Shopsmith Forums

JPG wrote:Actually table/blade tilt has nothing to do with proper setup. The blade tilt was used in the instructions as a more obvious indicator for 'normal' saw setups. It fails to do that with a SS.

What matters is the direction a dado blade 'grows' with increasing kerf width.

With a 'tilt left' saw, the location of the left side of the blade/kerf remains the same when the right side of the kerf increases.

So it is also with a SS.

Exactly. The reference surface of left and right tilt saw blades are opposite. The SS reference is on the left so it is the same as a left tilt saw. Don't get confused with the table tilt direction.

Brilliant--thank you!

I am just learning how to use the Incra I-Box jig. Have read most if not all the threads. I am first trying to use the SS version of the jig on a router table (will then move to the MK 7). Using a 1/2" router bit, consistently my "box" cut is 1/2", but the finger "cut" is only 1/4". I am sure I have missed something in the set-up or correct use of the jig-but for the life of me I can not figure it out. Appreciate any insights.

After zeroing the first finger to the cutter, and after making the initial pass, are you adjusting the second finger to the other side of the cut?

Good thought, thank you--I will try this to see if it is better. I did just switch to the MK 7 and am having better luck. Will make my first real box this afternoon

I reached out to technical support at Incra-and received very good support. The bottom line is that I got the position of the silver micro adjust knob out of sink with the macro red knob by holding the former (silver) while turning the latter (red). While this is the procedure for very fine adjustments, it is not the procedure for the macro fit. I also learned that when using a SS, because the table moves laterally independent of the arbor, it is critical to reposition the jig every time you take it off the SS and put it back on, given that for a dado cutter the exact position of the cutters is not always the same relative to the center of the dado insert.

The position of the blade relative to the miter slot is what matters. "Almost" the same thing.

c2h6o wrote:I reached out to technical support at Incra-and received very good support. The bottom line is that I got the position of the silver micro adjust knob out of sink with the macro red knob by holding the former (silver) while turning the latter (red). While this is the procedure for very fine adjustments, it is not the procedure for the macro fit. I also learned that when using a SS, because the table moves laterally independent of the arbor, it is critical to reposition the jig every time you take it off the SS and put it back on, given that for a dado cutter the exact position of the cutters is not always the same relative to the center of the dado insert.

I have yet to clock a lot of hours using the I-Box but I have put my share of time in tinkering with table alignment and the survive ability of that alignment over time (on a SHOPSMITH).

I DO NOT believe that there is going to be a need to adjust the I-Box every time it is dismounted and then remounted on the table. The Mark V is getting negative press that it does not deserve. This is similar to the Shopsmith table is too small. Maybe on the older machines but even those are remaining in use. The Mark V table is NOT UNSTABLE.

The 'possibility' exists for the quill stop, arbor mounting, or carriage positioning to alter a 'zero' adjustment.

Therefore checking when mounting is necessary.

A matter I think of what deviation is tolerable.

I too think that every remounting will at least require check the jigs alignment. Adjustment might or might not be required but the checking will.

I did hundreds of measurements and test trying to find a way I could be absolutely sure the I could come back to a known location and be right on the money. I did not find that I could do that. Close yes but not right on.

Now if you think that being off say .010 is close then maybe you will be happy but I'm guessing that the joints are not going to be good enough..... I really don't know what that number is but a few thousands can make a difference.

I think on any saw you will want to check things but it more likely to need adjustment on a shopsmith due to all the parts that move relative to the sawing operations.

Ed