Jointer
Posted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 1:23 am
The jointer rebuild happened in a matter of days. The main reason for that is I didn't strip the paint off. There wasn't any rust that I could see in the casting and frankly I felt taking it down to bare metal just exposed more surface to potential rusting. So taping off the table and fence surfaces I went directly to paint. While that was drying I cleaned up the depth handle, fence mounting bar, and fence adjustment knob. I had previously cleaned the cutter head and waxed it to protect from oxidation.
My only major undertaking was getting the fence and tables cleaned up. I burned through several dremel abrasive heads; slow and blotchy. Then I traded up to a green scotch brite pad, WD40, and a palm sander. This worked quickly and effectively; nice to for something to be easy for a change.
Rebuild was easy and I even fixed the depth control that had been missing for nearly a decade. When you read the instructions, check the diagrams, and peruse such learned sources as this site you can't go wrong. I had found replacement bearings because mine seemed loud and I figured at $12-20 total (can't remember now) it couldn't hurt. Setting the knives was simple with some magnetic jigs I'd built a few years back; I'm sure everyone has some version of their own these days.
So the moment of truth arrived to fire it back up and I had a feeling of deja vu. 15 years ago my father brought me the Shopsmith with a warning to be careful when coupling the headstock to the jointer: "don't slam it over there or you'll crack the coupler!" First thing I did was crack the coupler. So 15 years later I listened to Pop, who was right as always, and carefully moved the headstock over. Whereupon I found that the headstock did not align correctly. The setscrew in the headrest needed to be raised up and a little manual movement got it set correctly. Then we couple up and, deep breath, throw that switch. The smooth purr of a jointer with good bearings and correct alignment filled the shop. Ran the speed up to jointer setting and everything worked. Sharp knives made short work of some ash and the final major piece of the rebuild was done.
Next major post will sum up some learning and recommendations.
My only major undertaking was getting the fence and tables cleaned up. I burned through several dremel abrasive heads; slow and blotchy. Then I traded up to a green scotch brite pad, WD40, and a palm sander. This worked quickly and effectively; nice to for something to be easy for a change.
Rebuild was easy and I even fixed the depth control that had been missing for nearly a decade. When you read the instructions, check the diagrams, and peruse such learned sources as this site you can't go wrong. I had found replacement bearings because mine seemed loud and I figured at $12-20 total (can't remember now) it couldn't hurt. Setting the knives was simple with some magnetic jigs I'd built a few years back; I'm sure everyone has some version of their own these days.
So the moment of truth arrived to fire it back up and I had a feeling of deja vu. 15 years ago my father brought me the Shopsmith with a warning to be careful when coupling the headstock to the jointer: "don't slam it over there or you'll crack the coupler!" First thing I did was crack the coupler. So 15 years later I listened to Pop, who was right as always, and carefully moved the headstock over. Whereupon I found that the headstock did not align correctly. The setscrew in the headrest needed to be raised up and a little manual movement got it set correctly. Then we couple up and, deep breath, throw that switch. The smooth purr of a jointer with good bearings and correct alignment filled the shop. Ran the speed up to jointer setting and everything worked. Sharp knives made short work of some ash and the final major piece of the rebuild was done.
Next major post will sum up some learning and recommendations.
