floating sheave (117) stuck
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futralwoodworks
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- Location: Acworth, GA
floating sheave (117) stuck
I'm stripping and cleaning the headstock on a Mark V I was given. The machine runs fine and just needs some TLC, but the speed adjustment isn't working just right. The floating sheave (117) is stuck on the motor shaft. I have already taken off the retaing ring (114), retaining washer (115), and the motor spring (116). The sheave doesn't move at all (even with a little force). Any ideas?
- JPG
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Wheel puller.(after soaking)futralwoodworks wrote:I'm stripping and cleaning the headstock on a Mark V I was given. The machine runs fine and just needs some TLC, but the speed adjustment isn't working just right. The floating sheave (117) is stuck on the motor shaft. I have already taken off the retaing ring (114), retaining washer (115), and the motor spring (116). The sheave doesn't move at all (even with a little force). Any ideas?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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futralwoodworks
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Thanks but I'm not familiar with a wheel puller. Also how do I soak it still on the machine and with what. I'ma rookie with this repair/main stuff.JPG40504 wrote:Wheel puller.(after soaking)
Now I thought that was the one that had a set screw in it and to get to it there's a hole in the headstock cover to access it.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
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futralwoodworks
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square key
Looks to be some sort of square key on the shaft but not sure. No sign of a set screw on part or on exploded diagram.
I have had outstanding success with Kroil (http://www.kanolabs.com/yahoo/ for loosening the motor floating sheave and the control sheave. I use several cans each year for many years for rusty bolts and screws and unsticking sheaves and shafts, I buy a dozen cans for each order. I have done dozens of demos where pullers was having difficultly and using Kroil quickly loosen the part. I use Kroil for cleaning parts too. I believe you can return the can for your money back if if does not work as adversived. Excellant sale prices are been offered right nowfutralwoodworks wrote:I'm stripping and cleaning the headstock on a Mark V I was given. The machine runs fine and just needs some TLC, but the speed adjustment isn't working just right. The floating sheave (117) is stuck on the motor shaft. I have already taken off the retaing ring (114), retaining washer (115), and the motor spring (116). The sheave doesn't move at all (even with a little force). Any ideas?
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Putting the headstock in the drill press position will help to allow lubricant between the sheave and the shaft. I'd certainly recommend allowing lubricant to soak/seep in along the shaft before trying a wheel puller. Kroil sounds like a good idea. Also a light oil like Turbo Oil or Marvel Mystery Oil are also good choices.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
- JPG
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Gotta add my pitch for kerosene!charlese wrote:Putting the headstock in the drill press position will help to allow lubricant between the sheave and the shaft. I'd certainly recommend allowing lubricant to soak/seep in along the shaft before trying a wheel puller. Kroil sounds like a good idea. Also a light oil like Turbo Oil is also a good choice.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
In order to reach the set screw for the non moving sheave (fan sheave) you have to look through a hole in the bottom of the motor pan to see the screw when it lines up in the hole. Use a 5/32 SS allen wrench to loosen the set screw. For the moving sheave the penetrating oil is the only option. To force them apart the only options are the penetrating oil and patience as the others have stated.
You may ba able to tap a wooden wedge between the two sheaves to get the sliding one to move.
Bill V
You may ba able to tap a wooden wedge between the two sheaves to get the sliding one to move.
Bill V
- JPG
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
wa2crk wrote:In order to reach the set screw for the non moving sheave (fan sheave) you have to look through a hole in the bottom of the motor pan to see the screw when it lines up in the hole. Use a 5/32 SS allen wrench to loosen the set screw. For the moving sheave the penetrating oil is the only option. To force them apart the only options are the penetrating oil and patience as the others have stated.
You may ba able to tap a wooden wedge between the two sheaves to get the sliding one to move.
Bill V
And it can be extremely stubborn!!!!!:(
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange