Shopsmith Forums

Good summary Dusty.

I am curious Who/What taught you that procedure when your Mark V was procured?

As a quality guy you must realize it is dependent upon minimal tolerance buildup. I think that chain is short here since it only involves two parts and three machined surfaces.

If it works, all is well.

Curious what a right push would result in re the blade centering. ----- I think the center line moves 1/16". Beyond the right face of the blade?


BTW I disagree that adjusting the rip fence to compensate for table misalignment however small is the 'best' approach. However 0.008" is indeed a nit.

Hey Dusty, what is that thing mounted on your miter gauge?

Gene Howe wrote:Hey Dusty, what is that thing mounted on your miter gauge?

I'd call it an improvised handle.

The other thingie adjusts the rod securing set screw.

Gene Howe wrote:Hey Dusty, what is that thing mounted on your miter gauge?

Miter gauge stop rod

Thanks, Skizzity.
The MS says the stop rod has two setscrews to attach it to the miter gauge. There's no holes in either of mine to accept set screws. What am I missing??

Gene Howe wrote:Hey Dusty, what is that thing mounted on your miter gauge?

It serves no useful purpose. It is just there and I never removed it. I don't even recall why I put it there.

Oh, that. I thought you were referring to the bolt on the top.

As Skizzity said, it is a Miter Gauge Stop Rod (505628). Seen as a Miter Gauge Accessory here:

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... rgauge.htm

JPG wrote:Good summary Dusty.

I am curious Who/What taught you that procedure when your Mark V was procured?

As a quality guy you must realize it is dependent upon minimal tolerance buildup. I think that chain is short here since it only involves two parts and three machined surfaces.

If it works, all is well.

Curious what a right push would result in re the blade centering. ----- I think the center line moves 1/16". Beyond the right face of the blade?


BTW I disagree that adjusting the rip fence to compensate for table misalignment however small is the 'best' approach. However 0.008" is indeed a nit.

I bought my Mark V at the Texas State Fair (in Dallas). The booth at the fair was manned by personnel from the Dallas area Woodcraft outlet. Shortly after the fair, they conducted a couple user classes from those of us that bought during fair time.

The same procedure was later presented by Rick Davis at a Traveling Academy Session here in Tucson.

I will not argue that compensating for misalignment by matching misalignment is not a prop0er or safe technique. I typically align the fenceh to a straight edge that fits in a miter slot (call it a miter bar). I loosen the bolts, slide the rip fence up against the miter bar and tighten the bolts. That way, both fence and the table are aligned to the same miter track.

The resulting gap when the table is pushed far right measures 5/32".

Thanks, Dusty. But, I still can't figure how it's attached. I'd buy one if I was sure it would work my gauge.

Gene Howe wrote:Thanks, Dusty. But, I still can't figure how it's attached. I'd buy one if I was sure it would work my gauge.

Can you post a picture of your miter gauge? AFAIK all SS miter gauges have this feature and accessory including the 10ER.

Look at this picture that Dusty posted. There is a horizontal hole through the miter gauge face and a set screw from the top down at each end of the miter gauge face. In this picture Dusty has an Allen wrench in the right hand set screw.

The set screws may be missing.

Any 1/4" rod will suffice.

Older Mark 5/v500 had the small nylon screws that are accessed from those holes from the top. The 'rod' set screws cover the screws up(cannot access the slot).

They have indeed been there from day one.