Shopsmith Forums

JPG40504 wrote:One 'feature' of the appalachian sled is the use of inserts for the saw kerf and fence. It uses 1/4" mdf that fits into recesses.

Yes, the Appalachian Sled has several "features" and expense items that I have not incorporated. The attached thread reviews the Appalachian. The review was done by Reible.

dusty wrote:I The only feature permanently lost is the use of the kerf cut for stock placement.

One other feature Dusty the Zero Clearance which tends to give a tear out free cut.

To me the biggest advantage to a using a sled versus any one of number or ways to crosscut is with a sled I know exactly what the cut will be and since the work piece is totally supported or backed up there will be no grain tear out.

The only sled I know that accomplishes this is the Appalachian Sled because they have a replaceable insert that can be replaced to insure the cut line is exactly the cut line.

Ed in Tampa wrote:One other feature Dusty the Zero Clearance which tends to give a tear out free cut.

To me the biggest advantage to a using a sled versus any one of number or ways to crosscut is with a sled I know exactly what the cut will be and since the work piece is totally supported or backed up there will be no grain tear out.

The only sled I know that accomplishes this is the Appalachian Sled because they have a replaceable insert that can be replaced to insure the cut line is exactly the cut line.

If you have an Appalachian and this is your experience, I accept that. But if this is second hand info, I doubt it.

Why? Because I make my own ZCIs for normal table top use and they DO NOT eliminate tear out. They might reduce it but they do not eliminate it.

As for Appalachian having an advantage because their inserts can be replaced, I agree. I would consider incorporating the insert but for the fact that I built the sled using 1/2" material. If I routed out a 1/4" for inserts, I only have 1/2" remaining for support.

I don't see enough advantage to this to cause me to build one from 3/4" stock.

Reible did a relieve on the Appalachian and gave it good comments. I sure wish we could hear from him again.

Dusty
My answer was based on second hand info and not experience because I have never been able to get a appalachian sled at the time they were building them. When I'm ready they are building and when they are building I'm either unaware or involved with something else.

But the whole concept of zero clearance is to prevent tear out. When I use a ZCI (zero clearance insert) it always works for me. But can I say it does on the App sled? No I can't but I should.

When I used sleds on non SS table saws they always produced a no tear out cut, so again I would expect the App sled to do the same.

In one shop I know they have a sled that is so zero clearance that before they use it each time they coat the cut line with bees wax to reduce drag.

Talking about bees wax and to prove this thread is not immune to being sidetracked. My neighbor is raising bee so I now have access to all the bees wax I could ever want. Praise God for good neighbors!

I have the Appalachian sled and it is one of my favorite things I use on my Shopsmith "500." Yes, it does have a zero clearance part that can be replaced but I haven't found a need to do so. I'm just careful and align my blade directly in the slot (using the quill if I need to). And, as a result, I get virtually no tear out. Works like a charm for me.

By the way, on the "500" you have to use the front table extensions because of the smaller table. Well, you really don't have to use them but it makes it much nicer and safer.

anmius wrote:I have the Appalachian sled and it is one of my favorite things I use on my Shopsmith "500." Yes, it does have a zero clearance part that can be replaced but I haven't found a need to do so. I'm just careful and align my blade directly in the slot (using the quill if I need to). And, as a result, I get virtually no tear out. Works like a charm for me.

By the way, on the "500" you have to use the front table extensions because of the smaller table. Well, you really don't have to use them but it makes it much nicer and safer.

It seems as though the sled would resolve most all complaints that one might have about the small table on the 500s. With the sled hung between the extension table and the main table, you have more table space than a Shopsmith 520.

The replaceable inserts is an excellent idea. I would have considered doing the same if I had used thicker stock for the sled. Using 1/2" as I did, there is not enough material to support the insert or to secure it.

Does the Appalachian Sled have one or two rails? Just curious.

Dusty, one way you could add a zero clearance insert to your existing sled would be to add a surface layer of 1/4" or even 1/8" masonite hard board or plywood. A sacrificial strip down the center could be held in place with a few short screws to allow for replacing, while the rest of the new surface could be secured with glue or you could use screws there as well.

pennview wrote:Dusty, one way you could add a zero clearance insert to your existing sled would be to add a surface layer of 1/4" or even 1/8" masonite hard board or plywood. A sacrificial strip down the center could be held in place with a few short screws to allow for replacing, while the rest of the new surface could be secured with glue or you could use screws there as well.

I will give that some serious consideration. I had never thought about a surface layer being added. I was concerned about weight but the new sled is a lot lighter than the previous version and the weight of a laminated surface would not be that great.

Thanks for the input.

"Does the Appalachian Sled have one or two rails? Just curious."

It has two low friction plastic slides. With just a little wax, it slides as easy as pie.

Until yesterday I thought I had completed work on my newest cross cut sled (except for a coat or two of urethane) so I decided to put it to a test. It failed...or should I say I failed.

The sled is equipped with two Shopsmith miter bars (eliminates wiggle all together). The table is 24" x 36" and has capacity to cross cut a 22" panel. That is failure #1; it should be at least 2" deeper so that it could handle a 24" panel.

Then I went to do some work and it failed again. I had the outfeed table installed only to discover that the cut outs (on the outfeed table) for the miter bars interfere with the miter bars on cross cut sled. Those cut outs need to be at least 6" longer so that the cross cut sled will clear the blade.

I'll treat this as a learning experience and partial success. At least there is no scrape as a result of the failures. Once I route the miter bar cutouts in the outfeed table I will be done with this project. Just in time for picnic tables and benchs.

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Solved the Limited Table Space Problem (Almost)

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Need Seven Inches More To Finish a Cut

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