Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 10:35 am
Definitely a possibility!!!!mrhart wrote:Do you think Mr Mayo would have these items?
All it takes to find out is a PM!
All it takes to find out is a PM!
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Stand Mount Scrollsaw
Page 9 of 12
All it takes to find out is a PM!
Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 2:40 pm
Al the Scroll Saw instructions I've seen mention clicks. My tension works, but I've never heard any clicks. Was there ever a machine where the tension didn't click or is something broken? My tension knob seems to be tensioning the blade alright.
Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 5:36 pm
This is the back trunion and you can see where #86 fits in. Like I said I was able to get the factory screw. I did also check with Mr Mayo and that a negative on any parts for this unit.
[ATTACH]19337[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]19337[/ATTACH]
Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 9:23 pm
Tnx for the pix. Is the 'height' of the trunion the same as the pivot pin mount 'bottom'? If so the pin merely needs a hole for the mounting screw.
Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 9:28 pm
I will check tonight, but I thought when I held the bolt in the slot and pushed down on the table there was still a difference in height. Dustys sketch up I believe was flat, so maybe I'll take a close look this evening.
Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 9:55 pm
The tension adjusting knob is missing. I believe the knurled aluminum part below the 'top' knob is the center of the missing knob.
Rotating that center part changes the arm separation and thus the blade tension.
The missing lower knob and the existing top knob had a spring and ball bearing detent/'clicker' that the blade instructions are referring to.
Assuming the lower knob is 'unavailable', IIWM, I would replace the knurled part with a knob having the correct threads and adjust the tension that way.
It would require getting a feel for when the blade is barely tight and a way to determine how far past that point to turn the knob. There are 16 'clicks' per revolution. A way to lock it.
Maybe upgrading to the new tension hardware is a more practical thing to do.
Rotating that center part changes the arm separation and thus the blade tension.
The missing lower knob and the existing top knob had a spring and ball bearing detent/'clicker' that the blade instructions are referring to.
Assuming the lower knob is 'unavailable', IIWM, I would replace the knurled part with a knob having the correct threads and adjust the tension that way.
It would require getting a feel for when the blade is barely tight and a way to determine how far past that point to turn the knob. There are 16 'clicks' per revolution. A way to lock it.
Maybe upgrading to the new tension hardware is a more practical thing to do.
Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 11:04 pm
Before
[ATTACH]19352[/ATTACH]
I bought a 3/8" x 11/4" bolt and washer. Used a scrap piece of hardwood flooring clamped to the ER fence for a v-block. Held with blue tape, and some tongue twisting to drill the hole.
[ATTACH]19353[/ATTACH]
Then used the grinder on the Greenie to shorten the bolt to fit and flatten the bottom of the trunion end a bit. Spray bottle of water between fittings.
[ATTACH]19354[/ATTACH]
After
[ATTACH]19355[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]19356[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]19352[/ATTACH]
I bought a 3/8" x 11/4" bolt and washer. Used a scrap piece of hardwood flooring clamped to the ER fence for a v-block. Held with blue tape, and some tongue twisting to drill the hole.
[ATTACH]19353[/ATTACH]
Then used the grinder on the Greenie to shorten the bolt to fit and flatten the bottom of the trunion end a bit. Spray bottle of water between fittings.
[ATTACH]19354[/ATTACH]
After
[ATTACH]19355[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]19356[/ATTACH]
Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 11:09 pm
JPG40504 wrote:The tension adjusting knob is missing. I believe the knurled aluminum part below the 'top' knob is the center of the missing knob.
Rotating that center part changes the arm separation and thus the blade tension.
The missing lower knob and the existing top knob had a spring and ball bearing detent/'clicker' that the blade instructions are referring to.
Assuming the lower knob is 'unavailable', IIWM, I would replace the knurled part with a knob having the correct threads and adjust the tension that way.
It would require getting a feel for when the blade is barely tight and a way to determine how far past that point to turn the knob. There are 16 'clicks' per revolution. A way to lock it.
Maybe upgrading to the new tension hardware is a more practical thing to do.
Sorry for adding that pic until now. But I had forgot all about asking about that knob until now. I'll look on my new owners manual and call SS and see if thats available. Might be why I'm not sure about my adjusting. Here is the pic again.
[ATTACH]19357[/ATTACH]
Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 12:53 am
Hi,
A quick question, do you have the machine screw threads touching the trunnion of the table? Couldn't tell if you ground them off or what.
Anyway it might be nicer to have it smoother, for some related yet quite different idea check this out:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=9258
Ed
A quick question, do you have the machine screw threads touching the trunnion of the table? Couldn't tell if you ground them off or what.
Anyway it might be nicer to have it smoother, for some related yet quite different idea check this out:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=9258
Ed
Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 9:05 am
I did grind off a flat spot for it to rest on the trunion. I went through your thread, that was awesome!