10ER rebuild

[badtheba]

I've had a bit of trouble getting the bar the jointer mounts to out of its headrest after soaking it with break away for a few days, but finally decided to rotate it with a channel lock pliers and a rag and that did the trick. Now I'm just stuck with the base plate hinge pins right now. It's still mounted to the bench, and I've been spraying them daily but can't get them to budge. I don't see a good way to put it in a press, but maybe I can get them out with C-clamps? What sure fire tricks are there for pressing these things out?

Last night I started on a few small parts with some of the nasty paint stripper I had around (I think I'll try some of the recommended Citri-strip). There's no way I have the space to do all the parts at once, so I'm focusing on only the cast pieces that directly fasten to the way tubes for now.

On painting/color selection, Have many of you actually color matched the original paint at a store? At my wife's work they carry True Value's brand XO-rust, which I understand has outperformed Rust-oleum in some test, but I can't imagine they're too much different. I color matched two parts using an X-rite Spectrophotometer, and although they came up with different formulas each time, the computer colors came out quite similar. Bear in mind that almost no one has a correctly calibrated computer screen, so this won't look right, but I'll attach what I did for reference in case anyone is curious. I have yet to have a quart mixed up, but as it will only run $5 or so I think I'll go this route instead of spray cans. With the paint runs I got on the jointer head using an XO Rust spray can, I'd like to go back to the paint booth with equipment I'm used to to get it right. In the pic, uppermost left is from the flat top of the belt guard, and the uppermost right is off the jointer mounting plate. The jointer mount plate came a lot cleaner with soap and water and had fewer scratches, so I'd trust its accuracy more.

Shopsmith 1951 10ER OEM paint match.png (273.34 KiB) Viewed 11256 times

Edit: To illustrate how you can't trust color representation on most computer monitors, I have dual screen set up where I have two identical model Acer gaming monitors purchased a few months apart, with identical brightness, contrast, and color settings, and my right monitor shows things far darker than the left.

[badtheba]

Since I haven't recorded it yet, I'll post badges/serial numbers now. I believe I have a '51? I'm guessing on the year based on the parts I have and Skip's survey. The ER serial number is ER 48871. The jointer serial number is 3425.

Another small clue about its production date that I got from Everett's "production changes" document is that my belt guard seems to be an in between version, with a flat top but no extended part that wraps around the headstock, I assume for stability. Maybe someone knows more about this? I found a few old eBay pictures of covers like mine, but not many.

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[chapmanruss]

My Model 4E Jointer is serial number 2145. Not to many of these were made. I have seen very few with the highest serial number being 9108. The "New 4" Jointer" was featured in SHOPSMITH SHAVINGS Issue No. 8, the same issue announcing to Shopsmith owners the soon to be available Mark 5.

I use a PVC pipe tube with vinegar and I believe I originally got the idea from the saw dust session using a potato that JPG mentioned. I use vinegar because it's fairly cheap and much quicker than the potato method.

[jsburger]

My Model 4E Jointer is serial number 2145. Not to many of these were made. I have seen very few with the highest serial number being 9108. The "New 4" Jointer" was featured in SHOPSMITH SHAVINGS Issue No. 8, the same issue announcing to Shopsmith owners the soon to be available Mark 5.

I use a PVC pipe tube with vinegar and I believe I originally got the idea from the saw dust session using a potato that JPG mentioned. I use vinegar because it's fairly cheap and much quicker than the potato method.

FWIW, I have 2 4E's here, S/N 5768 and 9390

[badtheba]

I just picked up a free treadmill today with a large 3HP Baldor motor. I had to take a weight machine with it, but since original retail on that was $1500 where I used to work, I didn't feel bad agreeing to take both. I'll keep you guys posted if I get anything worked out with converting to variable speed.

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[badtheba]

Comparing the treadmill I just got to the one in my basement, I might swap them and keep the new free one for my wife, then she'll get an upgrade out of the deal anyway.

My old treadmill has a 2.4HP Baldor motor with a keyed shaft. It also bolts to the frame with a bracket that would mate directly to the 10ER bracket. I have yet to check the shaft diameter, but it shouldn't be too hard to fit my existing pulleys. The "new" one is a 3HP with a tapered shaft that is female threaded on the end. It mounts to the frame with a pivoting bracket that threads down onto a bumper, and would be harder to mount without making a plate.

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[badtheba]

Here are the parts (original paint, before stripping, just soap and water cleanup) I used to color match at the hardware store. I used whatever had flat surfaces for the scanner. In the middle is just plain white copy paper I smudged some paint on. I'd have taken pictures of the parts I already have primed and ready, but they stinkin' refuse to dry in my basement in this weather.

I used XO-rust gloss paint, as gloss and high gloss were the only options to get it mixed, and so far it looks pretty decent. I sprayed the primer, but have actually brushed the paint on as brush strokes don't really show on rougher cast pieces anyway. I'm thinking I'll go for mostly the original color on the larger parts, or anything that directly interfaces with the way tubes, and go with black on some of the smaller parts.

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[badtheba]

The last thing keeping me from getting the base pieces off the bench was pressing out the hinge pins. I borrowed a C frame U-joint tool that just fit inside the base, and used 3 huge washers to push the pin through.

Once I got it to budge, I had to go down to one washer so I could juggle it and a socket on the inside to press out. Are these a pressed fit, or do they normally slip out after removing the set screw? Mine definitely seemed like they were supposed to be a pressed fit.

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[JPG]

The last thing keeping me from getting the base pieces off the bench was pressing out the hinge pins. I borrowed a C frame U-joint tool that just fit inside the base, and used 3 huge washers to push the pin through.

Once I got it to budge, I had to go down to one washer so I could juggle it and a socket on the inside to press out. Are these a pressed fit, or do they normally slip out after removing the set screw? Mine definitely seemed like they were supposed to be a pressed fit.

SSimage002.jpg

SSimage003.jpg

SSimage004.jpg

If they were a press fit, there would be no need for a set screw. Me thinks corrosion is the culprit.

[badtheba]

The last thing keeping me from getting the base pieces off the bench was pressing out the hinge pins. I borrowed a C frame U-joint tool that just fit inside the base, and used 3 huge washers to push the pin through.

Once I got it to budge, I had to go down to one washer so I could juggle it and a socket on the inside to press out. Are these a pressed fit, or do they normally slip out after removing the set screw? Mine definitely seemed like they were supposed to be a pressed fit.

SSimage002.jpg

SSimage003.jpg

SSimage004.jpg

If they were a press fit, there would be no need for a set screw. Me thinks corrosion is the culprit.

And that was my thought when they wouldn't come out with a bit of persuasion, but once I got them out with the tool, everything came out pretty clean. After soaking and a wire wheel I'll test fit and see if they slip in.

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