times. The purpose of this bearing is to guide the blade on to the upper wheel. The two backup bearings are to keep the spine of the blade from flexing. The spine of the blade is the area of the blade directly behind the teeth. The spine of the blade should not touch the bearings but should be very close, about the thickness of a business card. The backup bearings also serve to keep the blade on the wheels when pressure is put on the teeth when cutting.
The spine of the blade should be 90 degrees to the table as it goes from the upper wheel to the lower wheel. If it is not then the guide post should be adjusted as per the manual. The post is the assembly that you adjust for the thickness of the material. The guide blocks should be adjusted to ride just behind the gullet of the teeth but not touching any part of the tooth.
A good test of a bandsaw is to place a 2X4 on edge and make a cut. The blade should exit the cut uniformly from top to bottom. Make sure that the
2X4 is reasonably square when you do this
Check to see if the blade remains in the same location on the upper wheel after it passes the guide bearing. It should. If not then check for a bent wheel.
Also do not use a generic band saw book to align a SS bandsaw. They do not apply because the SS bandsaw with the self tracking feature is a different animal.
Bill V
This might be a good time to establish proper terminology:
The bearing on the left, near the blade tension scale, is commonly referred to as the Auto-Track Roller Bearing. It's position is adjustable side to side but not in and out. This essentially means that the position of the blade is fixed (non-adjustable).
The other bearings (two locations) are typically referred to as the Lower Blade Guide Roller Bearing(s) or the Upper Blade Guide Roller Bearing(s). Associated with these bearings are the guide blocks (aka cool blocks).
If your bandsaw has not been modified to change the bearing configuration, the Auti-Track Roller Bearing is a two bearing arrangement and the two Guide Roller Bearings are each single bearings. Some have modified this configuration to utilize a pair of bearings (different bearings) at each of the Guide Roller Bearing positions.
Proper Terminology: Is apparently subject to interpretation. I just noticed that some of the parts being discussed here are referred to by different names in the online parts catalog.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
I noticed, and was confused by the terms used for the bearings. I'll use yours:
Auto-Track Roller Bearing
Lower Blade Guide Roller Bearing
Upper Blade Guide Roller Bearing.
One thing, you said "If your bandsaw has not been modified to change the bearing configuration, the Auti-Track Roller Bearing is a two bearing arrangement and the two Guide Roller Bearings are each single bearings. Some have modified this configuration to utilize a pair of bearings (different bearings) at each of the Guide Roller Bearing positions".
I'm looking at 2 saws, and both have single bearings in all 3 positions. And they are different styles of single bearings.... The auto-track roller bearing, being a single, was the main reason I was interested in the upgrade to duals.
Another question: my single auto-track bearing never makes contact with the blade (misses by a hair). Since it's not adjustable forward and back, should I try a shim? When I lightly touch the back of the blade while it's running, it really smoothes things out (much less eccentric blade movement).
BillV,
Good info. I've done almost all of what you said, and things are looking better.
