Shopsmith Forums

You don't have to sand them down to bare wood for sure. Just be sure that all cured epoxy has been at least scratched up (shiny spots are gone). Glass is transparent in epoxy so all you are dealing with is getting a smooth surface after the last layer.

The football shouldn't be a problem. You won't be dragging strands out of it if it's under another layer.

Good luck.

Thanks Ed & Shipwright. Working with the fiberglass and epoxy is really new and uncharted territory for me.

shipwright wrote:
I prefer to cut the strips myself as follows. Start by pulling a strand or two out across the cloth. If it's wide this can be a little frustrating at first but once you get the hang of it .... not so bad.

It is worth while because it gives you a path to cut parallel to the strands. Once your strip is cut off pull the last couple of strands away from each side and each end. What you are left with is a nice straight piece of tape with a longish "fringe" on all sides. It will apply without losing any strings unless you are really rough with the squeegee.

Thanks for sharing a pretty neat idea...I'll have to remember it.

algale wrote:....
Incidentally, I didn't see any advice or views about the other question in my post (about the ghosts in the epoxy the strands left behind)? Do I sand down until smooth only or do I need to sand them out completely down to bare wood before applying more glass/epoxy?

I sanded stray strands smooth, but not so I went into the underlying wood. I had no issues with the football, when wetted out no strands separated, all wet reasonably clear. I had issues with cool resin and not getting really good wet out so I have some weave faintly visible. I also have a few areas where the weave lifted during cure, about the size of a pencil eraser. I'm putting on the final coats of varnish on my boat, should be complete by mid next week, just in time for winter storage. I think I need to start on a motor mount next.

newportcycle wrote:I sanded stray strands smooth, but not so I went into the underlying wood. I had no issues with the football, when wetted out no strands separated, all wet reasonably clear. I had issues with cool resin and not getting really good wet out so I have some weave faintly visible. I also have a few areas where the weave lifted during cure, about the size of a pencil eraser. I'm putting on the final coats of varnish on my boat, should be complete by mid next week, just in time for winter storage. I think I need to start on a motor mount next.

You need to post more photos of your build! I am looking forward to seeing the finished product. It is quite a coincidence that two of us on this forum are both building the same model (the "Wabnaki" from Gil Gilpatrick's book "Building A Strip Canoe") at more or less the same time.

algale wrote:You need to post more photos of your build! I am looking forward to seeing the finished product. It is quite a coincidence that two of us on this forum are both building the same model (the "Wabnaki" from Gil Gilpatrick's book "Building A Strip Canoe") at more or less the same time.

I'll get some posted in the next week or so after the seats are dropped in. I'm already lining up another boat, I'll be building from plans, to cheap to purchase the kits. But I cant decide just what to do yet. I like Penobscot design by Arch Davis http://www.archdavisdesigns.com/davis2.html and Clint Chase also has a new boat the Calendar Island Yawl http://clintchaseboatbuilder.blogspot.com/p/works-in-progress.html which is also a nice looking boat, both suited to our coastal or lake waters here. Lucky to have all these talented builders so close the furthest one away is only an hour and half drive.
Your boat looks great Al, keep up the good work.

newportcycle wrote:I'll get some posted in the next week or so after the seats are dropped in. I'm already lining up another boat, I'll be building from plans, to cheap to purchase the kits. But I cant decide just what to do yet. I like Penobscot design by Arch Davis http://www.archdavisdesigns.com/davis2.html and Clint Chase also has a new boat the Calendar Island Yawl http://clintchaseboatbuilder.blogspot.com/p/works-in-progress.html which is also a nice looking boat, both suited to our coastal or lake waters here. Lucky to have all these talented builders so close the furthest one away is only an hour and half drive.
Your boat looks great Al, keep up the good work.

We must have been bitten by the same bug! I'm day dreaming about building a sailboat even while I'm working on the Slow Boat. Have you heard about a design called SCAMP (Small Craft Advisory Magazine Project)? http://smallcraftadvisor.com/scamppagemenu It it a little less traditional looking than the designs you looking at, in fact it has a pram front, and is only 11'11'' long but by all accounts it is a seaworthy little boat and handles very well.

I wasn't happy with the original sealer coat. After sanding I could see I was too stingy with the epoxy and there were still some minor gaps. My book said this was a possibility and if needed just to redo it. So here it is, sealed with fiberglass reinforcement on the ends. It seems a shame to sand it back to a dull white for the full fiberglass layer.
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It's a little too late, but I'm also beginning to have doubts about my choice of cloth. The usual cloth on these strippers is 6 ounce e-glass with an 18 x 18 plain weave. I chose 6 ounce s-glass with an 18 x 18 plain weave. I chose the s-glass over the e-glass because it is reportedly far stronger and has more abrasion resistance (also far more expensive ). But I have read on several canoe forums that even when it is filled the weave tends to show up as a shadow even though it is clear. Oh well, the fiberglass budget is busted so I'll just have to live with it.

It'll look purtier after the next coat!

I think it looks real good now!!!!!
Really nice work, you can be very proud of your work.