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Barrister Bookcase project
Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 7:15 pm
by bffulgham
I finally was able to have a series of warm days with minimal wind, and applied the finish to the bookcase I started
way back when. SWMBO is pleased
Here's a shot of the project in place:
[ATTACH]16857[/ATTACH]
If you have an interest in how I got from start to finish, I posted several shots on
my web site.
On April Fools Day, no less!
Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 7:25 pm
by algale
Nice bookcases! Really great jo!
Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 8:07 pm
by charlese
Very nice work, Bud!:D Especially, since wife is pleased.
Nice looking back - ship lapped?
Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 9:21 am
by bffulgham
charlese wrote:Very nice work, Bud!:D Especially, since wife is pleased.
Nice looking back - ship lapped?
Yes, sir. Slats are about 4" wide with a bead on one edge to help disguise the 'expansion' gap between slats.
[ATTACH]16859[/ATTACH]
And, yes, it's great when Susan is pleased......makes it much easier to get agreement when it's time to buy supplies for the next project

Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 10:11 am
by mrhart
Thanks for the link to all the pics, very nice work sir

Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 8:42 am
by berry
Great looking project. Can you show a detail pic or provide more detail on how your holding the glass in place?
Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 3:04 pm
by bffulgham
berry wrote:Great looking project. Can you show a detail pic or provide more detail on how your holding the glass in place?
Thank you.
The glass sits in a 3/8 wide x 1/2 deep (or so) rabbit on the back side of the door. I then used my 23ga pin-nailer to tack 3/8 x 3/8 (no glue) retainer strips in. I did not miter the corners of the retaining strips. Should the glass need to be replaced, butt joints should make it easier to remove the retainers. Here's a not-too-good shot of the back side. Maybe you can tell what I did.
[ATTACH]16883[/ATTACH]
Hope this helped answer your question. If you need more info, just let me know.
Bud
Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 10:47 pm
by berry
bffulgham wrote:Thank you.
The glass sits in a 3/8 wide x 1/2 deep (or so) rabbit on the back side of the door. I then used my 23ga pin-nailer to tack 3/8 x 3/8 (no glue) retainer strips in. I did not miter the corners of the retaining strips. Should the glass need to be replaced, butt joints should make it easier to remove the retainers. Here's a not-too-good shot of the back side. Maybe you can tell what I did.
[ATTACH]16883[/ATTACH]
Hope this helped answer your question. If you need more info, just let me know.
Bud
Thanks for the detail. A couple more questions, if it's okay. Are those 'retaining strips' square or did you cut a 45 to nail into? Why'd you use the pinner? I'd have thought (if you consider glass replacement at some point) drilling & pushing in brads would be the way to go. Just curious - as I'll be doing a glass door on a wine cabinet in May.
Thanks again.
Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 11:54 pm
by bffulgham
berry wrote:Thanks for the detail. A couple more questions, if it's okay. Are those 'retaining strips' square or did you cut a 45 to nail into? Why'd you use the pinner? I'd have thought (if you consider glass replacement at some point) drilling & pushing in brads would be the way to go. Just curious - as I'll be doing a glass door on a wine cabinet in May.
Thanks again.
Yep, retainers are 3/8 square. The pins (3/4" in length) are headless, so I should be able to work something like a putty knife between the rail/stile and the strip; and hopefully work the strip off the pin. If I goober the strip up, it's a simple matter to form a new set. A couple of other reasons that I used the pin gun is that I'm a whole lot more comfortable with it than my fumble fingers and a hammer around glass

and they are all but invisible. If you look very, very closely at the last pic just above the bottom left on the strip; that little dot is the pin hole.
Your method with brads will work just as well, if not better.
Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 12:32 am
by JPG
[quote="bffulgham"]Yep, retainers are 3/8 square. The pins (3/4" in length) are headless, so I should be able to work something like a putty knife between the rail/stile and the strip]
A short relief cut at the middle of each strip would make prying them loose easier.
