Power Coupler Repair

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STB
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Power Coupler Repair

Post by STB »

Recently while using the jig saw the power coupler split and a chunk broke out of the side of the coupler I am not sure of the root cause of the failure. But I suspect the coupler was dropped one to many times.

This is my take on repairing the coupler.

[ATTACH]17317[/ATTACH]

First I used super glue with a hose clamp ( borrowed from the washing machine while SWMBO was at the beauty parlor ) to draw the split tight and hold the original shape during the following step.

[ATTACH]17318[/ATTACH]

The next step was to clean all surfaces fine chop some fiberglass cloth
(obtained from a garage sale find auto body repair kit). Wrap a coupler adapter in plastic wrap and insert into the coupler.
I think the plastic wrap idea came from forum member “Shipwright“.

[ATTACH]17319[/ATTACH]

Next was to saturate the chopped cloth with epoxy and fill the void caused by the chip out. This also held the fiberglass cloth that was wrapped around the entire perimeter of the split coupler . Then mixed another dollop of epoxy and saturated the cloth. and slowly rotated the coupler until the epoxy had set up to the point it no longer flowed. Before the epoxy set up completely I trimmed the excess, smoothed and cleaned the messy spots.

[ATTACH]17320[/ATTACH]

The final step was to replace the hose clamp before SHMBO returned.
Fingers crossed so far it has worked fine. Used it on both the band saw and jointer.
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Glenn
I create problem solving challenges and opportunities for design modification, not mistakes.

SS 520 born 04/16/03, Power Station mounted Band saw , Scroll saw, Jointer, Belt sander, Overarm router, dedicated Mark V drill press, SS Maxi-clamp system, Shopsmith woodworking bench
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

I like the thinking, but I would add a few more layers.:)
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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STB
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More layers

Post by STB »

JPG40504 wrote:I like the thinking, but I would add a few more layers.:)
The inital fix was to use the hose clamp only. This created an out of balance vibration at high speeds (jointer). I did not want to replicate the out of balance condition by adding additional layers.
I guess coupler longevity will be the final answer.
Glenn
I create problem solving challenges and opportunities for design modification, not mistakes.

SS 520 born 04/16/03, Power Station mounted Band saw , Scroll saw, Jointer, Belt sander, Overarm router, dedicated Mark V drill press, SS Maxi-clamp system, Shopsmith woodworking bench
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

stumpbuster wrote:The inital fix was to use the hose clamp only. This created an out of balance vibration at high speeds (jointer). I did not want to replicate the out of balance condition by adding additional layers.
I guess coupler longevity will be the final answer.
I can understand a hose clamp would be imbalanced. I do not think extra fiberglassing would be nearly so.
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

stumpbuster wrote: This created an out of balance vibration at high speeds (jointer). I did not want to replicate the out of balance condition by adding additional layers.

Use another hose clamp on the other end, with the screw part staggered from the other one.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
.
.

Bob
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

beeg wrote:Use another hose clamp on the other end, with the screw part staggered from the other one.

That way if one doesn't snag you the other might!:D

Do be extra cautious!!!:eek:
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Post by Fla_Jim »

beeg wrote:Use another hose clamp on the other end, with the screw part staggered from the other one.
At high speeds (jointer), that would cause a dynamic inbalance, with the ends out of balance 180 degrees from each other.
The unbalance would increase, rather cancel
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fjimp
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Post by fjimp »

Although I have never broken a coupler, viewing the repair efforts makes me thankful I have managed to purchase a hand full of extras. Tis true I am hoarding them. Jim
F. Jim Parks
Lakewood, Colorado:)

When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
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Post by joedw00 »

The best part is you saved yourself $$$ 503574 Shopsmith Power Coupler (Coupler Only) ... $21.49
Joe

520, Bandsaw, Beltsander, Delta Drill Press, Delta Lathe, Craftsman Planner/Jointer, Delta Planner, Mini "Greenie" Shorty 500

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dusty
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Post by dusty »

stumpbuster wrote:Recently while using the jig saw the power coupler split and a chunk broke out of the side of the coupler I am not sure of the root cause of the failure. But I suspect the coupler was dropped one to many times.

This is my take on repairing the coupler.

[ATTACH]17317[/ATTACH]

First I used super glue with a hose clamp ( borrowed from the washing machine while SWMBO was at the beauty parlor ) to draw the split tight and hold the original shape during the following step.

[ATTACH]17318[/ATTACH]

The next step was to clean all surfaces fine chop some fiberglass cloth
(obtained from a garage sale find auto body repair kit). Wrap a coupler adapter in plastic wrap and insert into the coupler.
I think the plastic wrap idea came from forum member &#8220]17319[/ATTACH]

Next was to saturate the chopped cloth with epoxy and fill the void caused by the chip out. This also held the fiberglass cloth that was wrapped around the entire perimeter of the split coupler . Then mixed another dollop of epoxy and saturated the cloth. and slowly rotated the coupler until the epoxy had set up to the point it no longer flowed. Before the epoxy set up completely I trimmed the excess, smoothed and cleaned the messy spots.

[ATTACH]17320[/ATTACH]

The final step was to replace the hose clamp before SHMBO returned.
Fingers crossed so far it has worked fine. Used it on both the band saw and jointer.

Based on my own experience, I predict that the coupler you have rebuilt will last many years.

I have one that is cracked, no broken missing pieces. I broke it trying to remove it from the jointer. I simply reinstalled the broken coupler and wrapped the end with a piece of duct tape. Got two or three good wraps. Been that way for at least a year.

I have three new ones but like Jim - I am hoarding those.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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