Shopsmith Forums

JPG wrote:

jsburger wrote:

JPG wrote:Miter slot further from the blade at the rear of the blade.

The workpiece will advance skewed to the sides of the blade, but the cutting will take place normally(angle wise but will create a slightly concave edge.

Miter slot closer to the blade at the rear of the blade.

The workpiece will advance towards the blade, but will interfere with the blade the further it advances. The workpiece will jam if restrained at the other end.

What the heck are you talking about? If my miter gauge is dead on at 45* and the table miter slot is off square with the blade by 1* then my cut is either 46* or 44* depending on the table error.

Think it through!

The 'angle' is determined by the angle of the workpiece relative to the direction of travel. Once past the cutting, the only thing happening is either the work piece clears the sides of the blade or interferes with it.

When alignment is correct, the direction of travel is parallel with the sides of the blade.

OK, I see what you mean now.

jsburger wrote:

JPG wrote:

jsburger wrote:

What the heck are you talking about? If my miter gauge is dead on at 45* and the table miter slot is off square with the blade by 1* then my cut is either 46* or 44* depending on the table error.

Think it through!

The 'angle' is determined by the angle of the workpiece relative to the direction of travel. Once past the cutting, the only thing happening is either the work piece clears the sides of the blade or interferes with it.

When alignment is correct, the direction of travel is parallel with the sides of the blade.

OK, I see what you mean now.

Are we over looking the cutoff that is on the other side of the blade? While one side of the kerf tends to move away from the blade, the other side tends to move toward the blade (binding)

Nope! The cutoff is part(while being cut) of the workpiece.

Granted it is less likely to cause inaccuracy.

I think we have answered your original??

Bottomline, incorrectly aligned miter slot will very likely doom using the miterset to failure.

JPG wrote:Nope! The cutoff is part(while being cut) of the workpiece.

Granted it is less likely to cause inaccuracy.

I think we have answered your original??

Bottomline, incorrectly aligned miter slot will very likely doom using the miterset to failure.

My initial reaction was that a mis-aligned miter slot will cause the cut to not be what the miter gauge was set to. While that is true there are other things going on as you pointed out. No matter how the angle of the miter gauge is set (Miterset or another method) a miss-aligned table miter slot will give the same incorrect results.

I ordered the set a while back, got the first set which was the ones with the narrow slots and then it was replaced with the new set which fits the miter bar as good as one could expect. I played with both of them and found that they did not really translate to an accurate miter. It was necessary to fine tune the miter using the set screws but it does give you a reference point to start with. I think the biggest issue is that the miter set channel is about 6" long and the miter slot on the saw table is roughly three times that so the miter bar will give a different cut when transferred from one to the other. If you are using an adjustable miter bar it does not work at all as the miter set is too short to engage all of the of the adjustment points. As I think Bill said 0.5 degree accuracy would not be adequate for any fine woodworking. The key to the mitering process is repeatability. The use of a single miter bar has an inherent accuracy issue as the bar must have some play in the slot in order to function. Applying a consistent and slight twisting pressure to the miter during the cut will eliminate most of that issue. The best solution will always be to use a sled which uses both miter slots and can give dependable and repeatable results. There are lots of YouTube videos on how to build a sled with an adjustable protractor. But no matter what method you decide to use there will be some fine tuning to achieve a perfect miter. I think the MiterSet for both rings and standard miters give a nice starting reference which does speed the process up.
Paul

I think that you are confusing accuracy with adjustability. The standard Miterset can be adjusted in 1/2 degree increments, but has to be much more accurate than that, although the accuracy is not stated on their website or Shopsmith's.

Mike

The miterset(standard) has pin holes every 5°. The bar allows adjusting to 5 additional equally spaces angles(0.5°)[± 2.5°)

That is the "Resolution". i.e. 0.5°.

The accuracy is determined by the spacing of the holes and the machined area of the bar. A much finer(smaller) deviation.

Repeatability with no moving parts is primarily a matter of technique.

Izzy gives it [THUMBS UP SIGN][THUMBS UP SIGN].

https://youtu.be/jfPD6MC0mV0

Skizzity wrote:Izzy gives it [THUMBS UP SIGN][THUMBS UP SIGN].

https://youtu.be/jfPD6MC0mV0

His is not the only video that shows the precise accuracy of the Miterset. Quite a few here have said the same thing. I don't know why masonsailor2 feels differently. But that is his opinion and I respect it.

Has anyone seen a negative review of the Miterset?