Stand Mount Scrollsaw

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JPG
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Post by JPG »

mrhart wrote:Do you think Mr Mayo would have these items?
Definitely a possibility!!!!

All it takes to find out is a PM!
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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letterk
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Post by letterk »

Al the Scroll Saw instructions I've seen mention clicks. My tension works, but I've never heard any clicks. Was there ever a machine where the tension didn't click or is something broken? My tension knob seems to be tensioning the blade alright.
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mrhart
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Post by mrhart »

This is the back trunion and you can see where #86 fits in. Like I said I was able to get the factory screw. I did also check with Mr Mayo and that a negative on any parts for this unit.

[ATTACH]19337[/ATTACH]
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R Hart
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Tnx for the pix. Is the 'height' of the trunion the same as the pivot pin mount 'bottom'? If so the pin merely needs a hole for the mounting screw.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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mrhart
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Post by mrhart »

I will check tonight, but I thought when I held the bolt in the slot and pushed down on the table there was still a difference in height. Dustys sketch up I believe was flat, so maybe I'll take a close look this evening.
R Hart
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

The tension adjusting knob is missing. I believe the knurled aluminum part below the 'top' knob is the center of the missing knob.

Rotating that center part changes the arm separation and thus the blade tension.

The missing lower knob and the existing top knob had a spring and ball bearing detent/'clicker' that the blade instructions are referring to.

Assuming the lower knob is 'unavailable', IIWM, I would replace the knurled part with a knob having the correct threads and adjust the tension that way.

It would require getting a feel for when the blade is barely tight and a way to determine how far past that point to turn the knob. There are 16 'clicks' per revolution. A way to lock it.

Maybe upgrading to the new tension hardware is a more practical thing to do.:(
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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mrhart
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Post by mrhart »

Before
[ATTACH]19352[/ATTACH]

I bought a 3/8" x 11/4" bolt and washer. Used a scrap piece of hardwood flooring clamped to the ER fence for a v-block. Held with blue tape, and some tongue twisting to drill the hole.
[ATTACH]19353[/ATTACH]

Then used the grinder on the Greenie to shorten the bolt to fit and flatten the bottom of the trunion end a bit. Spray bottle of water between fittings.
[ATTACH]19354[/ATTACH]

After
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R Hart
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mrhart
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Post by mrhart »

JPG40504 wrote:The tension adjusting knob is missing. I believe the knurled aluminum part below the 'top' knob is the center of the missing knob.

Rotating that center part changes the arm separation and thus the blade tension.

The missing lower knob and the existing top knob had a spring and ball bearing detent/'clicker' that the blade instructions are referring to.

Assuming the lower knob is 'unavailable', IIWM, I would replace the knurled part with a knob having the correct threads and adjust the tension that way.

It would require getting a feel for when the blade is barely tight and a way to determine how far past that point to turn the knob. There are 16 'clicks' per revolution. A way to lock it.

Maybe upgrading to the new tension hardware is a more practical thing to do.:(

Sorry for adding that pic until now. But I had forgot all about asking about that knob until now. I'll look on my new owners manual and call SS and see if thats available. Might be why I'm not sure about my adjusting. Here is the pic again.
[ATTACH]19357[/ATTACH]
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R Hart
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reible
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Post by reible »

Hi,

A quick question, do you have the machine screw threads touching the trunnion of the table? Couldn't tell if you ground them off or what.

Anyway it might be nicer to have it smoother, for some related yet quite different idea check this out:

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=9258

Ed
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mrhart
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Post by mrhart »

I did grind off a flat spot for it to rest on the trunion. I went through your thread, that was awesome!
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