Speed control sheeve bearing
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Speed control sheeve bearing
I beleive the bearing on my speed control sheeve is going bad. I just replaced the porkchop a week ago and last night, my SS 510 started to make a knocking noise especially noticible at higher speed. I can press on the speed control and is quiets the noise a little.
I have tried the extra lube and put it in drill press mode overnight, but havn't turned it on today.
I read on this forum that the button bearing (for lack of a better term) is one of the first to go. Shopsmith does not seem to sell it seperately, but ebay has is.
My question is, how do you replace it or should I just get the sheeve assy from SS?
I have tried the extra lube and put it in drill press mode overnight, but havn't turned it on today.
I read on this forum that the button bearing (for lack of a better term) is one of the first to go. Shopsmith does not seem to sell it seperately, but ebay has is.
My question is, how do you replace it or should I just get the sheeve assy from SS?
- dusty
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- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
I think it would be very neighborly of you to buy the button bearing and then do a pictorial showing how you installed it. Then you could do a report on how it performs.bduemig wrote:I beleive the bearing on my speed control sheeve is going bad. I just replaced the porkchop a week ago and last night, my SS 510 started to make a knocking noise especially noticible at higher speed. I can press on the speed control and is quiets the noise a little.
I have tried the extra lube and put it in drill press mode overnight, but havn't turned it on today.
I read on this forum that the button bearing (for lack of a better term) is one of the first to go. Shopsmith does not seem to sell it seperately, but ebay has is.
My question is, how do you replace it or should I just get the sheeve assy from SS?
I, on the other hand, would buy the sheave assembly.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
- JPG
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
I think you need to 'see' what is noisy before considering any 'fix'.
If it makes knocking noises, it has parts 'rattling'.
I be unclear as to ' I can press on the speed control and is quiets the noise a little.' Where on the speed control are you 'pressing' and in what direction?
Last, how much play is there between the control sheave and the key on the idler shaft?
If it makes knocking noises, it has parts 'rattling'.
I be unclear as to ' I can press on the speed control and is quiets the noise a little.' Where on the speed control are you 'pressing' and in what direction?
Last, how much play is there between the control sheave and the key on the idler shaft?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Control Sheave Replacement
I recommend buying from Shopsmith part #515556 Control Sheave Assembly for less than $50 plus shipping. It can be difficult to install a replacement bearing and not have it pop out at a later time. I machine the control sheave bearing hole about .05" deeper so I have room for staking the new bearing in the control sheave. LocTite can help hold the bearing if you replace it. I normally replace any used Control/Idler Sheaves and Shaft Assembly as a unit due to manufacturing tolerances.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
It appears to be the spring clip that connects the speed control to the sheeve trying to rotate and rattling.JPG40504 wrote:I think you need to 'see' what is noisy before considering any 'fix'.
If it makes knocking noises, it has parts 'rattling'.
I be unclear as to ' I can press on the speed control and is quiets the noise a little.' Where on the speed control are you 'pressing' and in what direction?
Last, how much play is there between the control sheave and the key on the idler shaft?
I can press on the ring of the speed control and it seems to get a little quieter.
I lubed the bearing last night and set it to drill press mode overnight and the noise went away, so I am assuming the bearing is on its way out.
- JPG
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
If that clip is causing the noise, you have a very quiet running machine.bduemig wrote:It appears to be the spring clip that connects the speed control to the sheeve trying to rotate and rattling.
I can press on the ring of the speed control and it seems to get a little quieter.
I lubed the bearing last night and set it to drill press mode overnight and the noise went away, so I am assuming the bearing is on its way out.
Just for laughs, is the anti-rattle spring under the 'ring'?;)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
[quote="JPG40504"]If that clip is causing the noise, you have a very quiet running machine.
Just for laughs, is the anti-rattle spring under the 'ring'?]
I thought the same thing. I thought that maybe it was jarred loose when I repaired the porkchop. The spring was in tact. I did find the speed control not completely seated against the headstock. I had to back off the fast stop set screw to reseat the speed control and then reset the high speed stop.
As far as it being quiet, not at all. while running, I looked inside the headstock and it seems that the rattle noise coincides with the retainer clip trying to rotate with the sheeve. I am still not convinced that it is the problem though. More torubleshooting ahead!!
Just for laughs, is the anti-rattle spring under the 'ring'?]
I thought the same thing. I thought that maybe it was jarred loose when I repaired the porkchop. The spring was in tact. I did find the speed control not completely seated against the headstock. I had to back off the fast stop set screw to reseat the speed control and then reset the high speed stop.
As far as it being quiet, not at all. while running, I looked inside the headstock and it seems that the rattle noise coincides with the retainer clip trying to rotate with the sheeve. I am still not convinced that it is the problem though. More torubleshooting ahead!!
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
bduemig wrote:I thought the same thing. I thought that maybe it was jarred loose when I repaired the porkchop. The spring was in tact. I did find the speed control not completely seated against the headstock. I had to back off the fast stop set screw to reseat the speed control and then reset the high speed stop.
As far as it being quiet, not at all. while running, I looked inside the headstock and it seems that the rattle noise coincides with the retainer clip trying to rotate with the sheeve. I am still not convinced that it is the problem though. More torubleshooting ahead!!
Temporarily remove the clip and see if the rattle goes away. The clip's only function in life is to prevent the 'button' from rotating. Running it without the clip will not do any damage short term, however replace it after this 'test'. A further test could be to place a piece of wire into the button clip hole, and feel any tendency of the bearing to drag/catch as it rotates. This wire could extend out of the access hole(hold on to the wire firmly!!!!!).
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I can't recommend fooling around with a clip or little bearing. The results will probably be less than desired. I agree completely with billmayo part number 515556 is what you need if your noises are coming from the control sheave shaft. For $50 you can get a new sheave complete with the shaft, key and the sliding tube with a new bearing and clip.
Once, when I had some speed control issues - took mine apart, I found my inadequate lubrication:o had caused wear to the short key, and both the steel shaft and the bronze tube. They were no longer round, but worn into a slightly oblong shape. Also the keyway was damaged and so was the key. After this replacement, lubrication became a regular thing every 10 hours of running.
If your machine was not new - who knows what treatment it has had.
Once, when I had some speed control issues - took mine apart, I found my inadequate lubrication:o had caused wear to the short key, and both the steel shaft and the bronze tube. They were no longer round, but worn into a slightly oblong shape. Also the keyway was damaged and so was the key. After this replacement, lubrication became a regular thing every 10 hours of running.
If your machine was not new - who knows what treatment it has had.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA