Shopsmith Forums

According to one of the sawdust sessions I believe Nick said just snug on these so that is what I did....

Just snug, But thank you for your advice.

wannabewoodworker wrote: . . .

I see your mortising hold down on your rip fence i am curious is that just a place you stuck it or does it function in the rip fence as a holdown??? I have the mortising attachment and holdown but I am missing the collar and bits.

That IS the primary purpose of that 'hole' since ER days! 510/20 have a threaded end on the post which threads into a t nut that slides in the t-track on the top of their fence(no hole).

mmorris wrote:WORD OF CAUTION: DO NOT over tighten the bolt that secures the eccentric. Those ears can be broken by doing that.

Dusty,
How do you know when to quit tightening without breaking the ears?[/quote]That is the problem. I don't know so I just don't take any chances. I tighten it basically finger tight. I have a screw driver type allen wrench that I use there and I do not grip it it my fist, using only finger pressure..

dusty wrote:Dusty,
How do you know when to quit tightening without breaking the ears?

That is the problem. I don't know so I just don't take any chances. I tighten it basically finger tight. I have a screw driver type allen wrench that I use there and I do not grip it it my fist, using only finger pressure..[/QUOTE]

I find the using a new split lock washer located where I can see the split and tightening the bolt until the lock washer split is flat is the correct torque (20 in/pds) for the eccentric bushing bolt.

Thanks, Bill. That's the torque info I was needing!

Keep in mind, that bolt and the squeeze it puts on the eccentric is what keeps it from rotating.

It will only tend to rotate under extreme operating torque load.

If the eccentric is positioned such that the adjustment slot is between 6 and 12 o'clock on the 9 o'clock side, that torque will try to rotate the eccentric in a clockwise direction thus increasing the tension on the drive belt(not the motor belt). Increased tension is probably not going to cause an immediate problem.

If however the eccentric is positioned on the 3 o'clock side, that torque will decrease the tension on the drive belt perhaps to the point of slipping. That is an immediate problem.

The 'squeeze' must be sufficient to prevent the eccentric from moving in/out along its bore. Since there is little if any force in those directions(other than the control sheave squeezing the motor belt), a minimal amount of 'squeeze' is needed.

I do not know the tightening torque value, but I have to agree with Bill Mayo's lock washer method to be an excellent alternative. It responds directly to the 'squeeze force' that we need to 'limit'. The wrench torque may be affected by other 'things'.

Hear is the 'final' update on this rebuild.
After this week it is going to St. Charles, Mo. I hope Mom and Ralph like it.

Just to show that it is the same one I started with;).
[ATTACH]8658[/ATTACH]

This is a full on shot with the Jointer and Jigsaw shown. They are going too.
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Jointer end
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Headstock with Caution Label (Thank you mickyd)
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Accessories. The extra miter gauge is the original green paint for reference.
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And there you have it.

Things I still need to do. New gasket and setup the Jig Saw. Get oil for it too.
Deliver it...

Beautiful result the hard work does payoff in the end!!!

Outstanding!!!