I BOX review of sorts (spoiler alert)

[dgreen810]

Here are a couple more photos for reference that may help or confuse.

Don G

[jsburger]

"Perfect Joints All the Time"??? No way. This jig must be setup and used according to the instructions. If that is done, good joints are probable but not guaranteed. Some 'skill and cunning' is still required.

I think "No way" is not really the correct answer. Yes there is a learning curve with this jig. Some individuals may find it steeper than others. It has a number of adjustments and one has to understand what each one does and the relationship between them. Each one affects the others.

Once you get it dialed in for a particular width and don't change anything it will cut perfect joints every time for that width. That is my experience anyhow. The blades you use will make a difference. Right now I am using a set of Forrest box joint blades that cut 1/4" or 3/8" joints. They have off set carbide teeth so depending on the way you stack them on the arbor it changes the width of the cut. There are no shims involved. They are dead on every time. So if the I-Box is set up for perfect 1/4" joints and you don't touch it you get perfect joints every time you put the blade set on the saw.

If you use a stacked dado set and use shims unless you put the exact same shims in even a thou will make a difference in the fit.

Skill is always required for a perfect anything.

OKAY. I give. Maybe you expect to make "perfect joints all the time" but I don't. What you state here, "Once you get it dialed in for a particular width and don't change anything it will cut perfect joints every time for that width." is a panacea that will not occur in my shop. Not due to the I-Box but my human frailties.

Good Luck

I am sorry you have gotten to that point. I am 69 and probably approaching that point in the next few years. It does work for me as I stated. If it is not working for you then state why, not that it doesn't work period as you think it should, meaning for everyone.

[reible]

I dug out my manual and after reviewing that and from my experience I have to say that I believe this is the correct location of the guard and in that location I have interference with the hardware. This is what I have said from day one and this is why Incra/Shopsmith sent out the "toilet" bolt to fix. Now I can see how someone could mount the parts the other way and not have the interference but I believe that is the wrong way to mount the parts.

Now this will probably not happen on other saws or router tables but it does on the shopsmith. Luck of the draw so to speak.

IMG_3245sc.jpg (396.73 KiB) Viewed 6536 times

Now a couple of people have mentioned not needing the fix so those that feel they didn't need the new bolt please take a look at your setup and see if you have the parts mount like I do or the other way round?

Ed

[dgreen810]

You guys are not listening!! I pointed out somewhere back Ed's photos show the incra was set up probably by accident as though it were going to be used in the right hand slot. It was then flipped 180 and set in the left hand slot. This positioned the miter bar on the blade side of the jig Ed then at some point simply positioned the miter bar from the blade side to the front side. That won't work. you have to flip the complete unit 180 and then position the miter bar.

If you don't do this the so called "Blade Tunnel" is on the wrong sideas Dusty is trying to show with his photos.

Don G

[reible]

I've been reviewing Dusty post with dimensions. We do not agree on this one dimension for sure. On my jig I see 3-1/8" and in Dusty's picture he has 3-1/2". See below.

I-Box addendum 017a.jpg (559.95 KiB) Viewed 6530 times

This is off a lot more then I would expect. Now I know Dusty centers his blade and I don't worry about it but still this is off by more then that. The more I think and see this the more interesting the whole thing becomes. Also more confusing.

Ed

[dgreen810]

ED

did you center the line right in the middle of the "O" in the red knob?

Don G

[reible]

ED

did you center the line right in the middle of the "O" in the red knob?

Don G

I sure did. Now I've messed it up and moved it as far as I can including moving the "O" way past center and I can not physically get it to 3-1/2". Close but that is is.

Now I've messed up my setting and then taken it back to just about where it was you can see the "O" and that I have just under 7/16" of threaded rod exposed. When I go to use it again I'll have to adjust the setting anyway but it is interesting how much different there is.

IMG_3252sc.jpg (243.3 KiB) Viewed 6523 times

Now I know mine works as I have used it several times on several projects. Once set up on a project I do all the joints at one time and have had no problems. But I do find I need to adjust it before starting. Normally it is pretty minor adjustment but now I've messed with everything it might be more like starting over.

Ed

[dusty]

I've been reviewing Dusty post with dimensions. We do not agree on this one dimension for sure. On my jig I see 3-1/8" and in Dusty's picture he has 3-1/2". See below.

I-Box addendum 017a.jpg


This is off a lot more then I would expect. Now I know Dusty centers his blade and I don't worry about it but still this is off by more then that. The more I think and see this the more interesting the whole thing becomes. Also more confusing.

Ed

This difference (3 1/8" vs 3 1/2") is simply the difference in where we have set the GlideLock Miter Bar. But that goes all the way back to the Main Table top and how far the Miter Track is from the left face of any blade that is installed. I could move my quill an 1/8" and get the same measurements you do. I can also move the pin guides and get your numbers.

Too many variables. I just looked at mine and compared it to my own posted pictures and the numbers are different.

I gotta think on this some more.

[thunderbirdbat]

The other question is, what minor tweaks have been made between the time the two units were manufactured? From my experience, all products are modified after getting feedback from the end user or to make it easier to build. It may be a small thing like the change in the screws used or moving something an eighth of an inch to make it easier for the end user or the person assembling it at manufacture. These changes may also be responsible for some of the differences that you are seeing between the units.

[dusty]

Ed, what do you measure from the left edge of the left miter track to the left plate of a "centered" saw blade. Mine measures approximately 4 1/8". If your Main Table is aligned any different than mine, it will create a difference in the I-Box measurements. That and the width of our rubber bumpers.

Yes, as Brenda has just mentioned, a tweaking differences. How close to identical have we done the I-Box preliminary alignment and Miter Bar adjustments.

Don makes a good point also. My red/silver knobs were not right on. I had set them in the beginning but over this last couple days, that setting got changed some.