Shopsmith Forums

mrhart wrote:So you paid for it (special order?) last April, and you still don't pocess the part?
Thats not right, after a reasonable time you should be refunded and then notified when it will be available. Or better yet, Someone should be able to give you an accurate "heads-up". Wow

As Dusty said I didn't pay for it but still that has been a long wait and I have no idea when it will end. The saw came with an insert, it is nothing but functional so for mostly cosmetic reasons I want a new one. Not going to keep me up nights either way.

Ed

UPS guy stopped yesterday! I now have the owners manual AND finally a new DC hose (my SS came with only one and its trashed-taped-kinked-crushed), now I have 16' of versatility

I went through the owners manual and oiled the seal and went through the bladed squaring procedures, blade mounting ect. However the blade tensioning is a little foggy to me. They don't address how to know when its adjusted properly. There is a little knurled nut under my black knob that actually threads down and increases blade tension. (my knob is the last component of my saw that shows abuse from the PO,it is slightly bent but still turns-just not super smooth).

So where do you start and when and how much do you adjust?
On the V shape blade guide, how close to the back of the blade should it be?
Whats with the ticking?
What would a rule of thumb be for blade speeds?

Sorry with all the questions, I'm a scroll virgin..

mrhart wrote:UPS guy stopped yesterday! I now have the owners manual AND finally a new DC hose (my SS came with only one and its trashed-taped-kinked-crushed), now I have 16' of versatility

I went through the owners manual and oiled the seal and went through the bladed squaring procedures, blade mounting ect. However the blade tensioning is a little foggy to me. They don't address how to know when its adjusted properly. There is a little knurled nut under my black knob that actually threads down and increases blade tension. (my knob is the last component of my saw that shows abuse from the PO,it is slightly bent but still turns-just not super smooth).

So where do you start and when and how much do you adjust?
On the V shape blade guide, how close to the back of the blade should it be?
Whats with the ticking?
What would a rule of thumb be for blade speeds?

Sorry with all the questions, I'm a scroll virgin..

All I can tell you is that when you plunk the blade it should twang in the key of c.

Otherwise, cut a way and if you don't break blades, tension is close to correct.

Seriously, I think this is an adjustment that you have to work to achieve and when you finally have it, you'll know.

Don't force the wood into the blade; let the blade do the work. Forcing the cut will also break blades faster than you can afford.

[quote="dusty"]All I can tell you is that when you plunk the blade it should twang in the key of c.

Otherwise, cut a way and if you don't break blades, tension is close to correct.

Seriously, I think this is an adjustment that you have to work to achieve and when you finally have it, you'll know.

Don't force the wood into the blade]

How close do you adjust the Vshape guide behind the blade? Its not like the bandsaw, with a bearing to ride on.

mrhart wrote:How close do you adjust the Vshape guide behind the blade? Its not like the bandsaw, with a bearing to ride on.

I put it about as close as I can get it without touching the blade.

mrhart wrote: . . .
However the blade tensioning is a little foggy to me. They don't address how to know when its adjusted properly. There is a little knurled nut under my black knob that actually threads down and increases blade tension. (my knob is the last component of my saw that shows abuse from the PO,it is slightly bent but still turns-just not super smooth).

So where do you start and when and how much do you adjust?
On the V shape blade guide, how close to the back of the blade should it be?
Whats with the ticking?
What would a rule of thumb be for blade speeds?

Sorry with all the questions, I'm a scroll virgin..

[ATTACH]19265[/ATTACH]

Make sure the blade is pushed all the way into the block.(minimizes mounting hole separation.

Ticking may be caused by upper arm hitting the arm cover(blade too long), or slop in the linkage between the upper and lower arm(tension rod).

More reading. https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=109710&postcount=27

See Post #30 https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=7946

Thank you JPG and Dusty for all the help. I think I have done as good a job as possible. I've made a couple test cuts just to put dust on it.

Now I need an insert (going to lowes today looking for 1/8" material).

More importantly I need to make the mysterious part #86. I bought a 3/8" x 1 bolt. I was going to try and make a jig to hold the bolt and drill a hole in it to accept the SS screw I recieved. Then flatten the other end just enough that itwill ride along the trunion when tilting the table.

Both these things are a must to even start a project safely and accurately in my opinon. Its disappointing I cant order #86, I like having the "factory parts".

mrhart wrote:Thank you JPG and Dusty for all the help. I think I have done as good a job as possible. I've made a couple test cuts just to put dust on it.

Now I need an insert (going to lowes today looking for 1/8" material).

More importantly I need to make the mysterious part #86. I bought a 3/8" x 1 bolt. I was going to try and make a jig to hold the bolt and drill a hole in it to accept the SS screw I recieved. Then flatten the other end just enough that itwill ride along the trunion when tilting the table.

Both these things are a must to even start a project safely and accurately in my opinon. Its disappointing I cant order #86, I like having the "factory parts".

What disappoints me is that Shopsmith would obsolete parts via design change and then discontinue the inventory of those parts. It seems to me to be contrary to what we have come to expect of Shopsmith.

The Tool to Start With, The System to Grow With.

BTW Did this motto replace "Shopsmith Your Lifetime Woodworking Partner" or has it always been there?

dusty wrote:What disappoints me is that Shopsmith would obsolete parts via design change and then discontinue the inventory of those parts. It seems to me to be contrary to what we have come to expect of Shopsmith.

The Tool to Start With, The System to Grow With.

BTW Did this motto replace "Shopsmith Your Lifetime Woodworking Partner" or has it always been there?

Do you think Mr Mayo would have these items?

mrhart wrote:Thank you JPG and Dusty for all the help. I think I have done as good a job as possible. I've made a couple test cuts just to put dust on it.

Now I need an insert (going to lowes today looking for 1/8" material).

More importantly I need to make the mysterious part #86. I bought a 3/8" x 1 bolt. I was going to try and make a jig to hold the bolt and drill a hole in it to accept the SS screw I recieved. Then flatten the other end just enough that itwill ride along the trunion when tilting the table.

Both these things are a must to even start a project safely and accurately in my opinon. Its disappointing I cant order #86, I like having the "factory parts".

1/4" would be more appropriate. IIWM, I would 'turn' one from hardwood. You may need to 'shape' the under side. Mine measures slightly less that 1/4".

A 'V' block will securely hold round objects for drilling. Flatten the side prior to drilling(the screw head will need that flatness). Your 'trunion' may be different from mine. Is it part of the table casting? I would appreciate a pix so as to better unnerestanit!