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Posted: Mon Jun 24, 2013 1:01 pm
by charlese
[quote="JPG40504"]It Ain't intended for use with a wobble blade!!!!!!!:eek:
Doing so will be detrimental to the jig(and the pride of the operator who tries to).]
So- - In order to use the I-Box I would need to buy a fixed dado blade?:eek: . Geeze! another $100 in order to go with an I-box.
!
Wonder how the I-Box would work with one of those 1/8" to 3/8" expanding dados?
Posted: Mon Jun 24, 2013 1:33 pm
by JPG
charlese wrote:So- - In order to use the I-Box I would need to buy a fixed dado blade?:eek: . Geeze! another $100 in order to go with an I-box.
!
Wonder how the I-Box would work with one of those 1/8" to 3/8" expanding dados?
You
might be able to use it by aligning it differently.
Where the 'normal' procedure has you adjust the i-box to the 'arbor' side(I do not want to get into that left/right//inside/outside muck again) of the blade, do so with the wobble blade positioned at its max position in that direction.
Then I think the rest of the 'normal' procedure will work.
I say 'MIGHT' since this is all mental exercise on my part.
It would be nice for Charlese if someone with a wobble blade and an ibox would verify this.
hint;) hint:D
Posted: Mon Jun 24, 2013 2:54 pm
by reible
My plan is to get a different set of blades and use this for 1/4" and 3/8" cuts.
Most dado blades are for cutting what? Dado's. I know that my set leaves bat ears so I will be ordering one of the sets mentioned in the Incra booklet.
The most likely one is this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AS ... d_i=507846
But I haven't decided for "sure enough" to order it. Plus the project I have in mind is still off a bit.
Ed
Posted: Mon Jun 24, 2013 11:00 pm
by charlese
Hi, Ed! Yep that is the kind of dado outfit I was thinking of. I see in the details they have an offer for this blade set and the Ibox together.
Well, my wobble is still my favorite - flat bottoms, straight walls and no bat ears.
Posted: Fri Jul 05, 2013 11:10 am
by reible
After looking a several different box joint blade sets I ordered the Freud SBOX8 Box Joint Cutter Set.
It looks to be a good compromise on price and quality. Anyway sometime next week I will have one to look at and try out. Maybe I'll even do a little project for practice.
If I like this well enough I have to get another arbor to store it on. Would be nice to see them on sale again.
So far I've spent
Jig $169.99 + shipping 16.49 = $186.48
Blade set $81.73 free shipping = $81.73
Total $268.21
If I get an arbor that is $27.87 + shipping $8.49 = 36.36
Possible total $304.57
Nice to see where your tool budget goes, and how quickly it gets used up I guess.
Ed
Posted: Fri Jul 05, 2013 4:27 pm
by Gene Howe
Ed,
Had my Tenryu dado set reground to produce dead flat dados. I didn't want to be limited to the 3/8 width. Most boxes I make are 1/2".
Charles,
Can't remember where, but I remember a caution from I Tools to avoid a wobbler. If I see it again (manual maybe), I let you know.
Posted: Wed Aug 07, 2013 3:24 pm
by reible
A couple of posts back I mentioned picking up another arbor for this set up, it turns out they are sale now for $20.90. Just finished placing my order.
This little adventure has now cost me $297.60. It is hard for me to believe how much things cost now-a-days. And BTW I still have not made a project with it!
So if anyone else is in the market for another arbor you have until Sunday the 11 to order at the reduced price.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/specials/7DU442.htm
Ed
Posted: Tue Oct 15, 2013 7:59 am
by algale
reible wrote:I did here back this morning and I have news for you.
The problem is with the bar. The holes need to be countersunk and at least on mine they were not.
[ATTACH]21730[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]21731[/ATTACH]
I've modified mine as shown in the pictures below.
[ATTACH]21732[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]21733[/ATTACH]
Warning: The metal is very soft so go really slow (that is if you want to countersink your bar) and don't get carried away and make it too deep. The other option would be to send it back and get a replacement.
That small change made all the difference. I can now lock the miter bar in where as before I couldn't get a proper fit. So with the adjustment done properly it slides like I expected it to.
Mark also mentioned adding some grease on the treads might help. I did that too after making sure the countersink fix worked.
Slot location was also mentioned on the white disks.
"[font="]The orientation of the slots in the white discs makes a big difference...if you look at the bar from above, there's a "point" where the round edge of the disc pocket opens up at the edge of the miter bar, right where the pocket stops making contact with the edge of the disc - aim the slot directly at the point (this is roughly 2:00 or 4:00 for the discs on the right side of the bar and 8:00 or 10:00 for the discs on the left side of the bar). Or to phrase it differently, if you're looking at the side of the miter bar and you're looking at the edge of the disc in the pocket's opening, you should just barely see the slot at one edge of the opening in the side of the miter bar."
As for the other issue, mounting screw and guard bolt interference, they now have a new bolt with a shallower head, he will be shipping me out one to see. I guess you would need to contact him if you want one. I was almost going to say never mind but then I though I did pay $170 of this, why not.
I think we are all caught up with the issues to this point but feel free to keep the thread active.
Oh, one more thing, and this I thought was funny.[/font]
[ATTACH]21734[/ATTACH]
Ed
Reviving this thread. When this thread came out I noted that my v120 had the same issue. Last week I finally got around to calling Shopsmith about the issue and Shopsmith got in touch with "Mark" at Incra. Their current position is that they used to countersink the holes in the bar but sometime in 2012 switched to using an
undercut tapered screw head, which eliminates the need for the countersink in the bar. Apparently some units got out with the old standard taper head screws and no countersink. Some undercut screws are being shipped out to me and I will report back on whether this solves the "problem." As usual, great customer service from Jan at Shopsmith who got a v120, disassembled one of the expanding discs/screws and diagnosed the issue and then confirmed the change.
So if you have this issue, their may be two potential fixes: drilling the bar OR replacing the screws with undercut ones.
Al
Posted: Tue Oct 15, 2013 6:13 pm
by JPG
algale wrote:Reviving this thread. When this thread came out I noted that my v120 had the same issue. Last week I finally got around to calling Shopsmith about the issue and Shopsmith got in touch with "Mark" at Incra. Their current position is that they used to countersink the holes in the bar but sometime in 2012 switched to using an undercut tapered screw head, which eliminates the need for the countersink in the bar. Apparently some units got out with the old standard taper head screws and no countersink. Some undercut screws are being shipped out to me and I will report back on whether this solves the "problem." As usual, great customer service from Jan at Shopsmith who got a v120, disassembled one of the expanding discs/screws and diagnosed the issue and then confirmed the change.
So if you have this issue, their may be two potential fixes: drilling the bar OR replacing the screws with undercut ones.
Al
My 'vote' goes to undercut FH screws with full threads into the undercut!!!;)
Posted: Tue Oct 15, 2013 6:57 pm
by rcplaneguy
So for all of you who own and use this ibox, what do you think of the results? Perfect joints, all the time? Worth the money?