Shopsmith Forums

JPG40504 wrote:If you are serious re mounting to wall, consider using TWO Mark 5/V tie bar. They are shorter(closer to the wall). Mount then so the clamp socket faces AWAY from the wall. U-bolts or some other attachment could be used.

5/14@20:14 EDT Emphasized MARK 5/V.

Hi,

I think you lost me.... the spacing of the tubes on a 10er are much smaller/shorter then the newer machines so how is this going to work?

Ed

reible wrote:Hi,

I think you lost me.... the spacing of the tubes on a 10er are much smaller/shorter then the newer machines so how is this going to work?

Ed

HOOOOKAY! If they are on closer centers, this will NOT work. I did not know the spacing was different!:o Just as a point of enlightenment, What IS the spacing on a 10 E/R???

This is what happens when one makes assumptions! I do NOT recall this coming up B4.

JPG40504 wrote:HOOOOKAY! If they are on closer centers, this will NOT work. I did not know the spacing was different!:o Just as a point of enlightenment, What IS the spacing on a 10 E/R???

This is what happens when one makes assumptions! I do NOT recall this coming up B4.

Hi,

My sample is 400 miles away but I'm sure someone can inform us of that spacing. I think this came up on one of the other forums or groups when I ask if the ring master would fit... the answer was no the tube spacing was wrong. Direct observation once I had one verified this.

However if one wanted to mount the machine in the vertical position on say a wall you might want to want to mount the base plate at the top so the hinge would be at the top. This would require you to swap the headstock so the chuck would face the floor. The headrest and tie bar would then be at the bottom.

The tubes would need to be spaced from the wall so the motor will have room to move and the base plate and headrest would provide that.

The table should be able to be mounted to work that way as well but without one to really look at someone else would need to check this switch-a-rew to make sure it would work.

Ed

The MKV tubes are appox. 1 3/4 inches wider than an ER so you cannot switch a lot of the parts. There is someone on the sites that make an adaptor so you can adapt a MKV table to an ER but it takes some adaption.
Tubes are close to the same size but the ER tubes are shorter.

wlhayesmfs wrote:The MKV tubes are appox. 1 3/4 inches wider than an ER so you cannot switch a lot of the parts. There is someone on the sites that make an adaptor so you can adapt a MKV table to an ER but it takes some adaption.
Tubes are close to the same size but the ER tubes are shorter.

Shorter??? Are there more there more than one size(length). My Mark 5 way tubes are 52". I purchased 10 E/R tubes. They are 52". Both are 1 3/4" OD. The Mark 5 are 1 1/2" ID. The 10 E/R are 1 3/8" ID. The 10 E/R has less traverse length because the end castings are onto the way tubes, whereas the Mark 5/V are 'off the end' of the tubes.

BTW I overlooked the location of the motor on a 10 E/R so my earlier post(s) are NOT workable!!!!!

I have a Mark V for sell if anyone is interested. I'm asking $850 for it. You can call at 850-496-2007 or email me at jandkdemoss@gmail.com to see pics.
Thx

jandkdemoss wrote:I have a Mark V for sell if anyone is interested. I'm asking $850 for it. You can call at 850-496-2007 or email me at jandkdemoss@gmail.com to see pics.
Thx

OK! I'll be the 'enforcer' this time.

The sponsor of this forum does not provide a 'trading post' section because that is not an activity they wish to support or provide.

That said, a more appropriate place to attempt to sell it is on e-bay or craigslist...

Great job on both projects. You are providing encouragement to someone who is just beginning a first renovation. I really appreciate the way tubes rust removal link. I actually put mine in a potato solution (I already had the PVC for some fishing poles we took on vacation) but in the meantime have located a store in my area with Evapo-Rust and will hopefully pick some up this weekend. Thanks for sharing.

cwertz wrote:Great job on both projects. You are providing encouragement to someone who is just beginning a first renovation. I really appreciate the way tubes rust removal link. I actually put mine in a potato solution (I already had the PVC for some fishing poles we took on vacation) but in the meantime have located a store in my area with Evapo-Rust and will hopefully pick some up this weekend. Thanks for sharing.

Believe me the Evaporust is preferred! It is faster and can be reused. You will have no desire to 'reuse' the potato soup!:eek: I tried the potato on one tube first(for over a week), then did a second one in evaporust(overnight) then redid the first overnite in evaporust. I prefer the evaporust over electrolysis for two reasons. The sewer pipe(s) take up little room. The procedure also removes any rust from the inside of the tube as well.

Also if not polishing right away, the evaporust can be left on to dry and it acts as a short term rust preventative.