Saw blade recommendation for newbee?

saminmn · Post by **saminmn** » Sat Apr 07, 2012 12:18 pm

I tried to find a thread that covers this, but gave up. My search skills are not that good I quess. The shopsmith I got came without arbor or blade. Suggestion from seller was to go with 5/8" arbor. And pick blade from wider selection than Just SS.

Any ideas on this? Or sources?

paulmcohen · Post by **paulmcohen** » Sat Apr 07, 2012 12:45 pm

saminmn wrote:I tried to find a thread that covers this, but gave up. My search skills are not that good I guess. The Shopsmith I got came without arbor or blade. Suggestion for seller was to go with 5/8" arbor. And pick blade from wider selection than Just SS.

Any ideas on this? Or sources?

Just my opinion but if Shopsmith has the blade I need, I purchase it with a 1-1/4" Shopsmith arbor, the blades are high quality and I like the larger arbor. If they don't have it I purchase it elsewhere and use the 5/8" arbor. I have a dedicated arbor for every blade.

If you plan on getting the blades when Shopsmith has them on sale (or through Lowes demo or the Webinar) with the deals on shipping and arbors the pricing is competitive.

The above does not apply to Dado blades where I strongly prefer the Infinity 6" or 8" Dadonator but because of the cost it is not for everyone.

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Sat Apr 07, 2012 1:50 pm

Nick in one of the Saw Dust sessions mentioned this and I know I was guilty.
He was talking about drills but I think it applies to all tools.

He said we will go buy an $100 drill and then chuck a $0.99 drill bit and cuss the results.

He said it should be the opposite we should buy a cheap drill and use only the very best drill bits.

Think about it you are using a tool that cost $3000 but you want to able to use the $15 dollar harbor freight blades in it. I may be a little extreme here but you get my point.

I do llke PaulMCohen said, if Shopsmith has the blade I'm looking for I buy it if not I buy an equal quality one elsewhere.

So far I have never been disapointed in a Shopsmith blade.

And I'm particular I have bought many other manufactures blades and returned many of them as unsatisfactory.

In one case I brought a jump up whoppy high dollar one made by another manufacture and sold through a wood working store.

It was awful. I made two test cuts in wood one made with a 20 year old SS blade and one with a brand new blade. I took it to the woodworking store where I bought the blade and showed it to the manager. When he saw the difference he didn't say a word just went and got my money.

saminmn · Post by **saminmn** » Sat Apr 07, 2012 3:14 pm

Thanks for suggestions. I am not tryiqng to go cheap particularly. The man I bought from says he uses Frued blades at about $116. I do not know that that is for me now. But I was not sure how to proceed. So the current idea I am hearing sounds like a combination blade from SS.

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Sat Apr 07, 2012 3:54 pm

Look here for the blade and also get an arbor for each one ya buy.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... blades.htm

Arbors here
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... arbors.htm

SDSSmith · Post by **SDSSmith** » Sat Apr 07, 2012 4:09 pm

I have both a 5/8" arbor and a 1-1/4" arbor. This way I can use Shopsmith blades (1-1/4" bore) and other manufacturer's like Freud and Forrest without paying to have them bored out to 1-1/4". With the 5/8" arbor, I can also use blades that I already own for my cabinet saw. I have had good luck with the Freud and Shopsmith blades that I have purchased.

swampgator · Post by **swampgator** » Sat Apr 07, 2012 4:12 pm

Agree with Paul. Sometimes, I will purchase a blade via eBay where I just purchased a Shopsmith 40t carbide hollow ground for $5 plus $8 for shipping. Also, keep an arbor in each blade and you can then change your blades in seconds. And, I prefer the 1 1/4" arbor to the 5/8". Shopsmith blades are reasonable on sale. They do have a 200t blade for plywood which I prefer.

Another tip, if you purchase a used blade that is tinted and gummed up with sap, go the a dollar store and buy a couple of jugs for about $1 each of ammonia. Also, get a plastic bucket or tub big enough to accomodate your blade side. Pour the ammonia in, remove the arbor before inserting the blade and leave the blade overnight. The only downside is that it removes the writing. If you need to have the writing, put it on a piece of paper, then scribe it back onto the blade using a Sharpie. I also use a pure brass brush to clean around the carbide teeth, the gullets and such. Then I put a coat of wax on. You'll be amazed. I do this about twice each year.

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Sat Apr 07, 2012 8:25 pm

If you want a premium saw blade, it's hard to beat a Forrest Woodwork II blade. Another blade you won't be disappointed with is a Ridge TS2000 blade that you can find for about $20 to $25 less expensive than the Forrest. With 40 tooth blades, either will give you clean cross cuts or rips. They come with 5/8" bore, but if you buy one from either factory, you can have one bored to 1 1/4" to fit the Shopsmith spindle. Both companies also resharpen blade, so when they get dull just send them back to Forrest or Ridge Carbide and they'll resharpen them just like new.

2bits · Post by **2bits** » Mon Apr 09, 2012 11:25 pm

If you want to order Shopsmith blades and arbors, they have them on sale now. They are on one of the short sales so be quick about looking:)

saminmn · Post by **saminmn** » Tue Apr 10, 2012 1:55 am

Ordered one this morning and found they were on sale. Thank for heads up though